FYI FORD - MustangSteve's Ford Mustang Forum
The Internet's Most Knowledgeable Classic Mustang Information
IF YOU HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT CLASSIC FORD MUSTANGS, YOU HAVE COME TO THE RIGHT PLACE!
MustangSteve has over 30 years of Mustang experience, having owned 30 of them and restored several others. With the help of other Mustangers, this site is dedicated to helping anyone wanting to restore or modify their Mustang.... THERE ARE NO DUMB QUESTIONS!!!!!
Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for:
FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events

You are not logged in. Would you like to login or register?

8/26/2020 3:06 PM  #1


driveshaft aluminum versus steel

about to get driveshaft made.

running a currie 9+ which i wish it had come with the bigger 1350 yoke but think it was made to direct swap in to mustang so i guess i will leave it and use the 1330 joint at least its the 1.125 not the smaller.

I have a sonnax chrome moly trans yoke with the 1350 solid u ujoint.

thoughts on steel versus aluminum ?

Steel is plenty strong and will cost about $350 to have made. The aluminum will be closer to $600 and already have $150 in my chrome moly yoke.  Aluminum would look awesome and save a few lbs Not sure its any stronger though.

What would you guys recommend ?
 

 

8/26/2020 4:22 PM  #2


Re: driveshaft aluminum versus steel

I used an aluminum driveshaft from a 98 2wd Explorer. I had it shortened to fit between the yoke on my 4R70W and the 9 inch Trak-Lok rear that I have. Much cheaper than having one made.


68 coupe - 351W, 4R70W, 9" 3.25 -- 65 convertible - 289 4v, C4, 8" 3.00
 

8/26/2020 4:56 PM  #3


Re: driveshaft aluminum versus steel

1fststang wrote:

about to get driveshaft made.

running a currie 9+ which i wish it had come with the bigger 1350 yoke but think it was made to direct swap in to mustang so i guess i will leave it and use the 1330 joint at least its the 1.125 not the smaller.

I have a sonnax chrome moly trans yoke with the 1350 solid u ujoint.

thoughts on steel versus aluminum ?

Steel is plenty strong and will cost about $350 to have made. The aluminum will be closer to $600 and already have $150 in my chrome moly yoke.  Aluminum would look awesome and save a few lbs Not sure its any stronger though.

What would you guys recommend ?
 

 
It might look awesome but you are probably the only one who sees it, you will have to decide  if that’s worth $250


Good work ain't cheap, Cheap work ain't good!   Simple Man
 

8/26/2020 5:33 PM  #4


Re: driveshaft aluminum versus steel

Pounds add up.  I went aluminum- with Sonnax parts.  I don’t think you can make a wrong choice though.

 

8/26/2020 6:34 PM  #5


Re: driveshaft aluminum versus steel

My 2wd Explorer shaft has held up fine with 393 cubes.


Bob. 69 Mach 1, 393W, SMOD Toploader, Armstrong  steering, factory AC.
 

8/26/2020 7:50 PM  #6


Re: driveshaft aluminum versus steel

I have hear of a few people using explorer driveshafts with good luck.  Thought about checking in to it.

I'm running some big power but only a 275 tire on rear so not a ton of traction

     Thread Starter
 

8/26/2020 8:39 PM  #7


Re: driveshaft aluminum versus steel

I broke my aluminum shaft.  Went back to steel.  Can’t tell the difference from inside the car.


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 

8/26/2020 8:50 PM  #8


Re: driveshaft aluminum versus steel

AS FAR AS I CAN TELL I HAVE THE ORIGINAL SHAFT IN MINE.


Its really me....I fixed my caps lock .
 

8/27/2020 4:50 AM  #9


Re: driveshaft aluminum versus steel

Over the years I've researched this pretty thoroughly.  In terms of a performance advantage its going to be too small to notice. 

Aluminum, at least in theory, has a higher critical speed than steel and should damp vibrations better.  That has not been my experience ion practice though.  I've replaced factory aluminum shafts with steel a couple times and the vehicle had less vibration after the swap.  Possibly the factory shaft balance was off due to age, etc.

I have a good local shop that builds driveshafts, but they only work with steel, so every shaft I've had made locally has always been steel and I've always been quite happy with them.  I think in the end, like most things, it comes down to the guy making the shaft, not the material. 

 

8/27/2020 6:41 AM  #10


Re: driveshaft aluminum versus steel

I too have an Explorer aluminum shaft that I grabbed when I picked the Rear end. I had it cut and rebalanced and seems to be fine. But I do have a vibration at 90 mph plus. Aluminum will be bigger diameter, typically not an issue but could impact exhaust routing. If I ever do something different I will go back to steel.

 

8/27/2020 7:03 AM  #11


Re: driveshaft aluminum versus steel

I ended up with steel because the aluminum design was so big and took room I needed for exhaust so I could lower the car more.

 

8/27/2020 7:59 AM  #12


Re: driveshaft aluminum versus steel

I wonder how much carbon fibre ones cost, prolly need a second mortgage.


Good work ain't cheap, Cheap work ain't good!   Simple Man
 

8/28/2020 12:26 AM  #13


Re: driveshaft aluminum versus steel

Rudi wrote:

I wonder how much carbon fibre ones cost, prolly need a second mortgage.

Pretty sure they start at a grand for street car length. But not even MS could break one.


Bob. 69 Mach 1, 393W, SMOD Toploader, Armstrong  steering, factory AC.
 

8/28/2020 5:23 AM  #14


Re: driveshaft aluminum versus steel

Bearing Bob wrote:

Rudi wrote:

I wonder how much carbon fibre ones cost, prolly need a second mortgage.

Pretty sure they start at a grand for street car length. But not even MS could break one.

Yep, a grand is entry level.  Really the only reason to run one is ultra competitive racing, not so much for power, but because when they fail they disintegrate, unlike a metal shaft that does all kinds of damage and could potentially kill you. 
 

 

8/28/2020 9:34 AM  #15


Re: driveshaft aluminum versus steel

well finally pulled the trigger on my driveshaft.

having a new one mad in steel using my chrome moly trans yoke.

ultimately strength is what is most important to me and the fact it's considerably cheaper is a plus.

local shop putting it together and they give a lifetime warranty

using Spicer solid/non-greaasable ujoints for strengh.

     Thread Starter
 

Board footera


REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on.