| ||
Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for: FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events |
1 of 1
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Dented frame rails » 1/15/2021 9:17 PM |
I've picked up a set of sub-frame connectors from Street or Track as I'm going to be using their 3 bar rear suspension and they include the mounting point for the longer, lower control arms already installed.
I figured I'd open the floor, hammer things flat then weld in a nice hunk of steel in the bottom of the frame rail so that when the car gets lifted there again, it won't deform.
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Dented frame rails » 1/14/2021 11:27 PM |
The front frame rails on my 67 fastback look like someone (maybe me) has been using them as the lift point for a jack for the last 54 years.
I've got some sub-frame connectors to install so now is the time to undo the damage.
My first thought is to cut an access strip from above and use a piece of square stock to pound them back into shape.
That way I can use a hammer and dolly to clean up my work and make them look pretty good.
Then I'd weld in a thicker gauge steel on the top to make the whole area stronger than it was to begin with.
I assume that if I used a stud puller, I'll end up with a very uneven surface as I'll end up hammering the high spots back down after creating hundreds of metal zits.
Short of welding in all new frame rails or cladding them with flat metal, does anyone have a better idea?
Thanks in advance for your ideas.
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Spintech Subframe connectors » 8/24/2020 2:14 PM |
That looks wonderful but there's no way I could achieve that level of quality if I did it myself.
That would be the project that ultimately took the car off the road permanently unless someone else completed the job.
I replaced the floors myself 20 years ago and I put them back into the stock location so I assume that these will work but may require a bit of trimming or massaging.
Capping the frame stubs with this system seems like something I could do though.
Thanks for the input.
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Woodgrain steering wheel horn issue » 8/23/2020 9:08 PM |
Well, the entire car was rewired with an American Autowire classic Mustang upgrade kit.
I wonder if they didn't reverse the two wires to the horn.
Which wire should be hot and which is the return/ground?
If they were reversed, the body would be "hot" and the expected hot wire would come into contact with the ground side of the steering wheel.
Could someone tell me which of those wires should be positive?
The one at the top of the column or bottom?
Thanks in advance.
GH
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Spintech Subframe connectors » 8/23/2020 2:30 PM |
Has anyone tried the Spintech Subframe connectors?
I have a 67 Fastback so no convertible fitment issues would apply.
I like that they slip over my existing front frame stubs as mine look like they've had a hard life.
I wondered how I would clean them up and it sure looks like a lot of work.
I was planning on sub-frame connectors so this seems like a win-win for me.
Anyone have any opinion on them?
Thanks in advance.
GH
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Woodgrain steering wheel horn issue » 8/23/2020 2:08 PM |
Hello
I recently bought a woodgrain steering wheel for my 67 fastback.
I replaced the standard unit but I must be missing something because there's no way that this can work.
It physically bolts onto the steering shaft but if I bolt it down to have an acceptable gap between the bottom of the wheel and the top of the steering column, the horn goes off.
As soon as both spring loaded contacts under the wheel actually touch the two rings, the horn goes off.
Do I need to modify my column to use this steering wheel?
This is the one I bought:
Thanks!
Geoff H.
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Bear Tracker bump steer kit issue » 7/05/2017 8:01 AM |
That's exactly how mine look!
I assume you've been running them like that for a while so relax and go concentrate on something that actually needs fixing.
Thanks for the picture.
Geoff H.
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Bear Tracker bump steer kit issue » 7/04/2017 12:15 PM |
Thanks for the input.
I will chock this up to me being overly cautious where steering and brakes are concerned.
For some reason, I'm quite fond of being able to steer and stop.
Irrational, I know....
GH
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Bear Tracker bump steer kit issue » 7/04/2017 7:33 AM |
Thanks but I don't think that's the issue as my studs aren't going deep enough into the tapered hole.
If they were for the smaller hole, they'd slide right in without any friction.
Same principle if the hole was worn out.
It looks to me as if the hole isn't big enough.
The tie rod ends that were just removed were seated pretty deeply in there.
Perhaps I should look at the casting number on the spindle to be sure that the cougar that I'd taken them from hadn't been a victim of POS at some point.
Wouldn't that be a kick in the pants, 65/66 stang spindles on a 68 cougar that had been resting in someone's back yard for 10 years. I personally removed the spindles from that cougar in 1987 so the mix up didn't happen under my watch
GH
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Bear Tracker bump steer kit issue » 7/03/2017 8:07 PM |
short of posting a picture, the stud is tapered on one end, has a hex headed spot for a wrench in the middle then continues on with an area for spacers then you connect it to the centre link.
Here's a link to the product:
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Bear Tracker bump steer kit issue » 7/03/2017 8:03 PM |
Hello,
I've installed a Bear Tracker bump steer kit on my 1967 mustang.
The car is using 1968 Cougar spindles and is manual steering.
The tapered stud that fits into the steering arms does not bottom out against the machined surface like the original tie rod end used to.
On one side, there's about 1/8" of a gap and on the other, there's about a 1/16th" of an inch gap.
The studs are both bottomed out in the tapered bore so I'm at a loss.
The original tie rod ends don't have a flat surface that you'd expect to have fully pressed against steering arms so I have no frame of reference other than it looks wrong.
Any thoughts?
As far as I can tell, a 68 cougar and a 67 mustang use the same tie rod ends so the bore is the same.
Help
Geoff H.
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Powerjection III Fuel Injection Install (Software) Help Needed » 11/21/2016 6:51 PM |
Good luck on this one.
I bought a PJII version 1 but didn't install it for several years.
By the time I got around to opening the box, two newer versions were out and they had no interest in helping me.
I eventually figured it out myself with some help of forum users.
I've sent emails and voicemails but no response at all in more than 6 months.
I've given up and just spend my time spreading my experience around to as many people as possible.
Unfortunately, the tuning of Version 2.0 v1 and 2.0 V2 is different enough that very few people could help.
I'm sure that going from 2.0 to 3.0, my knowledge would be useless to you.
Next up is replace it with anything that uses a FAST computer.
Apparently, some people have been able to upgrade their units to use a FAST computer. No idea how that could be done though.
GH
1 of 1
REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |