Happy New Year everyone. Son and I had to pull the trans out to fix a parking pawl issue. While we were down there we decided it might be good to replace the motor mounts that look to be cracked. Problem is everyone says the majority of after market ones are junk. Any manufacturer suggestions.
Also, a long time back I remember someone suggesting drilling and running bolts through them. Anyone have a link to that or experience with it.
Thanks,
Q

Hey guys,
My son finally got his coupe on the road  Woo hooo.. The C4 seems to be working well and shifting great. Unfortunately, he came home the other day and went to pull into the garage. The car was sitting on a bit of ice. He went to pull in tire was spinning and thus car not moving. Put the car in park thinking something was up and effectively put the car in park while the driveline was spinning.( I think) Feels pretty awful, but thats how we learn.
Now it feels like the Ebrake is on and won't move. when you try to drive in forward or reverse. No strange noises. You can feel the torque converter clunk and load in R D L. Unloads in Neutral, but if you try to push the car in neutral it feels like it is in gear or park. Pulled the driveshaft out and pushed it into the garage. No problesms with differential and Driveshaft is locked and would not spin. Thinking maybe the parking pawl got jammed, damaged, stuck. Anybody know if we can pull the tailshaft in the car and see/ or get to the parking pawl without pulling the whole transmission? Any other thoughts or suggestions.
Q

Thanks Steve and TKO, freshly bent lines using Steves flaring tips and we are all sealed up. Now 2 more questions.
1 We have an automatic. I don't want to share the vacuum for the booster with other things right. I have one that goes to the distributor front of carb, PCV to carb spacer and Trans from port on back of intake. Suggestions as to where or what ports should work best for what.
2 We did the Mustang Steve Pedal Pin and Bracket. The pedal seems quite high. Is that normal or should we do something to adjust it?
Thanks,
Q

Hi all, we are finishing the install of the CSRP disk brake kit. Nice kit overall and good service from Dennis. We aksi bought and are using Mustang steve Pedal bracket, pin kit and brake booster. Sons new welding skills are paying off.
We are running new brake lines and having a hard time getting them to seal.  We were very careful to get them in nice and straight and put them all the way in by hand with just the final torque using the tubing wrench.
Having said that we still have the line from the proportioning valve to the rears leaking. Due to the routing of the kits lines it is very difficult to get to and tighten. The rear brake line now looks to be tweaked from all the effort.
Here is the question:
1.Should we, order a new pre bent rear intermediate line and try again.
2.Cut and flare in a new section from somewhere lower on the original line that would run directly to the proportioning valve without the provided line from CSRP
3.Get straight line and bend up a brand new line to the same positioning and try again?

I did the conversion with SSBC on another coupe years ago and mounted the proportioning valve to inner fender. This kit mounts the proportioning valve to a bracket off of the bottom of the master cylinder and then has a pre-bent  s-curve line as well as a flexible line that goes to the distribution block. Curious why one of the lines is flexible and the others are pre-bent hardlines

Anyone use this kit and change the proportioning valve location or have ideas and opinions about it? 
Thanks,
Q
 

I realize this thread is really old, so I thought I would check and see if anyone knows of a template online that I can use to make a shock tower brace like this.  I think we can make one ourselves, but thougt I would check first to see if there is one available.
Q

Thanks guys. Definitely doing the arning drop. Picked up the template from Daze cars.  we don't have the budget for the full roller bearings right now. Are the scott drake Hi performance spring perches worth it?  The description and reviews indicate that they have a bit more movement than the stock ones.

Thanks that helps.  I realize everyone will have different results, but it gives me a general idea of where we might land.
 

Thanks Hornman. That looks like it might be them. I will put a caliper on them and check the wire size. They look very short and maybe too stiff.  Kind of what I was afraid of. They might need to stay on the shelf while we experiment with the cutting the stock ones down.
Any thoughts or experience with the Scott Drake High performance spring saddles?  Roller is out of the budget right now.

Thanks guys.  I really appreciate the complete and detailed information. I agree TKO, its likely best just to grab a 40 dollar single bowl and see where any other issues might be lurking, then purchase the conversion kit and all the other associated parts to complete the job.
 

Wow, this has been a pain. Lots of cutting modifying and fitting. Bolted to Floor, what did you paint or coat the inside and face adjacent to the floor pan with. We were going to use POR15, but may just use a good coat of Rustoleum or bed liner. 
I am concerned about the floor pan(toe board laying against the torque box and trapping moisture and eventually rust in that space. It fits pretty good, but there is still going to be a little gaps here and there between the two pieces.
Suggestions or thoughts welcome

Wow, there are a lot of strong opinions out there on the internet, regarding the fit and quality of the various sheet metal companies. Surely there are enough folks here that have actual experience that wouldn't mind just letting us know their personal findings. At this point based on internet searches and such it sounds like Goodmark is better than Dynacorn. Who knows. Maybe its best to just repair the rust on the original panel.

Well, I guess this one will be difficult for comparison. Here is the fender I recieved yesterday.
This doesn't show the full extent of the damage, it was dented up and down the whole thing.