Mike,

I use non-insulated butt splices and crimp/solder them.  I know that in situations where the harness or splice will be expected to withstand a lot of flexing this is not a good idea as the solder will make the wire at the splice inflexible and it will easily break.   However, that doesn't seem to be a problem with most automobile applications and so far (fifteen years) I've had no issues with this practice in the Heap or the Falcon Project or the '94 harness in Barry's '65 vert down in OZ.  I always cover these splices with adhesive lined heat shrink tube which extends well past the splice itself and I'm sure this helps prevent flexing of any soldered wire.

Just sayin'.

JamesW wrote:

I soldered all my splices/connectors and all I can tell you is that I've yet to have a failure due to the soldered connection after 15 years since doing the mod.
 

There ya go.....

I tend to solder everything, or use Solder Seal terminals which contain solder and shrink tubing and can be installed with just a heat gun.  The local NAPA carries them.  I've never had a failure of either.  I think what you've heard about not soldering comes from a concern about the lack of flexibility to connection creates and possible wire embrittlement from the heat.  If I need flexibility I just solder in a spot where the wires don't need to flex, and I think you would have to use WAY too much heat soldering to adversely effect the wire. 

I will say this about locating the air intake, if the filter is in the engine bay an unprotected open element filter is a bad idea.  The 5.0s used an airbox for a reason.  The filter can pick up eddy currents in the air generated by the engine fan.  This tricks the MAF into thinking the air entering the engine is fluctuating, and can lead to an unstable idle.  This took me several years to figure out.  We used to just think that the unstable idle was due to the car being modified.  Then we shielded the first air filter and the idle immediately improved and we all felt like dumb@$$es.  On a 5.0 I would always run a fenderwell CAI.  I'm using an Anderson one of my '89 GT. 

Hearing about your trans swap I would want to go through all that and make sure it was done correctly.  Manual and automatic 5.0s ran different ECUs with different BINs.  Part of this was due to the differences in idle characteristics between an engine that freewheels completely at idle and one that has some parasitic drag from a torque converter/trans pump.  On the up side the automatics tended to have a bit more aggressive fuel and spark curves to try and equalize performance with the manual trans cars. 

TKOPerformance wrote:

I will say this about locating the air intake, if the filter is in the engine bay an unprotected open element filter is a bad idea.  The 5.0s used an airbox for a reason.  The filter can pick up eddy currents in the air generated by the engine fan.  This tricks the MAF into thinking the air entering the engine is fluctuating, and can lead to an unstable idle.  This took me several years to figure out.  We used to just think that the unstable idle was due to the car being modified.  Then we shielded the first air filter and the idle immediately improved and we all felt like dumb@$$es.  On a 5.0 I would always run a fenderwell CAI.  I'm using an Anderson one of my '89 GT.  

 
I had a very similar experience.  Thought I’d build me a cold air box and draw air through a small grill I’d cut in the core support.  Turns out this forced air played havoc with my MAF and the engine would sputter and backfire after I’d get going fast enough to get some air pressure going.  I ended up blocking off about 95% of the air entering through the grill.


image uploader online

TKOPerformance wrote:

I tend to solder everything, or use Solder Seal terminals which contain solder and shrink tubing and can be installed with just a heat gun.  The local NAPA carries them.  I've never had a failure of either.  I think what you've heard about not soldering comes from a concern about the lack of flexibility to connection creates and possible wire embrittlement from the heat.  If I need flexibility I just solder in a spot where the wires don't need to flex, and I think you would have to use WAY too much heat soldering to adversely effect the wire. 

I will say this about locating the air intake, if the filter is in the engine bay an unprotected open element filter is a bad idea.  The 5.0s used an airbox for a reason.  The filter can pick up eddy currents in the air generated by the engine fan.  This tricks the MAF into thinking the air entering the engine is fluctuating, and can lead to an unstable idle.  This took me several years to figure out.  We used to just think that the unstable idle was due to the car being modified.  Then we shielded the first air filter and the idle immediately improved and we all felt like dumb@$$es.  On a 5.0 I would always run a fenderwell CAI.  I'm using an Anderson one of my '89 GT. 

Hearing about your trans swap I would want to go through all that and make sure it was done correctly.  Manual and automatic 5.0s ran different ECUs with different BINs.  Part of this was due to the differences in idle characteristics between an engine that freewheels completely at idle and one that has some parasitic drag from a torque converter/trans pump.  On the up side the automatics tended to have a bit more aggressive fuel and spark curves to try and equalize performance with the manual trans cars. 

These are all great points! I solder and heat shrink everything.  I just don't care for the butt connectors.

Second point you made:  The straight tube between the air cleaner and the MAS was non-existent so i fabbed a temporary straight tube about 12 inches long from some aluminum flat flashing i had sitting around.  I JUST got it clamped together, so fingers crossed it helps the surging issue...Thank you!  Ill let you know if it works.

...and the last point about the ECU:  Ross did the research on that and determined that we could not use the original ecu because we swapped the transmission to manual and ordered the one we are using now.  He was in charge of that so I asked him for the details and he sent me the following:  We have a 1992 ECU for a 302HO with a T5. 
 

Soldering input - a good mechanical connection and proper insulation stripping are very important to making good, durable solder splices.  Wire strip tools must not nick the wires when removing insulation.  Nicks weaken the wires and they are more inclined to break.  

After stripping, use a lineman's splice to ensure a solid mechanical connection between the joined ends (there's a good YouTube video showing how to do those at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SJK2BTIlULQ).  Once you've done those things, solder and cover with heat shrink or other insulating material to prevent shorts.

JamesW wrote:

TKOPerformance wrote:

I will say this about locating the air intake, if the filter is in the engine bay an unprotected open element filter is a bad idea.  The 5.0s used an airbox for a reason.  The filter can pick up eddy currents in the air generated by the engine fan.  This tricks the MAF into thinking the air entering the engine is fluctuating, and can lead to an unstable idle.  This took me several years to figure out.  We used to just think that the unstable idle was due to the car being modified.  Then we shielded the first air filter and the idle immediately improved and we all felt like dumb@$$es.  On a 5.0 I would always run a fenderwell CAI.  I'm using an Anderson one of my '89 GT.  

 
I had a very similar experience. Thought I’d build me a cold air box and draw air through a small grill I’d cut in the core support. Turns out this forced air played havoc with my MAF and the engine would sputter and backfire after I’d get going fast enough to get some air pressure going. I ended up blocking off about 95% of the air entering through the grill.


image uploader online

Yep, that's why the "calibrated" MAFs the better companies sell will specify if they are for a car with a CAI or without.  Its an acknowledgement that CAIs can cause an issue with tuning, but I'm going to tell you "calibrated" MAFs are BS.  If you really want it right you need to be able to alter the MAF transfer function in the ECU.  The problem with the "calibrated" MAFs is they don't scale right because they try to trick the ECU instead of modifying its function with proper scaling.  In a pinch they work, and are better than nothing, but learning to tune is a much better approach. 

Also, nice looking airbox setup!
 

Last edited by TKOPerformance (10/16/2020 5:22 PM)

Well, I am here to update you on the wiring.  I got tons of information from Bullet Bob complete with personalized wiring diagrams, samples and lessons galore!  I went from knowing zero to installing a new fuse/relay panel and finally starting the car a couple of days ago thanks to some info y'all supplied and special super duper thank you to Bullet Bob for his help!  Bob, I couldn't have done it without you! 

The engine compartment wiring is pretty well done except for wire loom.  I still have headlight relays so I will wait to button it all up.  

Thank you all for your help! 

Deb, don’t forget the BASH is May 22 in Royce City.  Hope to see you there!

You definitely had the best help there is. When Bullet Bob sniffs electrical trouble, it is sure to get sorted out real quick.