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Is there a maximum number of degrees that can be dialled in? At 10 to 12 BTDC my idle is really rough, smooths right out at 14-16
I’m playing around with the timing chasing a ping on application of throttle in third gear at low revs. No noticeable knock at any other rpm.
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I use to set it all by ear. If I had hard starts when hot, then it was advanced to much and any sort of pinging means you either need a higher octane fuel and or retard the timing. Do you have a stock distributor or after market? Bigger cam and carb?
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TDC on this 331 has been verified and new timing tape installed.
The distributor is a Crane optical trigger, with electronic vacuum and advance settings.
Holley 670 Street Avenger has been working perfectly.
Cam is a Comp 35-440-8, 200o -5500, 110 LSA, 220 duration in&out @ .050” lift.
The engine always had this slight knock condition, it starts hot or cold perfectly going through the three stages of idle on warm up.
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You can go that high on initial timing, but if you do, you need to make sure you limit your total advance accordingly.
I had an engine in another car that had a pretty big camshaft in it, and I think I set that one at 16 or 18 degrees initial. Doing that really helped clean up and smooth out the idle. But I also changed the bushings in the distributor to limit the mechanical advance to 20 degrees so that my total advance wasn't more than 36 or 38 degrees.
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That sounds reassuring Chaplin.
Cutting back on the total is not an issue since the distributor has 9 electronic settings for total and what rpm it comes in at. Also has 3 settings for advance curve and amount.
Soon as the rain here clears up I’ll try to get back at it.
Thanks for the insight guys, much appreciated.
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You rode in mine.........(remember?!)
I have total of 36*(using the tape)........lightest springs so it's all in by 2000RPM (or sooner)
No knock and spins good when hot.
Sometimes.....You gotta 'pull-it-out-and-play-with-it" to get the curve you want. (I saw a commercial about that , I think!?!
)
Anywho...
Every engine is different......all according to how efficient the heads/burn is, I think
6sal6
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6sally6 wrote:
You rode in mine.........(remember?!)
I have total of 36*(using the tape)........lightest springs so it's all in by 2000RPM (or sooner)
No knock and spins good when hot.
Sometimes.....You gotta 'pull-it-out-and-play-with-it" to get the curve you want. (I saw a commercial about that , I think!?!![]()
)
Anywho...
Every engine is different......all according to how efficient the heads/burn is, I think
6sal6
How could I forget that ride Mike, it contributed to my tinnitus.
As for pulling it out and playing with it, I can’t, arthritis in both hands and wrists
Do you think Edelbrock Performers are classed as fast burn or efficient heads?
Last edited by Rudi (3/28/2021 4:34 PM)
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Yep!
They ain't AFR butt......they ain't stock by any stretch either. Instead of 36-42* they MAY make the best power at 32-34*. That's where the "teenager feel'in" comes in! (Set it at 36-38* and "TAKE-IT-FER-A-TEST-RUN"....bring it back and see how34-36* "feels"!) Remember it's 'best' to do FULL-POWER-RUNS when doing the "testing".
Maybe smoke a cee-gar when you're do'in it.
6s6
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Given your setup I would start at 32 degrees of total timing ad go up from there, but its unlikely it would want or tolerate more than 36.
Initial timing is only part of the puzzle. How much mechanical advance does it have? Can the mechanical advance be modified for more or less advance? Usually you want lower initial timing for easy hot starts, good idle, etc. You make up the rest with mechanical advance. With an LSA that tight the idle is going to be a bit rough. I don't think that's timing related.
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Well I’ve never ran anything other that stock. But when I would chase problems I would unplugged the advance all together to see if things changed.
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