Watch the original Gone In 60 Seconds made in 1974 I think. They wrecked around 89 cars during a 48 minute chase scene. I think they only had 2 cars to make the movie. Later dude

Oreilly's  sells spring loaded check valves. Just crack open the check valve one at a time and pump the brake petal.  The spring loaded check valve opens allowing the air and brake fluid out. Release the brake petal and the check valve closes not allowing air in. Simple and quick. Later Dude  

Huh I knew that.

Don't look at me in that tone of voice.

I just went through this with my 77 F100. Ethanol is not your friend. I siphoned all that I could out of the tank. You can't buy non ethanol gas in Harris county. Put 5 gals in tank and nothing came out by the fuel pump. Sealed the neck on the tank and applied a LITTLE bit of pressure to move the gas up the gauge tube and out of the tank. Once I saw gas come out by the fuel pump I knew that the siphon effect would take over and the line was full from the tank to the fuel pump. Later
Huh hell pay attention

I'm interested in the sway bar and glove box. Do you have a phone number so I can touch base with you? I've got a 68 coup in a million pieces that I'm finaly starting to work on again. Also I'm in Crosby.

I didn't think of that. What a concept. Modern technology at it's best.

The engine that came out of the truck had mid 80's 5.0 heads. The 302 headers bolted on but had to be bent down on passenger side to clear the bell housing. the trans is a T/L 4 speed replacing the OEM 3sp. the engine that came out and the one installed both have a threaded hole for the bell crank to pivit. The DART II heads on the new engine apparently relocated the spark plug closer to the center of the combustion chamber. 1977 F100 T/L 4sp 351W 9" 3.50 TL 

I replaced my water pump on my 1977 F100 351W T/L 4sp a couple of weeks ago and had the same problem as another member had with a broke bolt. I got it put back togeather and it will not start. I know I have fuel to the carb. This thing ran fine before the W/P change out. My question is this. The after market gauge I put in years ago started showing 180 temp when the key was turned on. When the motor was up to temp, I checked it with a temp gun. The gun would showed 175 and the gauge would be peged..I put a new sender in from a new guage and hooked up to the old guage.Turn the key on the guage went to zero. Disconnect the sender, turn the key on and the guage pegs out? The motor will not fire up even with starting fluid. So is the old guage the problem as to why it will not start? Is it grounding the ignition? Any help would be apprciated thanks Emmett

I  rechecked this amp draw again. The H/Ls coming on was due to getting the radio out of the dash. I had to pull the H/L and wiper knob off to get the bezal off. Apparently the H/L switch was in the on postion from removing the knob. I reinstalled the knob turning the lights off. Retested with the test light and NO LIGHT.  Put the meter on it and no amp draw. Turned on park lights and it showed 3 amps. Turned lights off and turned ign switch on and it showed 4 amps. Turned ign switch off and checked amp draw again. Meter showed 0. So I guess all this time the H/L knob was not pushed in all the way? I'll have to put this all back togeather and recheck it. FYI I had replaced the H/L switch and dimer several years ago. I was coming home from a cruise and the all of the lights went out. After a few menutes of driving in the dark they came back on. I'll keep you posted if this comes back to haunt me. Thanks again for you replys

I changed out the alternator a couple years ago thinking that would solve the problem.
it didn't.  I didn't even check it out with a meter. I have a new meter that I talked to my neobhour that lives behind me that is an electrion and owns a 69 chevelle contvert and a blown 68 camero that he fixed up. He told me how to set up the meter. If I remember right the meter was on 10MA and it showed .088 on the readout. This reading is between the + post and the + cable with the ign off. Thanks

I HAVE A PARASITIC DRAIN ON A 1977 F100. I'M THE O/O OF THIS VEHICAL AND IT HAS 285000 MILES ON IT. THE ENGIN IS NOW A 351W/TL 4SP/3.50 T/L DIFF. I HAVE DISCONNECTED JUST ABOUT EVERYTHING UNDER THE HOOD. WHEN I PUT A TESTLIGHT ON BETWEEN THE POS BAT POLE AND THE POS CABLE THE LIGHT IS BRIGHT BUT QUICKLY DIMS. MY NEIGHBOUR SAYS THAT IT IS SOMETHING WITH A DIEODE. THE LAST THING I DISCONNECTED WAS THE PLUG FOR THE STEERING COLUMN BLINKER PLATE. WHEN I CHECKED WITH THE TEST LIGHT, THE LIGHT STAYED BRIGHT. IT DID NOT DIM AS WITH THE CHECKS. CAN ANYBODY HELP ME WITH THIS? THANKS PS77SB