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After seeing your pics I was starting to think you were crazy, after watching a few of those videos I know you are. Good luck with it! It will be worth the trip to the bash just to see it.
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wsinsle wrote:
After seeing your pics I was starting to think you were crazy, after watching a few of those videos I know you are. Good luck with it! It will be worth the trip to the bash just to see it.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^X-2^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ !!
6s6
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Since you're in that deep, might as well remove the cowl and replace the cowl vents. I'm betting they're about like the rest of the car. Probably pretty easy to get at everything with the front frame off.
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I ordered new cowls and rocker panels yesterday. Running out of sheet metal to replace at this point.
I am changing up the rebuild process a little. Since the floor pan is my square and leveled point of reference I plan on building it up with the wheel wells and the new rocker panels. Basically I am going to work from the back of the car forwards. I have a lot of metal being shipped from CJ over next couple of weeks.
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I have a friend that bought a 65 convertible new. He took the car on his honeymoon. Drove the car for like 15 years then sold it to a friend telling him that if he ever wanted to sell it, let him know and he'd buy it back. Fast forward many years - the friend wanted to sell the car so he called my friend to let him know. My friend's daughter was going to be getting married in a year and he thought it might be cool to get her the car that he and her mom took on their honeymoon. He bought it back, but it was a complete rust bucket. His cousin who was an expert restoration guy and had his own shop, rebuilt that car from the firewall back and forward and had it ready for her wedding. (my friend is a doctor so money wasn't a problem...) That's the most sheet metal replacement on any Mustang that I have seen. It was the sentimental reasons that drove him to do that much work on that car.
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Mochaman
I'm glad you decided to keep going with the repair.
Believe me it seems like a huge mountain to climb.
Take it as one repair at a time.
When I started the repairs on my vert I thought that new long floor pans
and cowl vent patches were the major repairs.
Turned out to be more, much more. The body tub is now within 95% repaired.
If you need to confirm any measurements just drop me a message in my inbox.
My car has not been involved in any major accidents.
Eat the elephant one bite at a time.
Cman 66
P.S. I don't believe there are any rust free Mustangs left on the planet.
Way too much bare steel left in places when they were assembled.
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Be darn sure you take all those new panels with the poorly formed flanges and dolly those flanges to crisp edges like the originals had before you attempt to weld anything together. If you don’t nothing will align properly.
I would invest in about 300 Clecos to do mock up before actual welding. The part you weld on and bury two layers under other stuff is the one that will determine all your quarter and door gaps.
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Lots of luck on this project, keep the updates coming.
Not to further complicate this project, but you might want to consider adding sub-frame connectors, mini-tubs and, maybe, an MII front suspension during this undertaking.
Once again, lots of luck.
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Look at.
stuff for sale for used Clecoes. They would be cheaper than new and probably used to build only one airplane so not very worn out.Offline
I already have some Clecoe 1/8" holders, mini clamps and the pliers. I did go to Brown Aviation and bout a few more plus a bunch of 1/8 drill bits and a carbide burr set.
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Mochaman wrote:
I already have some Clecoe 1/8" holders, mini clamps and the pliers. I did go to Brown Aviation and bout a few more plus a bunch of 1/8 drill bits and a carbide burr set.
you gotta 'burr-motor"?...........If not, you can put a burr in a formica mini- router. They spin up BIG TIME!
10,000-12,000 RPM......Just be careful they 'get-an-attitude' if you don't hold on to'em real tight. They WILL eat up some metal though!
6sal6
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I did a test fit of the Wheel wells I just got in the mail. Used the Clecoe clamps I have that don't require drilling. Passenger side fit nice and tight with a little metal adjustment with some sheet metal hammers. The Drivers side gap is needing a lot more adjustment. No welding happens until I can get the floor set with the rear end fenders, seat frame and rocker panels, then see how the wheel wells fit.
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This car is not through with metal that needs to be changed. I thought the rear Quarter panel were going to be just fine. Then after removing the wheel wells and getting a closer look I find that these were skins that were put on and have a lot of bondo trying to smooth out the bad skin install. I tried to order the rear quarters from CJPony but their shipping costs were almost as much as the parts were going to cost. I find that I can get them later but shipped directly to Summit in Arlington for free. CJ was over 300 bucks. Easy choice there. Very similar cost. On a similar note. Dallas Mustang shut down permanently. Who knew this? What is the part name for the little piece of metal that spans the wheel well to B-Pillar? Can you buy them?
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Apparently the pictures didn't make the cut.
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Gota give you credit man, really do. If that was my car I would've had to sound proof the garage first. They still would hear me cussing the next town over. Keep the pics coming.
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Man that’s a lot of work. I love seeing them brought back to life!!!
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Dammmm thats nice work!!! Your next Bud Light is on me.
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This car is getting so light the gas mileage is going to be fantastic.
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Quarter mile time is dropping too!
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