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FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Sometimes it’s the simple things… (66-Suspension Knocking) » 10/26/2023 1:03 PM

Ramses
Replies: 12

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Sharing this for laughs and to always look for the simple things first.

Been chasing a knocking sound that kept me from taking my 66 to the Bash this year (I swear that was it!)

Couldn’t pin point what it was exactly, shared with MS via phone, got under the car, literally everything. 100% coming from the passengers side. Had previously replaced all front suspension so I started working backwards from everything I had changed out. I suspected sway bar since there was signs of sway bar/frame contact. Replaced it, still knocking. Walked away from it for a week- came back- checked the lug nuts…..It was the Godforsaken lug nuts…. THE LUG NUTS!!!

The kind that aren’t one piece and have a sleeve on them. 3 of the 5 were essentially just hand tight and turning the sleeve when using the impact wrench and never fully tightening.

Am I that out of shape in working on my car? At this rate I’m gonna have to take a drive to Canyon Lake every weekend and let MS get me properly in shape again! Like the good o’l Ovilla, high school days when I learned some valuable lessons, especially the pain that alcohol pads make you experience on a fully open wound(Thanks Steve😭)

Anyways, chase the simple things first before tearing apart your entire car!

 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » The 2023 BASH was awesome.. » 10/01/2023 7:12 PM

Ramses
Replies: 0

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Although I only managed to come up Saturday, it sure as heck made me miss interacting with a bunch of you guys/gals that have my like interest. It’s easy to let life and work take over and you end up missing out on all the great things in life. Time ain’t slowing down either, so have to make the most out of it. Thanks to all of those that still remembered who I was as well! I figured no one probably remembered me since I fly under the radar a bit and y’all probably thought I got abducted by aliens or something😂. Loved every moment of it, sincerely did.

Motivated me to get more active on here, and I promise I still have my 66!! She’s just a bit shy and gives me problems when it’s showtime. Great seeing all of you again, and I hope everyone made it home safe! Talk to you all real soon, lots of updates on my cars and stuff in the works😎.
theognis

Swap Meet » 2015-2018 Mustang Seats » 12/20/2022 4:07 PM

Ramses
Replies: 0

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Selling a pair of new take off seats. Have had them sitting in storage and never used them. Planned to put them in my 68 mustang but going a different route with different seats.

$400 the pair.

Pick up in Dallas.

Swap Meet » 4 Autolite 1100 carburetors (Single barrel) » 11/22/2021 3:22 PM

Ramses
Replies: 3

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$50 (Manual choke)
$75 (Automatic choke)
$200 for the original Remanufactured Ford
Plus shipping of course

Swap Meet » 4 Autolite 1100 carburetors (Single barrel) » 11/21/2021 5:38 PM

Ramses
Replies: 3

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2 manual choke and 2 automatic choke.
One is an original, never installed or used Ford remanufactured carb.
These would make nice little rebuilds.
Selling individually or as a lot, reasonable offers considered.







FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » T5 world class G force what to pick » 7/01/2020 10:21 PM

Ramses
Replies: 19

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Mach173 wrote:

almcgee wrote:

Contact Glen Buzik.  He knows what is going on with a T5 and what to do to beef it up to bullet proof.

Im in sweden so Il probably rebuild it my self. Thanks for info :-)

I just rebuilt two of my T5’s, never had done one before was always terrified. In the end, it was the most enjoyment I’ve had in a very long time. Not hard to rebuild at all. Go for it!

I went by the book:
“How to Rebuild and Modify High-Performance Manual Transmissions”
by Paul Cangialosi

He’s also got a ton of how-to videos on YouTube

https://youtu.be/PxYwNxCzguE

Swap Meet » Performer RPM » 6/29/2020 3:48 PM

Ramses
Replies: 5

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Sent you a PM!

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Been too long..but im back- 1970 Mustang for a friend » 11/04/2019 12:48 PM

Ramses
Replies: 10

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Been a while since I last posted, seems like forever, but im still around, doing what I do that makes me happy and keeps me entertained. Brief story of what you are about to see below- A good friend of mine purchased this car with the intention of restoring it for his son. Limited to his personal skill and craft, this car was BEYOND repair, but it was doable, with motivation and setting a goal. So I stepped in...

The pictures do not do justice to what all had to be done on this car, but literally every thing that was metal on the car was rusted and needed to be replaced, with the exception of the roof, which required minimal work. Ill admit, I nearly felt like giving up on this project many, many, MANY times! But when you commit to something, you got to stick to your guns. This is my "second" paint job I did out of my garage. My first was my own 66 coupe. This one turned out even better.

I took on this job to not only help a friend, but to hopefully encourage someone to keep the passion of these cars going which makes us get in the garage every day, get our hands dirty, and have nothing but fun. 

I think he and his son will be beyond happy at the outcome. Will reveal the car this weekend after it is assembled, buffed out and polished.

Next up, 68 Coupe..

imageupload

Swap Meet » WTB: 1966 Mustang Driver Door » 12/20/2017 5:15 PM

Ramses
Replies: 0

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Looking for a good 66 Mustang Driver Door in the Dallas area. Can be just the shell don't really need the internals. Shoot me a message if you have one willing to sale!

Show Your Mustang Pictures and History » The MS 68 Coupe » 9/20/2017 9:44 PM

Ramses
Replies: 11

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Taillights upgraded to LED:

From this:


To this:

Tips and How-To's » "How to"- Install 67-68 Mustang LED Tailights » 9/20/2017 9:41 PM

Ramses
Replies: 0

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How to add LED Taillights (Non-Sequential) for your 67-68 mustang. This can also be done with other years so long as you get the correct kits from CJ Pony.

Single bulb just doesn't look right. Also, it does not evenly distribute or illuminate your taillights that well:

CJ Pony Parts: 
CJ's Part Number: =TLLED13 (2 needed)

LED panel goes straight to your taillight connector without issue or modification:

Remove taillight housing screws from the rear:

Once screws are removed, you can pull out taillight bezels. Push on the lens inward to break sense loose from the taillight panel.

If in bad shape, now is a great time to replace your lens gasket:


Remove 6 screws holding sense in place to prep for the new lens installation:


One lens is installed and gaskets have been replaced if needed, connect LED connector to taillight socket:

Installation of the housing is processed in reverse order as above. For this kit, you will need to replace your flasher with this special LED flasher specific to these taillights. CJ's Part Number: =12pxHW2811:

Locate original flasher under the dash, remove and re

Swap Meet » 5.0 HO EFI parts- Best offer » 9/10/2017 3:58 PM

Ramses
Replies: 0

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89 Lincoln Mark VII 5.0 HO EFI parts:
Upper/Lower Intake
Throttle Body
Fuel rails, injectors, and harness

Make me an offer. Prefer to not ship and deal locally, but if really needing, may work something out.

Show Your Mustang Pictures and History » The MS 68 Coupe » 7/25/2017 6:23 PM

Ramses
Replies: 11

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MS wrote:

Final update.
Sold the car to Ramses. I am sure he will take it to a very high level.

Gonna get right into it and keep this thread alive by posting updates!
 

Paint & Body » Recommendations for a beginner. » 11/22/2016 5:53 PM

Ramses
Replies: 20

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Michael,

Sounds like you are about to do some fun stuff! From a first timers point of view, I would do it this way:

1)Sand hood to bare metal(that way the primer has a solid base to grip to)
2)Follow up cleaning the bare metal with a paper towel and some PPG Cleaner, when dry, follow through with a tack rag to get rid of any paper towel particles,etc.
3) Shoot some high build primer overlapping every half way to get good coverage. Let dry, block/wet sand with 400-600 grit. Darker spots will be low spots, bare metal-high. Shoot another coat of primer, sand with 800-1000 grit. Get a block to sand, using your hand will leave striations because of uneven fingers, unless you want to let your car look like it has tiger stripes under the paint.
4)Clean and prep
5)Mist the first coat of paint about 1 1/2 ft high from the panel.(adjust gun if shooting too heavy)
6) Follow up with a heavier coat until full coverage. let cure and dry(different paints have different cure times).
7) once dry, wet sand with 1000 grit to get rid of imperfections(bugs, dog hair, your hair, etc)
8)Follow up with shooting clear. Same concept from above, mist, and every coat get heavier. Main thing, move your arm as you are layering or you WILL get runs. 
9) When I did my car, I shot 3 coats of clear, wet sanding in between each coat. Doing so gave the finish more depth(maybe an aesthetic thing, but it certainly looks that way to me).
10) Once fully cured and dry. Wet sand one final time with 1000-1200 grit. At this stage, once the wet sanding is done and all the milky white clear residue is cleaned off, you should be able to see a pretty sheen and gloss on the panel.
11) Bring out the buffer, 3M Rubbing compound (Yellow Bottle), follow up with Polishing compound(Black or Purple bottle)
12)Done

Now this is just one of hundreds of ways to do it and others may have different opinions towards my approach, but it worked for me. 

I used:
PPG Self-etching primer
PPG High Build Primer
Urekem Jalapeno R

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Ramses installs new rear end in his car, nearly loses his own » 6/06/2016 10:48 PM

Ramses
Replies: 26

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Update:

So I went to the doctor and was given the news that I only severely pulled a lower back muscle on my right side. No herniated disc so that is good! Doc says most likely resulted when I picked up the 9",laid down, and contorted my body in a weird way while lying under the car. Bending down and straightening my back caused me to pull it bad. 

Now that I think about it, I picked up that housing with horrible form. Ive been to "Lifting Heavy Objects Squat Class 101" taught by steve before, but I just forgot to squat and bent down just using my waist (like a donkey)

Doc says I should be 100% within a couple of weeks. Brought home some muscle relaxers so I will be on cloud 9 here shortly.

Thanks for all the support guys, y'all really encouraged me and uplifted my spirits.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Ramses installs new rear end in his car, nearly loses his own » 6/05/2016 1:03 PM

Ramses
Replies: 26

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Thanks for the encouragement you guys, I really appreciate it. Im sure this will pass, just sucks how all of a sudden you become disabled because of one dumb movement you did. Feels like its muscular but I am not 100% sure yet as I haven't been able to stand upright to go to the doctor to see what it is. I am up and walking a bit now but the slightest bend of my back, forward or back, knocks me down to my knees. I can't even get into the car without dying of pain. Its like a cramp that hits me as soon as I move a bit. Anyone have a sledge hammer? Maybe that will fix it.

Thanks again, will keep y'all updated.

-Ramses

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Drip rail dilemma » 4/02/2015 9:47 PM

Ramses
Replies: 9

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Keep it simple, Just like steve said:
 
1)Go to the steel section at home depot
2) Buy a piece of steel angle(like a $1.25) that has the width of the drip rail, thickness may most likely be thicker and flat(Can grind it down and round it out to its shape once its welded)
3) Measure, mark, and cut how much you want to put on there.
4)Weld,grind to its shape, Done

Swap Meet » Cobra/Mach 1 Style Calipers(New) and Rotors » 3/18/2015 3:53 PM

Ramses
Replies: 0

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Perfect if wanting to upgrade to 13" Brakes as MS offers the retrofit kit that will make these work on your car. Will require a bigger wheel of course. Throwing in some rotors that I am no longer using as well. They can still be turned.

Email if interested: Ramses@mustangsteve.com



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