That washer looks like it came off the distributor shaft. I've only rebuilt two motors in my whole life. One was a 289, it seems like there were plastic gauges under the bearings on the crankshaft for torque specs.

Thanks TKO! I appreciate you being available.

Someone said running too lean will cause a motor to overheat. I understand fuel helps lubricate the cylinder and is cool going in. But will a motor running too lean run long enough to overheat?

HudginJ3 wrote:

There are 2 systems other than the factory. Vintage Air  and Old air Products. They have a lot of info on the Internet. I have the factory system with Old Air Products replacement parts to keep it going, so I have no preference.

Are you saying you have some factory and some aftermarket? Sounds like that might be better according to what I was just told about having to start all over with vintage Air.

68 mustang, originally automatic with Air Conditioning, 289. Now it's a standard shift, no AC.
Took my boy out for a Father's day 200 mile run. Mostly out of town and back home. It was awfully hot. I can handle it pretty good. BUT my girlfriend was a little more uncomfortable, especially in heavy traffic.
Considering to put AC back in. There are, two 0pen lines sticking out of the firewall and everything under the dash is original, I believe.
What type of prep is needed for the two lines coming from firewall and which AC kit is most recommended?
I think it would be a fun and great project for her and I!
Any help and advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks.

I'm calling it the hood support post. It holds the hood latch striker bar. It holds the radiator mount and attaches to the bottom frame rail in front of the radiator with a single bolt somehow. The bottom clip or bolt is missing. There's only a square hole in the frame. The frame at the radiator seems to be sealed with the exception of rust hole under the battery to access another option. Other than using a small toggle bolt, what have y'all done to secure the post at the bottom to the frame? If you have pictures this would be great!
Thanks for your help!

Really cool stories and pictures. Wish I could have been there. I was born in Bryan, Tx in 1960. I lived in Baytown Tx and College Station. Went to College Station Jr high school. We're any of you living there in the early 70's?

Thanks everyone, for quick responses! Sound advice in here. I'll try everything you've mentioned and let you know.

Hello mustangers. Good afternoon.
After driving, I have 8 to 10 drips of green water dripping from the left front corner of the oil pan gasket.
No water there, right!
So it must be coming from somewhere else, drying up at the source and puddling there until finally draning off. I can't find the leak because it quits. Not a freeze plug they don't look wet. How thick are the are the walls of the water channels of a 289? There are some tiny pebbles of rust in my radiator.
Thanks for your help!

Thanks guys. My breather is original but cut out all the way around (no sidewalls). I tried what I think Tom calls a closed system with an oil filler cap and hose mounted inside the air filter area next to the carburetor. But that's not really closed without the sidewalls. I believe it help a little.

289, 4100 Autolite. Bored .30. Are there different levels of pollution control valves which stay open at higher speeds in unless vacuum?

Rudi wrote:

out of the tail pipe?

No, it's as if the motor sweats.

It's been raining here for almost 3 days. Mustang is in the garage and I guess it's the cold cast iron and high humidity which causes condensation. Water clinging and dripping. Mixed in with blow-by. Looks like an oil.spill.