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I wounder if you made the strut mount threaded instead of the bolt to the LCA bracket it would also become a ridge mount and wouldn't be able to pivot, or just do away with the bolt and make the bracket part of the rod.
Just mine 2 cents. I love the degine and wish I had the place to do that stuff still. Thats how I gave my 2 wheel drive C10 a 6" lift. Just by re inventing the wheel.
Last edited by Cab4word67 (5/16/2020 9:59 AM)
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Vkt-66 wrote:
DAZE
Following your post & build about LCA .. LOOKS GREAT !!
I have a question ?
With the adjustable LCA & adjustment in strut arm ..
the only adjustment the UCA will be used for is toe in - out minimal amount of shims
so all caster and camber are on lower control arm right !
much easier to access adjust
Great idea !!
As Bob said the strut rod adjustment is for caster and the LCA adjustment is for camber. Toe is set by lengthoning or shortening the tie rods. In my case I will probably shim the UCA to get a rough camber setting and then use the LCA for fine adjustment.
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Cab4word67 wrote:
I wonder if you made the strut mount threaded instead of the bolt to the LCA bracket it would also become a ridge mount and wouldn't be able to pivot, or just do away with the bolt and make the bracket part of the rod.
Just mine 2 cents. I love the design and wish I had the place to do that stuff still. Thats how I gave my 2 wheel drive C10 a 6" lift. Just by re inventing the wheel.
It would be stronger if the mount was rigid however it is more functional if the joint can pivot during alignment. When you shorten or lengthen the strut rod you are, in effect, changing the length of one side of a triangle (LCA mount to strut rod frame mount to LCA/strut rod mount) while the other two lengths stay the same, and if you do that all three angles of the triangle must change. The joints at the the LCA mount and the adjustable strut rod can absorb some of the change without the strut rod to LCA connection changing however the more adjustment you make without the LCA to strut rod connection changing the more the other two will bind. This is potentially exacerbated by the fact that my LCA is now also adjustable. When I align the car I will loosen the LCA to strut rod connection point so that it pivots freely but is not sloppy, then after the car is fully aligned I will torque it down so that it can no longer move. Make sense?
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Daze wrote:
From there I took a couple of weld in ball joint sleeves and chucked them up in my lathe to cut them down and create a lip. It looks like more in the picture but I only removed about .030"
I then stripped the LCAs of the ball joints and enlarged the hole to except the ball joint sleeve.
Curiosity questions - what sleeves did you use and what ball joints are you planning to use? TIA
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John Ha wrote:
Curiosity questions - what sleeves did you use and what ball joints are you planning to use? TIA
Both AFCO parts
The ball joint is a 20034 The sleeve is a 20043
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Daze wrote:
Both AFCO parts The ball joint is a 20034 The sleeve is a 20043
Thanks Day!
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Daze wrote:
working on adjustable LCA 2.0
Finally getting back to this project... again
I welded up the relief cuts and smoothed them out and then welded in a threaded insert using my fixture. I created a support/spacer for the inside end. The threaded sleeve is welded on both ends as well as rosette welded in two spots through the top. The support/spacer also serves as an opening/attachment location for the sway bar link. This LCA will be boxed in with 14 awg sheet steel so I need that access. I also machined and welded on stand off bushings for the mounting holes.
From there I made a cardboard template
The template was transferred to the sheet steel and I used a couple different size hole saws to drill out the holes on either end.
Once I had the plate fitting inside the LCA I drilled the mounting holes and bent the plate to get the fit just the way I wanted it. I still need to weld it in but thats a project for another day.
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Great Idea.
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Looking good Day!
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Got them welded up yesterday. My welds are not what I would call pretty, but they are not ugly either. They have good penetration and will do the job and thats really all that matters. I will clean some of them up a little bit but I will not totally smooth out any of them as I don't want to compromise their strength. Then after a final mockup it's off to powder coating.
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