Are those hypo exhaust manifolds?

Bearing Bob wrote:

I'll take any of those prices over mine.

No kidding. I just paid 4.14 a gallon for the cheap stuff. Thankfully my C-Max doesn't need to get filled up but once every 6 weeks.

geez. Glad you walked away from that one. 

My 65 convertible is a florida rust bucket. A few years ago I replaced the hood, floor pans and considered replacing the trunk lid. Now I'm repainting so I'll strip the car down replace 90% of my rust.

Off hand I need

Radiator support (bent from a crash I think) 
Driver side headlight bucket (its actually shattered, into 3 big peices)
Battery and drivers inner apron (same issue).
Passenger side (a rust spot directly below the rear door on the frame, no idea if I need a panel or patch it atm)
All around the trunk, so two upper corners (rust through from trunk edge to corner extensions and taillight panel, the worst of the rust on the entire car)
Taillight panel.

I think the corrosion that I can see on farside of the gas tank trunk floor area is limited to around the bolt holes, mild pin holes, the rest of the trunk floor is solid. Quarterpanels seem good except for the very bottoms, where bondo prevents me from knowing exactly whats going on. I can see under the drivers rear passenger window, some fiberglass repair, but I think thats a patch job, don't know how much steel I need there.

What I'm trying to figure out, what else should I get just in case? I'm taking the car to a rust repair shop ($75/hr). Hoping that once they take the car in 3 months, that its a 2 day job and I get her back, so I don't want to waste their time because I'm missing repalcement panels.

Thanks

Jeff
 

I took some pictures, looks like its already been converted to front sump
https://imgur.com/wLnul8n
https://imgur.com/BNYEubq
https://imgur.com/RN2uwzb

Also... if I modify the motor
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/pts/d/el-verano-alum-heads-roller-rockers/7316493674.html
I know nothing about that brand, I would have chosen AFR 165's if I did this, but that looks like a deal?


Josh - Drilling a hole, that I can do. Just large enough for the dipstick tube right? And the Alt bracket if needed.

 

I think since the motor is a 87-93 HO, we can assume its got the AOD (least for now, I'll make the assumption)

What do I need to put a 5.0 into my 65.

Motor Mounts are the same I think?
I recall I need a rear sump oil pan? Do I need a pick up or oil pump or something?
And what mount do I need for the AOD?

How do I merge the electronics?

Bullet Bob wrote:

JeffK wrote:

The mass air is pointed to the left fender, but the bracket that bolts to the fender is modified, didn't have room in this car to have it point to the right. 

Huh?  Pix sure looked to me like the TB was pointing to the right and that's were the MaF was too...as it should be. 
I also noticed the single serpentine belt set up, Josh.  Sure looks like an HO.

 

My mistake (we'll probably see me do that a lot, you've been warned ).

The mass air is pointed to the left fender, but the bracket that bolts to the fender is modified, didn't have room in this car to have it point to the right. 

TKOPerformance wrote:

If it has the plaque mounting area its 100% definitely not a Cobra engine.  The Cobra intake used a totally different plaque. 

The EFI, properly laid out, I think can look just fine.  Most of the wiring is hidden by the intake.  The stock 5.0 intake isn't he prettiest, but there are solutions to that. 

Bingo, that settles that, so I got a stock 5.0. How do I tell if its a mustang one vs regular passenger or truck?  Or what year? And I got the car home now.
 

Yeah, found out the rear flairs were 2.5" wide... um.... no thanks. Can't quite tell on the fronts, but I have to get a better look.

The reason for going fiberglass is... possibly quieter, marginally lighter, more room for my tire so I can drop my car down another inch in the front (and 2" in the rear). All I need is 1" more room, that's all my aesthetics can handle. Mostly I was wondering what the look out for, if they appear to be what I want. 

 

I bought it last night, I'll tow it home tomorrow. We got it fired up on propane and it started right up. It has a nice deep exhaust note. (and promptly died. I'm told it needs a fuel pump and drain the gas tank. (If I do that I got a running bmw with a 5.0)  (I'm quite happy, that the wife who loves bmws, doesn't like this one). Its going to get transplanted into my 65 vert that currently has a 289 & manual 3spd.

There is a B&M Shifter on the AOD, with 4 switches on the sides and some wires going into the car. While I can't confirm due to ignorance, one of the guys was telling the other don't put the propane directly into the throttle body it'll confuse the mass air. I guess its got mass air. I'm not banking on it being a real cobra engine, as long as it runs, its good enough for my vert for now. I'm comfortable enough to pull the motor, remove the EFI and drop it in my mustang.  What I would like I think... is to keep the EFI (just wish it wasn't so ugly compared to a carbed set up)

Visually its a 86 to 93 intake (trapazoid mounting area for the plaque that would normally be there had they not replaced it with a BMW symbol.I see factory headers, and those nice cobra finned valve covers.


I'll keep this thread going, I'm now officially starting the resto-modding of my mustang. 

Whats needed with the 4r70w to put in a car that's a 3spd (I'm assuming I've got a 6bolt 289) 

Hmmm... not an expert on these MBs, but it looks exhausted.