I already have a booster so I'm looking for a pedal.  Should be 4.5 inches center to center pivot.

Thanks

I did a search and found some info but it was conflicting.   

I just ordered mb old school rims 17X8 ET6 and I'm wondering if they'll fit my 70 mustang using either 13.2 or 12.5 rotors?

Can anyone with experience shed some light on this?

Thanks in advance.

I have a 1970 Mustang I am trying to fix the wiring on that was pretty abused before I got it.  I've removed all the household wire nuts and direct to battery switches I could find and I'm starting over.

The problem is I can't find a wire off the ignition switch that has 12V in crank.  I want to find that so I can run it to my S terminal on my starter relay.  At the starter relay I have a big black wire that was spliced to the battery side of the solenoid.  When that is powered up I have a red wire with 12V in run, brown wire 12V in run and red/blue wire with 12V in run.  They all drop out in crank.

At the ignition switch I have a black/green wire 12V key on; Pink wire 12V key on; Yellow wire 12V key on; blue/red 12V key on; Purple 12V key on but drops out to nothing when in crank;  White/red with nothing coming out of it, but nothing is on the other side of the plug.

I did a lot of suff to the car at once. I installed a t5 but i spliced the red/blue wires together for the N safety switch.  I'm putting in a relay off the igniton to run a fuse panel which will power the HEI dist and the coil, I'm just trying to get it to crank.

Which wire goes to the S terminal for the crank signal and which wire off the switch sends it?

I have a wiring diagram but it doesn't show how the switch is wired.  Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,

I think I read somewhere that the power booster will get in the way unless you run the clutch cable.

I was under the impression I HAD to use the 6 cylinder belhousing/flywheel/clutch/starter, is that not the case?

I do agree that I don't want to rush buying any parts and make sure I have my research and a solid plan in place prior to starting anything.  I've tried the shotgun method before and it usually ends poorly.

Other than the first gear ratio is there a drawback to the cheaper less desirable trasmission?  I don't think this 200 is still putting out all its advertised horsepower and I'm mainly looking for a nice cruiser, so abuse of the trasmission isn't a concern.  It is strong enough to hold the torque that 6 cylinder will put at it.

Thanks for theh help

Hey guys. New owner here looking for clarification.  I ultimately want power disc brakes and a t5 cable operated clutch in my car with five lug wheels(modern).  I'm going to have to do it in stages since money is tight.   I need to figure out the best way to group these projects together so they make sense and I'm not responding money.  

So working backwards, I know the five lug wheels will be done with the rear end.  I'll need to wait on the front disc conversion until I can do disc/rear axle/ wheels at the same time.  So my next thought is doing power drum which will require spending money on a master cylinder that ultimately will have to be replaced (not a huge deal) but from what I've read needs the clutch cable will need to be done at the same time because it is in the way of the booster.  That's ok because Mustang Steve sells a kit that has the clutch cable conversion and the power brake conversion all in one shot.  So if I do that I'll want to do the t5 at the same time.  This is where the research gets tricky.   It looks like I should have a 9 inch clutch because my starter has 2 bolts.  On the cable conversion page on Steve's site it lists working bestr with 10 and 11 inch clutches.  Do I need to buy a new clutch and flywheel?  I was thinking I should buy a new clutch anyway to get the modern looking one instead of the three finger thing in there now, plus I think I have to get a different disc to work with the t5 input shaft?

I do have a question about the t5 selection.  The v8 ones are getting harder to find, I know using the 4 cylinder ones require using a diesel ranger piliot bearing but the gearing is less than ideal.  What would that gearing do for my 200?  Would it make it better or worse?  I get confused sometimes about the numerical diferences.

Is there any way to break this up into more than two chunks?

Thanks for any advice.