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about to get driveshaft made.
running a currie 9+ which i wish it had come with the bigger 1350 yoke but think it was made to direct swap in to mustang so i guess i will leave it and use the 1330 joint at least its the 1.125 not the smaller.
I have a sonnax chrome moly trans yoke with the 1350 solid u ujoint.
thoughts on steel versus aluminum ?
Steel is plenty strong and will cost about $350 to have made. The aluminum will be closer to $600 and already have $150 in my chrome moly yoke. Aluminum would look awesome and save a few lbs Not sure its any stronger though.
What would you guys recommend ?
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I used an aluminum driveshaft from a 98 2wd Explorer. I had it shortened to fit between the yoke on my 4R70W and the 9 inch Trak-Lok rear that I have. Much cheaper than having one made.
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1fststang wrote:
about to get driveshaft made.
running a currie 9+ which i wish it had come with the bigger 1350 yoke but think it was made to direct swap in to mustang so i guess i will leave it and use the 1330 joint at least its the 1.125 not the smaller.
I have a sonnax chrome moly trans yoke with the 1350 solid u ujoint.
thoughts on steel versus aluminum ?
Steel is plenty strong and will cost about $350 to have made. The aluminum will be closer to $600 and already have $150 in my chrome moly yoke. Aluminum would look awesome and save a few lbs Not sure its any stronger though.
What would you guys recommend ?
It might look awesome but you are probably the only one who sees it, you will have to decide if that’s worth $250
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Pounds add up. I went aluminum- with Sonnax parts. I don’t think you can make a wrong choice though.
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My 2wd Explorer shaft has held up fine with 393 cubes.
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I have hear of a few people using explorer driveshafts with good luck. Thought about checking in to it.
I'm running some big power but only a 275 tire on rear so not a ton of traction
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I broke my aluminum shaft. Went back to steel. Can’t tell the difference from inside the car.
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AS FAR AS I CAN TELL I HAVE THE ORIGINAL SHAFT IN MINE.
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Over the years I've researched this pretty thoroughly. In terms of a performance advantage its going to be too small to notice.
Aluminum, at least in theory, has a higher critical speed than steel and should damp vibrations better. That has not been my experience ion practice though. I've replaced factory aluminum shafts with steel a couple times and the vehicle had less vibration after the swap. Possibly the factory shaft balance was off due to age, etc.
I have a good local shop that builds driveshafts, but they only work with steel, so every shaft I've had made locally has always been steel and I've always been quite happy with them. I think in the end, like most things, it comes down to the guy making the shaft, not the material.
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I too have an Explorer aluminum shaft that I grabbed when I picked the Rear end. I had it cut and rebalanced and seems to be fine. But I do have a vibration at 90 mph plus. Aluminum will be bigger diameter, typically not an issue but could impact exhaust routing. If I ever do something different I will go back to steel.
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I ended up with steel because the aluminum design was so big and took room I needed for exhaust so I could lower the car more.
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I wonder how much carbon fibre ones cost, prolly need a second mortgage.
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Rudi wrote:
I wonder how much carbon fibre ones cost, prolly need a second mortgage.
Pretty sure they start at a grand for street car length. But not even MS could break one.
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Bearing Bob wrote:
Rudi wrote:
I wonder how much carbon fibre ones cost, prolly need a second mortgage.
Pretty sure they start at a grand for street car length. But not even MS could break one.
Yep, a grand is entry level. Really the only reason to run one is ultra competitive racing, not so much for power, but because when they fail they disintegrate, unlike a metal shaft that does all kinds of damage and could potentially kill you.
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well finally pulled the trigger on my driveshaft.
having a new one mad in steel using my chrome moly trans yoke.
ultimately strength is what is most important to me and the fact it's considerably cheaper is a plus.
local shop putting it together and they give a lifetime warranty
using Spicer solid/non-greaasable ujoints for strengh.
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