We just got our fresh 347 running in our 66 coupe.  Has about 3 hours on it so far.  Bought the 347 kit from Skip White Performance on Ebay.  It comes balanced with the balancer and flexplate for around $1k. It has extra-height forged Wiseco pistons, so they have a nice thick top and easy to zero deck on a slightly decked block. We had our machine shop work a 90 302 roller block for us and install the rotating assembly into the short block. Total machine shop bill was about $900. They thought the rotating assembly was a nice kit.

I had Skip balance it with a flywheel (t5z transmission) for an extra $100, but that turned out to be a mistake because i wanted a flywheel for a 10.5" fox clutch and the flywheels Skip has are the 289/302 10" bolt pattern.  They didn't drill the flywheel when they balanced it so i swapped it out for the fox flywheel we had on the old 289, so all is good.

We put edelbrock performer heads with 2.02 valves and scorpion 1.6 roller rockers, an edelbrock rpm intake,  edelbrock 650 cfm thunder carb and a Comp magnum 270hr cam in it, with tri-y headers and 2 1/4" dual h-pipe exhaust.

No dyno on it yet,  but it will spin the tires hard in 2nd if I hammer it while cruising at 25-30 mph in a straight line (9" 3.70 trac loc rear). Haven't really stretched its legs too much yet, but i can say it's a lot of fun. Probably going to need some better tires and maybe some Traction bars of some sort.

Recommended 

Bob

Billy - thanks.  So Modern Driveline Web site doesn't appear to list part numbers. That "stock clutch" is a 10"? And you're using that with the throwout bearing that came with it, with T5 clutch fork?  That cast flywheel is the "long pattern" flywheel?

Thanks, 

Bob

So,  we are preparing to replace the 289 with a newly built 347 in our 66 coupe.

The current setup with the 289 is a 1990 T5 transmission, with Daze hydraulic master/slave using the T5 bellhousing and fork,  and a 28 oz 157 tooth flywheel. It has a fox 10.5" clutch with 8mm pressure plate bolts and alignment pins.

The 347 came with a 157 tooth flywheel that is drilled for an early 289/302 clutch, with 5/16 pressure plate bolts. So the bolt pattern is wrong for a fox 5.0 10.5" clutch.

I'd rather not swap the flywheel out unless I have to, because the 347 rotating assembly was spin balanced with it as a whole assembly.

I know I can get a 10" diaphragm clutch that will fit this flywheel. They make them to replace the old 3 finger clutches for 289/302 flywheels.

My question is: does anybody have any experience with this?  Will the 10" diaphragm clutch and throwout bearing work with my t5 bellhousing/fork? Any concerns about pre-load on the throwout for the hydraulic clutch?

Help is very appreciated.

Thanks

Bob

I'm curious,  why is it important that power steering work at idle?  Any steering works better with a little bit of accelerator pedal and at least a couple mph.

Bob

The h pipe didn't come close to fitting our tri-ys. I thought about trying to weld up flages square enough to get good seal with a gasket,  after cutting to get things lined up correctly,  and decided to go a different way.

Bought a pair of "header buddies". They are  ball connectors that you weld on the end of the h pipe. They bolt up to the header collector 3 bolt flanges and seal with no gasket.  They allow a fair bit of wiggle room  for imprecise cutting and fitting of the h pipe and create a great leakproof seal.

Highly recommend.

Bob

DC wrote:

I have been is cars several times that backed into something at night. Once I was even driving. Brighter back up lights would have been a great help. I think most back up light are usless as supplied by the manufacturer. Having them as bright as the headlights would not be a bad thing since they only come on in reverse.

 
This is a good point I hadn't considered. I was just thinking of them as signal lights to let someone behind me know I was backing up.

Bob

I don't know which wiring diagram you are looking at.  What I know is my NSS was removed when we had the t5 rebuilt, but still has the reverse lamp switch, which the pigtail i mentioned connects to. I had no wiring in the car,  i installed a new 21 circuit aftermarket wiring harness. The wiring I did for the backup switch was done as I said. I used regular bulb Drake reverse lights,  plenty bright.

Bob

I can empathize. I just started on removing the head from a 2002 jeep 3.7l v6. I guess i had a coolant coolant leak  and i let it overheat so my fault,  it apparently dropped a valve seat. I guess I was used to letting the old cast iron v8's overheat occasionally without consequence. Not a good ideas with aluminum heads it would seem. I'll have to replace the head and the gasket.  It's not quite the same as the old cars :-) Good luck.

Bob

Using type f atf in our Borgeson with hydroboost. Works great.

Bob

We put a hydroboost with a non adjustable pushrod in our 66. At that point the brake pedal sat low. I took the brake pedal to a machine shop and had them move the pin on the pedal 3/8" towards the firewall (i measured how far the pin moved when I raised the pedal to desired height). This raised the brake pedal height about an inch and a half.

Just a thought.

Bob

OK, so I grabbed some quick pics. this is the actuator mounted under the trunk floor between the framerail and gas tank.  Too little room to get the whole thing in one pic. Note that you can't see it in the pic, but I had to drill one hole in the center of the cable bracket for the mount bolt through the trunk floor because the two holes on the tabs were too wide for the flat bar mount. 




And here is one of the brace in the trunk and relay wiring. The brace is to prevent the trunk floor from bending under the stress. Haven't cleaned up or painted anything under there yet.
If I was to do this again, I would likely mount the actuator and cable brackets on the bar as a unit (and use a wider bar so I wouldn't have to drill another mounting hole in the cable bracket) , and then bolt the whole unit underneath with just some nuts and washers in the trunk. However, we are going to soundproof and carpet the trunk, so it will be hidden anyway, so I didn't feel like redoing it. 





I forgot to get a pic of the cables going to the calipers, but it doesn't really matter. Assume your brake cables will be cut to length and run along underneath the car to the brakes. Not terribly tricky. I used Lokar cable kit but you can get the cable brackets/etc. separately on the interwebs

As far as wiring goes, just google for wiring a polarity reversing relay circuit. I did it with a DPDT but you could just as easily use two regular relays: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087ZTEBG/ref=od_aui_bia_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 


I used a light up button. You could use most any button based on your circuit setup. [url]http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ESV8EQO/ref=pe_385040_121528360_TE_dp_1[

I was hoping maybe someone would know the sizes of the ports after they are port matched to tri y header gasket. I'm thinking they would fit stock 289 gasket size since the tri y header gasket was made for stock 289 so I'll likely go for ordering 3028 and 3029 and return one.

Thanks,

Bob

They are rectangular. 3003 look like they could fit. But so do 3017, 3028, 3031 and maybe even 3037. I'd hate to have to pull the headers and measure and then wait for gaskets to get shipped.

I made sure the headers were straight and flush before we installed. I'm not 100% sure yet if the leak is in the manifold gaskets or at the collector. I'm just trying to get prepared.

Thanks

Bob