There is an elementary school right up the street from my house. The front is set up like a mini oval race track to drop off/pick up the kids. I generally do my brake work on Saturday's, so no school. I run the vehicle up to 50 in the straight and hard brake down to around 5 at the turn. 10 times around gives me 20 braking times and at the end you can start to smell the brakes. This method has worked great for me half a dozen times, ymmv.

I asked this in my 347 build thread but got no response so, 

Back to the starter debate. I originally ordered one of the mini high torque starters
then realized it was for an auto trans so I sent it back and got one for a manual. The only
caveat was that it said it would only work on a 164 tooth flywheel.(I used a 157 tooth on this 
build). Since most here agreed the only difference was auto or manual I went ahead & got it. 
Went to put it on this AM and had enough sense to compare it to my old one(which worked fine 
with a 164 tooth manual flywheel & bellhousing). There is a huge difference in the length of 
the shaft (about a 1/4") and the orientation of the gear in the housing (the old one is 
centered and the new is offset to the left).

Pics:




I thought the mini would help with the headers but I sure don't want to do anything 
to damage the new to me aluminum bellhousing. Which one is the correct one for the
157 tooth manual?

Thanks,

Joel S.
 

MS wrote:

jshrop6004 wrote:

Does anybody have a manual 157 tooth bellhousing for the toploader? The casting number is C5DA-6394-A.
I had the 164 tooth flywheel that I replaced with the Ford Racing 157 tooth flywheel so I am pretty sure I need to replace the bellhousing. I also think that is why the tri-y's are hitting the block plate.

******************************************
I found one when cleaning out the attic today, but the pivot for the clutch lever is MIA. I bet the one from your old bell would fit. Do you still need it?


 

Thanks so much Steve for looking, I greatly appreciate it, I ordered one on Monday from NE Performance Mustang. It came in on Thursday, I bolted it up last night and got this installed today:



I am one whipped puppy! You were not wrong about the motor mounts being a pain, but we finally got it all to line up. Will try to get everything hooked up tomorrow and possibly get it started. Thanks for everyone's help so far, I am sure I will need more help before we are done!

Joel S.



 

Hey 6Sally, used  to converse with you on the "old" site, I'm in Greer(between Greenville & Spartanburg). If I remember you reside in Surfside, we used to live in Socastee back in the mid 90's.

On the headers I think the 157 tooth bellhousing will solve the header problem, I have one coming from the good folks at NE Performance Mustang along with a new block plate. Hope to finally get the motor in this weekend, will post my progress.

Joel S

As mentioned above I had to change the frame mounts to use the Prothane motor mounts. Does this look correct? 





It is the only way I could make them work but wanted to be sure. One step closer!

Update on the swap.
> I stupidly ordered a 289 hi-po water pump, had to return for a 302.
> I'm using a 7 qt oil pan, had to order a deeper pick up to match.
> Changed the hei dist to my 289 Ford dist.
> Was using the original clutch bolts, broke one off in the fly wheel torquing to 25 ft lbs, got it out with an ez    out, bought new bolts
> Bought Prothane motor mounts, they wouldn't work with my early 65 frame mounts, had to buy 66 frame      mounts (hoping to get the new frame mounts on tomorrow)
> Zbar frame bracket was cracked and ball stud skewed at a 45 degree angle causing zbar end to egg out,    bought whole new hi-po zbar set up including bracket for motor side ball stud since 302's are not tapped      for it.
> Tried bolting on the Ebay stainless tri-y headers today, they hit the separator plate on the passenger side    so any suggestions there would be appreciated.
> I took the exhaust loose because I didn't want to cut it, but now I can't get it over the rearend to remove.

Like Mustang Steve says, "Double the cost & double the time!"

Rudi wrote:

Texas! wrote:

Please lose that HEI distributor as quickly as possible!

  I second that suggestion, that and Carter/Edelbrock carbs  just don't look right on a Ford engine!

Carb is a Holley 650.

The 347 has arrived!



Flywheel & clutch here as well but of course waiting on the 1st thing that has to be installed, the harmonic balancer. Will keep everybody posted on the progress. Thanks for all the help.

Joel S.

MS wrote:

Starters are not different for 157 or 164 tooth flywheels. I see this incorrect info posted quite often.

A Mustang with original 289 and four speed would have a 157 tooth flywheel with 28 ounce balance. You would have had to change the bellhousing and block plate to convert it to 164 tooth, but not the starter. Orignal bell would be for 157 unless it was swapped from a Galaxie or truck engine.

So, if you have a 289 and are convertng to a 28 ounce stroker, you can use the old 289 starter and flywheel. I would verify the stroker is actually 28 oz, though. Seems most are built on 5.0 platform and they would use 50 ounce parts. I have not used a 347 personally, so it may indeed be a 28 ounce.

If you need a new flywheel, Ford Racing makes several versions of billet flywheels for under $300.
I would recommend one for strength and the ability to use the more popular 10.5" clutch.

Thanks for the reply Steve, you see how confusing this can be. 
The spec on the 347 states that it is a 28.2 oz imbalance motor.
The flywheel that was on the 289 was a 164 tooth(could have been changed?).
The existing  clutch is a 10" 3 finger 10 spline.
So I know the 10" clutch will work with the bellhousing I have now, that is why I went with the 10" Mcleod 500 HP clutch. It sounds like I can use either 157 or 164 tooth on the flywheel. The Ford Racing flywheel I have found is part # M-6375-A302B 157 tooth 28.2 oz imbalance. Do you think all this will work together?

Joel S. 

The clutch is a 75213 McLeod Super StreetPro Clutch Kit
and the balancer is a SUM-163289 Harmonic Balancer, OEM, Internal, External Balance, Nodular Iron, Natural, Ford, 289, 302, 351W.=30px https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-163289

Hello Everybody, 

Been gone a few years, bought a 09 Shelby GT500 in '14 and been modding that for a while, finally back to the 25 year long '65 project!

Bought a 347 crate engine fully dressed, it should be here by the weekend. Got the water pump  & harmonic balancer figured out but the clutch & flywheel solution seems to be a bit muddled.

I am staying with my old tried & true Toploader 4 speed. The original flywheel is a 164 tooth 6 bolt 14-14" diameter, 28 oz balance, the clutch is a 10" 10 spline.

I bought a Mcleod Super Street Pro 500HP 10" 10 spline clutch 
but the only 2 flywheels listed are over $400 each.(ouch)  Does anybody know if there are other flywheel options for this set up? I'm not married to the 10" Mcleod, but I figured it would be OK since we know the 10" I have now works with the toploader & the bellhousing. I figure I will change the starter to a mini high torque version, does it need to correlate with the flywheel?

What headers are the best choice with this motor/trans combination? There are so many choices it is blinding. I want stainless and from what I have read JBA seems to be preferred. 

Will I have to change the z bar pivot ball to a different configuration for the 347?

Anything else I might have left off?

This forum has been invaluable for this project & I appreciate all the help over the years.

Joel S.