I'll pass this along. for what it's worth. I have an engineer bud that builds gear boxes in huge printing presses. They run around the clock, and live abused lives. Longevity is their life blood. So to the degree their boxes were failing, that meant, down times, calls for service and unhappy customers. He was tasked with finding the best lubricant for preserving the metal-on-metal interfaces. Everything was on the table. And like engineers tend to do, he designed a reproducible test for comparison

We are in St. Louis. There is a company here named Lubri-Loy that produces a product called Revive. It is an oil fortifier. It doesn't coat parts, it modifies oil. Adding this "fortifier" to anything they tested produced what he called "shocking improvements". He made the mistake of using it in newly assembled engines and they had trouble wearing the parts in. They had to use oil absent the modifier for the initial starts.

My bud found it miraculous enough he won't hardly run anything without this additive. It doesn't matter what weight oil, it improves it all. It even improves the synthetics. It's pricey. The company doesn't seem to be looking for customers like me. They want industrial orders. But they produce quantities for folks like us. One ounce per quart, poured right in with the crankcase oil. I suppose most folks would have to do their own tests to trust something like this. I'm shooting my mouth off without any particular personal testing. But he was so impressed with the stuff I'm sold on it. Thought I'd share it here if you care to explore...

https://www.reviveoil.com/Articles.asp?ID=156

Lance

Resolution! All the above advise considered, we had delivered the PCM that came with the 92 GT to SIA electronics. We knew ahead of time their workforce was temporarily demolished by mandated quarantines, so instead of their usual 1-3 day turnaround, we would be without for over a week. Without the PCM, I couldn't really check any of the above items. Yesterday morning, I caught wind of a PCM out of a 93 GT AOD and was able to acquire it for $50. I plugged it in, fully expecting that it couldn't possibly be the PCM. But what the heck! Decided to bump the key and check, just for giggles.

To my great surprise, it instantly started! Stunk up the garage because I didn't expect exhaust. Wouldn't stay running without goosing the throttle because I had all the mass airflow stuff disconnected. But once I stuck that back together... voila! I have a running beast once again. Drove it right onto the trailer and took it home.

Just figured you all would enjoy hearing a success story after all of your investment of advice. Thanks, as always. Super helpful group of guys! Love it.

Lance

P.S. If any of your are curious to see what we were playing with, you can find pics here:

https://www.svdg-ofallon.com/mustang-fastback

TKO,
I believe we have verified that the relays are functioning. I can hear the pump running. I am able to measure rail pressure at 45 PSI. I can see fire from coil, as well as a timing light sensing all 8 plug wires, so the juice is getting beyond the distributor. The injectors have 12v to them, but while cranking the engine over, the voltage doesn't flinch. If I pour fuel in the intake, the car runs. Checked all the grounds I know to check. The PCM has power because the pump runs with the key. This is what has us wondering whether the PCM could be bad. It is a remanufactured PCM already, so someone else apparently had one go bad, or thought they had anyway. I couldn't have gotten this far without help from someone who is pretty car sharp, but I'm eager for your insight. Does what I describe make you wonder about the PCM?

L

Men,
I have my Father in law's car I'm diagnosing. Drive train out of a 92 mustang GT with AOD. Computer says it's remanufactured. Injectors are not firing. Checked all we know to check. At this point, the PCM is in hand. I'd like to find someone close to diagnose it definitively. I wonder how I'd even find someone to test near me? Also, I'd love to know how to translate the digits on the PCM i'm holding in case I have to buy a replacement. Anyone have a trick for translaating?

I know that's a question that must have come up. Tell me to search harder if need be. Don't wanna be anyone's PITA...

Thanks!

Lance

Thanks guys!

Thank you a million times over! We have the beast up and running. Here is the de-brief for those that are curious.

Car lost spark way back in May. First thing Pops did was to replace the coil without testing much. In the absence of diagnostic help, he then traced through the wiring schematic and decided, without any further testing, that the TFI was the next most likely problem and replaced that. The car sat for over three months until I arrived. You taught me about the PIP at which point we pulled the distributor and replaced that. Still no spark. You helped me diagnose that it was not the computer. You helped me understand that the newer coil had proper resistance on the front end, but was open on the back end. We acquired a second new coil yesterday. Still no evidence of spark. Bummer.

As an afterthought, you mentioned “that one time” when the spade connectors failed to connect with the coil, despite the plug being in place. I dreamed about that most of the night.

So first thing this morning, I forcefully pressed the metal spades within the plastic connector into connection and Hallelujah!!! We had spark. Faulty connection of harness to coil. Then, it was a matter of correctly orienting the gear and rotor within the distributor, and timing appropriately. She’s running as good as she ever has!

Spent a few hours putting interior back together, (glove box, AC and console), and called it a winning day. Without the hint about the spade connectors failing to mate, we’d have been towing it to a pro who wanted nothing to do with an electrical bugaboo. So again, I can’t thank you each enough for salvaging our weekend!

I love you guys!

Lance

New-new coil, and we actually had a little hiccup upon cranking it over. But not again. Battery is out of juice, so there’s the possibility of compromised fuel pressure, maybe? Before I give up, I’m gonna charge and crank it with a hot charge. But if that doesn’t do it, I’m hauling it to a pro. I may be failing, but I’m absolutely flailing!

Thanks guys. Pops replaced the coil with new, And the TFI on the side of the distributor with new, but has not replaced the PIP. He does have the pump functioning with key. I suppose that leaves the PIP as suspect. We have not tried jumping power straight to coil yet.

Thanks, and we’ll keep you posted.

Just had a set of oddball rims powder coated at a local refinishing shop. Nicely done. One of the drivers in my household just got up against a curb somewhere and it has a little rash. There are a gazillion variations of silver paint, but none in small quantities. But you know what does come in a lot of variants in tiny quantities? Fingernail polish. Am I setting myself up to regret putting one of these products dotted in on my rim? Is there a more perfect source for small quantities of silver stuff?

Lance

Thank you Daze! I think some folks fail to appreciate how much work you've done for us  in laying this out. It's clear you've spent hours researching and digesting ideas to come up with understanding. And after all that work, you chose to document what you've learned and share that with us for free! So many that frequent this forum share with the masss. Thanks to all of you!

In all sincerity,

Lance

Thanks for the info. I regularly fail to give as complete a picture of the car as I should when posing such questions, but it always seems like I'm writing a book no one will want to read!

I do have some substantial Global West weld-in sub-frame connectors on. I do have a 1" front sway bar, and a rear sway bar as well. I do have a one-piece export brace, and a monte carlo bar. I do have progressive springs. When I originally acquired the car, new, "heavy-duty-but-stockish" arms had been purchased so I used them. I'd bet they are stock copies. I own roller perches but have never installed them. I bought the template and kit for a shelby drop, but also have never executed that plan.

I suspect the only slop I have yet to attack is the Randall's rack, and that center connector that is shimmed off the backside creating some slop. I fully expected this group to advise me to replace that rack. I fully expected the group to hammer my Granada spindles. When I first assembled the V8 configuration, I had zero indication of bump-steer or any of this wandering. It seems like something developing slop. and the rack seems the next thing to fortify. I'm going to look into strengthening that cantilevered center piece, I suppose. I can't argue with the shelby drop or spring perches. Not sure what else to do.

Always appreciate you guys!

Lance

Hey there Sir Steve!

I would never argue with you regarding the Granada spindles being the root of the problem. However, I put this setup together in 2005, but didn't notice the issue until about a year ago; it used to behave like steering I should be proud of. I imagine if you are right, and the alternative spindles are the ultimate source of the weirdness, it is being amplified by these worn out rubber bushings. I'm hoping these rods tamp the wandering back to an unnoticeable level. I appreciate the sage advice.