I tightened the nut down with a giant crescent wrench until the wheel would not roll. Then I backed off until the wheel rolled smoothly. I plan on checking it again this weekend to see if there is any loose play.
I will also take off the other front wheel and re-pack the bearings with some fresh grease. I eed brake shoes! I might as well replace them while I am at it! Weekend project.

My right front wheel bearing went out today on my way home from work. I pulled the drum off to see where the noise was coming from. The inner bearing was frozen. All the grease was inside the hub and none on the bearing. I attempted a quick fix witha new set of Chinese bearings.
1966 Mustang 289, manual drum brakes.
Is the inner bearing race pressed in?
I removed the old one with a screw driver and hammer.
How do you get the new one pressed in far enough without using a press?
I was unable to get the inner bearing assembly in far enough to get the seal into place.
How is the best way to remove the bearing race?
The outer race is still in the hub.
New bearings come with new race and it is not recomended to use the old race on a new bearing.
I plan on switching to disc brakes in a few months, I just need to get this fixed. This is my daily driver. I got to catch a ride to work tomorrow.

The radiator keeps puking water. The level will go below the top of the tank. The guage  will then run to 3/4. I keep adding water to keep it from over heating. It runs OK on long trips. I drove it 868 miles from Nashville TN to Saint Petersburg FL. It was much cooler in March when I made the trip. The gauge never moved until I reached Gainsville. The car runs terrible and oil pressure drops once temp is half way. You can feel radiant heat coming through the fire wall. I drive 20-30 minutes to work every day in heavy traffic. The car pukes water and hisses every time I park it after driving in the heat. I believe the 3 row radiator and a better fan will keep the car cool in heavy traffic.
I bought the car from my uncle, he bought it new! He claims it never ran hot with him. It took him 48 years to put 107,000 miles on it. He never drove it much. Mostly sat in the barn outside of Nashville, TN! Country driving is different than city driving. I doubt he ever sat in 45 minute traffic with 100 degrees outside.
MS...thanks for your advise!

My 1966 Mustang 289 is starting to run hot in this FL heat in traffic. It is a 3 speed manual, with no AC, no power anything. The engine is rebuilt with .030 over and runs perfect with original 2 barrel carb. I have the original 2 row radiator with 4 blade fan. I flushed the radiator and engine and changed thermostat to 180. I filled it with distilled water and a bottle of "hy-per lube" super coolant. The guage moves to half way very quickly while sitting at a red light. This is what it was doing before I changed the thermostat and flushed it out. I found a nearly new 3 row radiator that I plan on installing. I would like to know if I should change the thermostat to a 160 degree? I would like to know which fan option will work the best? I have a nice 18" flex fan still in the box, but it looks too large and I believe it will slice my hoses. Will a 5 blade or 6 blade work OK? Should I convert to a flex fan? or should I go with a fan clutch?

What are my best choice for converting from drum to disc on a 1966 with original V-8 and 3 spd manual transmission? Currently has single reservoir master cylinder. What duel MC should I use? Can I upgrade to power also? if so which booster will work, and which MC to match?
I am new to the Forum. I just recently purchased my 1966 Mustang Convertible from my wife's uncle. He purchased it new in 1966. I drove it 868 miles to get it home. It runs great! I will post pictures once the forum allows it.

Thanks