NHRA mandates one at 11.99 or quicker.  It all depends on how you are going to use the car.  Explosions happen at high RPM, and traction plays a role.  In a street car you probably couldn't do it, unless you shifted from like 5th to 1st instead of 3rd or something crazy, but honestly I know guys who've done that and nothing blew up except the engine...

Last edited by TKOPerformance (11/12/2021 11:38 AM)

Bullet Bob wrote:

Dumping the 4r70w, huh?  What were you controlling it with and will the controller be for sale?

Im using the quick 4 from Baumann works great. Everything is in Sweden and is actually sold but I have not removed it from the car yet. Controllers etc are hard to find used here.

Well thanks for the input regard the bellhousing, Il probably go with aluminum, only power shifting will probably 1-2-3-4 
Im thinking maybe centerforce clutch and  flywheel, and malwood under dash kit for hydraulic throw out bearing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYnAnXwVD-A




 

TKOPerformance wrote:

I'm not a fan of Centerforce clutches with hydraulics for clutch actuation.  I would contact Pro Motion Performance and have them build you a clutch to your exact needs.  Same price or less than most performance clutches with much better manners. 

If you had to pick an of the shelf clutch from Summit what would it be ? Hayes MCleod ? 
 

TKOPerformance wrote:

Probably McLeod.  That's the brand Hanlon Motorsports stocks, and I trust Bob's judgement.

Thanks :-)
 

Personally I'm not a huge fan of hydraulics.  I find they provide a numb pedal that makes the engagement/disengagement point hard to find based on the pressure you apply.  A cable or other mechanical linkage is better in that regard.  Hydraulics I guess are easier on your left leg, but I grew up driving dump trucks with three finger clutches in them, so no car's clutch has ever bothered my left leg.  Feel wise I think the difference is night and day.

Well I went with Mcleod Flywheel, cluth, hydraulic bearing etc and Quicktime bellhousing. Sonnax Yoke, Il be back with some pictures when Everything arrives :-)

As TKO says, I am running a McLeod bell in my race car which is a 95. I had to run the shorter input on the TKO I started with. I am not aware of an explosion proof bell for the SN95 longer input shaft. I had to add a spacer to the pinion flange to make up for the shorter set-up.

Com 'on man!!
NOT gonna drag race it
Prolly won't spin it above 6000RPM (if that!)
No slicks
Prolly not a sub-12 second car
WHY would you need a scattershield  or even worry about an Alum. bell being strong enough?
I used a NAPA clutch/pressure plate 5+ years ago and ....drive-it-like-I-stole-it on a regular basis!

RELAX.....save your bread....Tell your buddies you NEED a blow-up proof clutch and scattershield because of the insane HP you are running!
They'll never know the difference unless you tell'um
Half the people that hear mine think it's a  BOSS 302!!!
6sally6

When ya gonna put that gear drive in Sally to go with your exhaust?