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FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 2.5 or 2.25 pipe for 302?? » 3/02/2014 8:15 AM

Uwiik
Replies: 12

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Good to know I don't need to spend more money!! Thanks for the peace of mind guys!!!

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 2.5 or 2.25 pipe for 302?? » 3/01/2014 7:27 AM

Uwiik
Replies: 12

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Rudi wrote:

Uwiik wrote:

302 with 4100 1.12 carb and ported and polished Edelbrock E street alum head, manual trans.
Should I use 2.5 or 2.25 pipe? I already have JBA 2.5" full system on hand but my mech here said I should go 2.25"??

 
If you have the 2.5 use it. Why put out more $$$. The bigger will sound better anyway.

Somebody said I will lose power by having to big of a pipe....with my little engine every bit of extra hp counts...so it is a truth or BS that 2.5" is too big??
 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 2.5 or 2.25 pipe for 302?? » 3/01/2014 1:42 AM

Uwiik
Replies: 12

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302 with 4100 1.12 carb and ported and polished Edelbrock E street alum head, manual trans.
Should I use 2.5 or 2.25 pipe? I already have JBA 2.5" full system on hand but my mech here said I should go 2.25"??

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Edelbrock E street Upgrade » 2/27/2014 11:06 AM

Uwiik
Replies: 11

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Above is the camshaft specs...really mild cam but it is what I have in hand....Should I go 1.6 or 1.7 rocker ratio for a street friendly setup?

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Edelbrock E street Upgrade » 2/27/2014 10:33 AM

Uwiik
Replies: 11

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I am buying 3/8" ARP rocker stud and K Motion K750 springs for peace of mind.  Scorpion 1.6 ratio full roller rocker set for he extra oomph for my very very mild cam.....How much gain should I see with 1.6 ratio arms with my HE268H cams?

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Edelbrock E street Upgrade » 2/27/2014 8:20 AM

Uwiik
Replies: 11

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Tmac wrote:

I have those heads on my 289. K750 was the part number I got for better springs. Had a cam that had .512 lift on intake and exhaust. Limit for the springs that come on the heads states .550 max. So instead if changing the springs. I bought a different cam. Toned down. But the engine runs strong and I like it.

So you did not buy the K750 and currently still running stock spring? Do you ever get past 5500rpm?
 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 289 or 302 dilemma » 2/27/2014 3:33 AM

Uwiik
Replies: 20

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6sally6 wrote:

 10:1 would be a safe bet with a cam with a tight LSA. (All Isky Cams are ground on a 108* LSA) 224*@050 duration and about 540 Lift.
 

Which Isky cam would you reccomend?? Part number? How does this cam sounds on idle??
BTW: I have tried asking Ken from Delta cam per your suggestion but no reply
 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Edelbrock E street Upgrade » 2/27/2014 3:24 AM

Uwiik
Replies: 11

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So what is the suggestion?? I read on a forum that K-Motion K750 is a good drop in replacement for the E-street, this really confuse me, Edellbrock website indicated 1.460 spring diameter while K-Motion K750 has 1.265 diameter....What spring will drop in nicely as a stronger replacement for my E-Street???

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Edelbrock E street Upgrade » 2/26/2014 9:44 PM

Uwiik
Replies: 11

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It comp cams high energy 268H rpm range is 1500-5500. Well maybe I cannot rev higher then, but i just want a peace of mind knowing my springs wouldn't break on me.... I just want a better drop in replacement for my speings for the insurance.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Edelbrock E street Upgrade » 2/26/2014 8:06 PM

Uwiik
Replies: 11

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Edelbrock website specifically said that E street is good from idle to 5500 rpm. I definitely will rev way over that with my little 289... What should I change on the valve department to make it possible? I heard horror stories about spring dampers and the springs itself breaking on E street. What spring and spring specification should I buy? What dampers?

Thanks for the answers folks!!

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 289 or 302 dilemma » 2/26/2014 8:19 AM

Uwiik
Replies: 20

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A very interesting read....Just wondering about streetability factor with such a big hp from a small engine...

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 289 or 302 dilemma » 2/26/2014 8:06 AM

Uwiik
Replies: 20

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6sally6 wrote:

My favorite trick on SBF builds is.........have the piston put on the rods with the notch pointing  TO THE BACK OF THE ENGINE instead of the front.
You are gonna have ARP rod bolts installed and have the big ends re-sized!!?! That way...the engine should hold together VERY well in the upper RPM range. IF left stock....the first thing to come loose with be a rod bolt or a rod bearing will spin.
Both are BAD
Other tips coming later
6sal6

 
That's new to me, Joe Sherman article claims 15-30hp by simply installing the pistons backward, that's A LOT of free power.....any downside on doing this other than increase noise when cold?? What is the logic behind it? Not doubting it but I was just wondering if the factory made the piston facing the intended direction then how come installing it against the factory recommendation actually result in more power??

What is re sizing big end? How to do it? Do I need to rebalance the rods after resizing the big end??

I was gonna use the stock bolt. If that's the case I will just buy a complete ARP SBF bolt kit...

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Main & Rod bearing Clevite P vs. H series » 2/25/2014 9:37 AM

Uwiik
Replies: 2

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Good to know that I don't need to pay more than what I need to pay Thanks a lot!!

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Main & Rod bearing Clevite P vs. H series » 2/25/2014 7:21 AM

Uwiik
Replies: 2

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Needing a set of new Clevite main and rod bearings for my engine 289 with alum head and 9.5:1 CR.

What is the difference between Clevite P and H series? H series cost about 2.5 times more than P series, what justify the price and what should I use for my mouse engine?

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 289 or 302 dilemma » 2/25/2014 7:01 AM

Uwiik
Replies: 20

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So what kind of figure I can realistically expect to achieve with my setup?

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 289 or 302 dilemma » 2/24/2014 8:07 PM

Uwiik
Replies: 20

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289 wins hands down!! OK then I am going that way!

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 289 or 302 dilemma » 2/24/2014 9:07 AM

Uwiik
Replies: 20

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"289"     "302"
    1.  Vs.   0.   


What kind of TQ/HP figure I can expect from 289 with:
- comp cams High Energy 268H
- Edelbrock E Street head with porting and polishing and port matching job
- Autolite 4100 1.12
- Weiand stealth intake
- Full 2.25" JBA exhaust system long header
- CR set at 9.5:1 ish
- 1.6 rocker ratio
- 0 deck height
- pertronix III ignition
- spark plug indexing
???

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 289 or 302 dilemma » 2/24/2014 7:27 AM

Uwiik
Replies: 20

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Those who replied to my previous thread may be familiar with my case, but I will shortly explain once again..

I have 289 C code with problematic off idle transition and whatnot.... Upon complete teardown I found out that everything is a mess....galled piston, galled crankshaft journal, valve not seating properly, etc....

I will keep my question simple...I will be going either 289 or 302, I have no interest in going 302 roller, stroker or whatnot, so please keep it between 289 vs. 302...


After everything that I already bought/have on hand I came up with below dilemma for the final decision.
- With 289 I need to machine my stock 289 crankshaft to undersize and buy smaller rod and main bearing + 0.027 MLS gasket to bump compression up. Around $650 total cost including shipping and tax + machining
- With 302 I need to buy new crankshaft and connecting rod, my friend thought He had a new 302 crank, apparently not, so I need to buy new from US. Around $1.200 after shipping and tax...

So is the extra 13CI worth the $550 difference between 289 vs 302??

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » coilover suspension nice but teeth jarring » 2/23/2014 9:22 AM

Uwiik
Replies: 21

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jollem wrote:

60 profile on tires should be ok. Springs!! How low do you have car on coil overs?If car wound down low try raising then test drive. If shocks are adjustable soften a little

 
I have flex a form 1.5" drop leaf spring, it sits kinda lower than I expected so yes the front sits pretty low. Making a +2" custom shackle right now to raise rear and then I'll adjust front to 1" higher too.. We'll see...shock can be revalved said Shaun, is it something that a diy'er can do?

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » coilover suspension nice but teeth jarring » 2/22/2014 11:06 AM

Uwiik
Replies: 21

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GPatrick wrote:

There are four or five things that may contribute to a bone-jarring ride.  Unfortunately, curing the ride can be trial and error process.  To minimize trial and error, obtain your shock and spring data to know which way to go of if the they appear to be too much for street driving.  It is hard to make suggestions when the data is not know.  Just some thoughts - 

1. Tires - the lower the profile more than likely the ride will be stiffer.  However, within a group of tires, there are better and worse tires from the noise and harshness perspective.  In fact, there may be some lower profile tires that are better than higher profiles.  Tire Rack, for example, provides ratings and rankings on most tires they sell and offers some insight on which tires are better than others for harshness.  It is interesting that handling capability and harshness are not always related.  There are quiet and smooth tires that handle very well.

2. Tire pressure - with a new setup you may be running much higher pressure than necessary.  Measure where you are and drop it in 3 psi increments and drive over the same street and see if the ride improves.  I have a German car with wide tires and owners commonly run at least 5 psi below factory without adverse tire wear or temperature specifically to improve kidney comfort.  On my Cobra I was running about 20 to 22 psi on the rears which across a 295 tire with a light car is all that it needed.  Dropping a few psi as long as you are at safe pressures can significantly improve harshness.

3.  Front anti-sway bar size -  I am not an expert by any stretch but for street driving it is unlkely that you will ever need more than a 1" bar.  When hitting a bump or pot hole with one wheel a little compliance in the front suspension is necessary.  One could argue that stock rubber end links will give you more than enough action for hard cornering and make the street more liveable - stiff for the big loads and weak for the lit

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » coilover suspension nice but teeth jarring » 2/22/2014 10:59 AM

Uwiik
Replies: 21

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rpm wrote:

Which handling package did you get? One of the quirks with sot, is all his parts and set up info is "proprietary". So if you want to change to a 25 or 50 lb lighter spring, do you just guess? If the spring has a number stamped on it you might be in luck. Ron Morris uses 350# front springs, and 180# I think, rears. It would be helpful to know your spring rates. As far as which Bilstein shock sot uses, who knows. Not every coil over system is or has to be bone jarring.

Bob

 
I got the 'street' handling package, I will see the stamp on the shock and the spring when I have the chance. Shaun had asked me to give him the number..

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » coilover suspension nice but teeth jarring » 2/22/2014 10:57 AM

Uwiik
Replies: 21

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MustangSteve wrote:

Since you asked...
The stock upper/lower control arm system with Shelby drop and 1" sway bar makes for a very smooth ride, reasonable handling and low cost.

Let's face it folks... Just because somebody builds a bling-bling bunch of parts to fit the classic Mustang does not mean they are necessarily any better than the stock stuff.  As much as we all want to think we are race car drivers, these cars are driven down the street to the burger and shake place and to car cruises more than they are raced down an expressway entrance ramp.  I am talking street cars here.  Yes, there are guys that actually race their cars and that is a whole different ballgame.  The serious ones likley race in vintage classes where...guess what... you HAVE to run original style control arms.  I am not a racer and don't need my car to handle Laguna Seca at 150 MPH.  But it does handle and corner very well with the stock control arms and a 1" bar.  I did install a TCP rack and pinion, which makes the car alot easier to park and turn corners, but it did absolutely nothing as for an improvement in cornering as compared to a stock, non-power 66 GT steering box. Nothing...
I did break down and installed a set of Global West upper control arms.  Sorry, but no difference in everyday driving which is 99.9% of the car's use.

Everyone likes to spend money on these cars and that is why we have such an enjoyable hobby.  But in reality, you can make these cars handle quite well without sinking a fortune into all that "modern technology" that can be made to fit but doesn't necessarily equate to that much better (if at all, as some have discovered) street manners.  I think a good air conditioner is a much better investment...

This made me bump me head but I asked for it!! At first I strongly considered going high end stock setup, since the price difference of high end stock system vs coilover is not that much I thought why not go coilover... Apparently I was

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Over boosted R&P power steering » 2/22/2014 10:38 AM

Uwiik
Replies: 4

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Thanks so much for so many ideas....too much information hard to digest LOL!! I will ask uncle Google about all you guys information and slowly digest it. When I come up with something I will post the progress...My stang is in pieces right now undergoing total ground up bolt and nuts restoration, all begin from a simple desire to change the color LOL!!

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Rear leaf spring reccomendations » 2/21/2014 10:52 AM

Uwiik
Replies: 9

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Got my flex a form from Alex, couldn't be happier...now I need to fix my front..

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Over boosted R&P power steering » 2/21/2014 10:36 AM

Uwiik
Replies: 4

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Got a Randall's R&P P/S with Randall's pump on my stang, How do you decrease the over boosted feel on it? I was thinking about increasing the pulley diameter but I am not sure about space for bigger pulley. Before you tell me to ask Randall, for some reason He just do not answer email from overseas, I had to actually ask my friend from the US to order for me when I bought it....

Board footera


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