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Looking at adding an air line system in my garage. Amazon has several to pick from. This kit appears to have the best reviews on Amazon and google. Any one have any experience with any of these kits, cheaper kits?
I would buy more 90 degree fittings so this kit with extra fittings will run $300. I want to have clean turns at the wall and ceiling points. 
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I just don't know if I trust that stuff.
When I did mine, I soldered in the thicker copper. Can't remember if that is type L or M since I don't do it every day but it has held up well and such. Although I suppose copper is through the roof in price anymore.
I've seen people use pcv! To me, that is crazy! I even worked at a plastic injection moulding facility once that had pcv. I wondered how that passed inspection. That is an explosion waiting to kill someone.
I guess what bothers me the most in a kit like that is the lines. I've seen a few times what happens when an air hose breaks. That is also a deadly weapon. But I guess if there are many points of securing the lines every so often it be ok.
I'd also say the generation older than me would probably say, copper lines? That's dangerous, Sonny! Shount be using anything other than iron pipe!
I hope you find a lot that works for you.
Last edited by Greg B (8/18/2025 9:26 AM)
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Giving the cost of the kit I hadn't thought about black pipe. That may be a lot cheaper and safer.
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RTM wrote:
Giving the cost of the kit I hadn't thought about black pipe. That may be a lot cheaper and safer.
Out of ignorance, I have to ask, wouldn't galvanized be much better, given that the moisture content of compressed air tends to be pretty high? Especially so for a home garage where air may "sit" in the piping for longer periods of time.
Last edited by John Ha (8/18/2025 11:51 AM)
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I install this kit years ago. 150 ft worth. i have not had any problems with it .
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Not sure it's clear from the picture, but it is aluminum pipe. I've been looking at RapidAir for a while, but my Milwaukee purchases have slowed that down.
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I used the 3/4” blue kit like that. I have been very happy with it.
The blue plastic tubing has an aluminum tube inside. I added a mount every 16” into the studs/rafters.
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I would not use any kind of plastic pipe. I've seen too much of it fail over the years with pressures much lower than what air lines will see. I've seen guys use CPVC and PVC over the years, but I decided against it. It become brittle over time, and I've seen it shatter. There are various kinds of polyethylene that may work fine, and last (PEX would be an option, though after dealing with the damage caused by polybutylene in my professional life for years I'm gun shy about PEX).
Black iron or galvanized pipe is an option, but its all threaded connections which are time consuming during construction, and a pain to splice into if you ever have to change anything.
I did mine with 1/2" copper pipe. Fittings just get sweated on, which I've done for years, so no problem there. If you have a connection you may need to take apart in the future you can just use Shark Bite fittings (too expensive to do the whole system that way IMO, though it would eliminate the need to sweat joints). Tying in another drop is also easy in the future, just cut out a section and install a tee. Now, the downside is that copper has become pricey again. Home Depot is listing 10' 1/2" L copper at $35/stick. It was $10/stick when I did my system. However, I'll also say that Home Depot is not the cheapest for plumbing stuff. A supply house will probably shave 20% off the cost of everything. They will also sell copper in 20' sticks if you have long straight runs and want to avoid couplings and the associated labor.
Whatever you use my advice would be not to use anything that uses proprietary fittings. The best part about my setup is that any fitting I need is available at any hardware, big box, or plumbing supply store, and are cheap. I also added isolation valves (ball valves) so I can change a hose connector, work on my sandblaster, etc. without having to shut down the compressor and drain the whole system.
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Greg B wrote:
I just don't know if I trust that stuff.
When I did mine, I soldered in the thicker copper. Can't remember if that is type L or M since I don't do it every day but it has held up well and such. Although I suppose copper is through the roof in price anymore.
I've seen people use pcv! To me, that is crazy! I even worked at a plastic injection moulding facility once that had pcv. I wondered how that passed inspection. That is an explosion waiting to kill someone.
I guess what bothers me the most in a kit like that is the lines. I've seen a few times what happens when an air hose breaks. That is also a deadly weapon. But I guess if there are many points of securing the lines every so often it be ok.
I'd also say the generation older than me would probably say, copper lines? That's dangerous, Sonny! Shount be using anything other than iron pipe!
I hope you find a lot that works for you.
Almost certainly you used L copper. M copper is soft and was outlawed for home use decades ago, so though you might still be able to get it somewhere its not really readily available any more. It came in a roll. L copper is the most common, and its a hard copper. K is better than L, but also more expensive. Primarily K resists corrosion a bit better, which I would consider if I was plumbing a house that had well water, but for air lines I don't see the advantage. Nothing has corroded in my system (L copper) after a decade.
Copper pipe is perfectly safe for use in an air system. I got the idea from my neighbor who is a professional mechanic. His shop is plumbed with copper. His has been that way for almost 3 decades without issue. Copper pipe has a burst strength of nearly 4,000psi, and soldered joints are insanely strong (I've seen them destructive tested where the base metal failed before the solder joint).
Last edited by TKOPerformance (8/19/2025 8:55 AM)
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Here is a picture of one side of my set up. Drains at the end of the run to let water out.
The business side has another hose reel like that one and a few quick connects. Haven't really ever needed to add more.
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I would not use black pipe, or even galvanized pipe, as any moisture in the system will cause rust that can flake off and cause small particles to by-pass even if filters are installed at the end fittings and create problems with air tools and especially with paint spray guns.
I worked in electric power plants that used compressed air for the control systems and most used cooper or brass piping to avoid that problem. The ones that did use black pipe typically had issues with it.
Also, the pressure ratings on the three types of cooper tubing (K, L & M) are well above the 100psi that air systems typically use.
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When I was working at my ex's cylinder cart manufacturing company, we changed from individual 250 cf inert gas cylinders at the welding stations to large tanks with piping to the stations. I worked with a buddy from Air Liquide on the project, and used a plastic type of tube with compression fittings that has held up well for over twenty years. Nothing wrong with the right kind of plastic.
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rpm wrote:
When I was working at my ex's cylinder cart manufacturing company, we changed from individual 250 cf inert gas cylinders at the welding stations to large tanks with piping to the stations. I worked with a buddy from Air Liquide on the project, and used a plastic type of tube with compression fittings that has held up well for over twenty years. Nothing wrong with the right kind of plastic.
In fairness though, where did that plastic come from? If it came from Air Liquide its probably something exotic and expensive. I've done work for them in their Newport, DE plant for over a decade now. Their safety program was modeled after DuPont's. They take no chances with anything.
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The kit I was looking at is lined with aluminum.
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BobE wrote:
I would not use black pipe, or even galvanized pipe, as any moisture in the system will cause rust that can flake off and cause small particles to by-pass even if filters are installed at the end fittings and create problems with air tools and especially with paint spray guns.
I worked in electric power plants that used compressed air for the control systems and most used cooper or brass piping to avoid that problem. The ones that did use black pipe typically had issues with it.
Also, the pressure ratings on the three types of cooper tubing (K, L & M) are well above the 100psi that air systems typically use.
We used black schedule 40 pipe in the airplane factory where I did Facilities design. Over 4 million square feet with that stuff running everywhere.
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Some great information guys. Thanks.
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MS wrote:
BobE wrote:
I would not use black pipe, or even galvanized pipe, as any moisture in the system will cause rust that can flake off and cause small particles to by-pass even if filters are installed at the end fittings and create problems with air tools and especially with paint spray guns.
I worked in electric power plants that used compressed air for the control systems and most used cooper or brass piping to avoid that problem. The ones that did use black pipe typically had issues with it.
Also, the pressure ratings on the three types of cooper tubing (K, L & M) are well above the 100psi that air systems typically use.We used black schedule 40 pipe in the airplane factory where I did Facilities design. Over 4 million square feet with that stuff running everywhere.
The shop we had for the family business used black iron pipe. It seemed to work just fine, but we didn't paint anything there. All the air was used for air tools. I will say that there was absolutely scale and junk in those lines though. One time I removed a quick coupler from one of the legs and a bunch of nastiness came out. I think black iron pipe was an old school way of dong air lines, and for the variety of reasons noted here it would not be my first choice if I was plumbing my shop from scratch today.
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TKOPerformance wrote:
MS wrote:
BobE wrote:
I would not use black pipe, or even galvanized pipe, as any moisture in the system will cause rust that can flake off and cause small particles to by-pass even if filters are installed at the end fittings and create problems with air tools and especially with paint spray guns.
I worked in electric power plants that used compressed air for the control systems and most used cooper or brass piping to avoid that problem. The ones that did use black pipe typically had issues with it.
Also, the pressure ratings on the three types of cooper tubing (K, L & M) are well above the 100psi that air systems typically use.We used black schedule 40 pipe in the airplane factory where I did Facilities design. Over 4 million square feet with that stuff running everywhere.
The shop we had for the family business used black iron pipe. It seemed to work just fine, but we didn't paint anything there. All the air was used for air tools. I will say that there was absolutely scale and junk in those lines though. One time I removed a quick coupler from one of the legs and a bunch of nastiness came out. I think black iron pipe was an old school way of dong air lines, and for the variety of reasons noted here it would not be my first choice if I was plumbing my shop from scratch today.
I'll add that if the air system is kept dry, there shouldn't be any problems with moisture and any resulting rusting issues. However, I will also say that air systems aren't always maintained like they should. A desiccant drying system works best, but again, it needs to be maintained.
I have not heard any complaints from people regarding failures of their plastic piped air systems, but still need to have moisture controls.
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I used an industrial system developed by Parker-Hannifin.
It’s a semi rigid and flexible plastic air line with push in brass connections,it is very versatile and easy to install. For me it was the easiest to run the lines up at the ceiling and also a line up to the second floor where I have a 1/2 ton air hoist and sand blast cabinet
Last edited by Rudi (8/20/2025 4:39 PM)
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Nice shop MS.
I'll start on the airline project once I get the stripes and little things done on the mustang. Getting ahead of myself again.
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RTM wrote:
Nice shop MS.
I'll start on the airline project once I get the stripes and little things done on the mustang. Getting ahead of myself again.
Airline? You gonna build a plane? Check with RV6, he's built a few. 😆
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rpm wrote:
RTM wrote:
Nice shop MS.
I'll start on the airline project once I get the stripes and little things done on the mustang. Getting ahead of myself again.
Airline? You gonna build a plane? Check with RV6, he's built a few. 😆
I helped my neighbor restore an AT6 Texan, and helped my uncle built an ultralight, which we flew out of the field between out houses. Airplanes are a lot of fun!
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TKOPerformance wrote:
rpm wrote:
RTM wrote:
Nice shop MS.
I'll start on the airline project once I get the stripes and little things done on the mustang. Getting ahead of myself again.
Airline? You gonna build a plane? Check with RV6, he's built a few. 😆I helped my neighbor restore an AT6 Texan, and helped my uncle built an ultralight, which we flew out of the field between out houses. Airplanes are a lot of fun!
Well I did want to be a fighter pilot. Lol
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RTM wrote:
TKOPerformance wrote:
rpm wrote:
Airline? You gonna build a plane? Check with RV6, he's built a few. 😆I helped my neighbor restore an AT6 Texan, and helped my uncle built an ultralight, which we flew out of the field between out houses. Airplanes are a lot of fun!
Well I did want to be a fighter pilot. Lol
Said everyone who ever went into the military to fly, both my grandfathers included ![]()
It didn't work out for either of them either. One trained pilots to fly the SBD; the other flew a scout observation airplane off a cruiser. He did get into a dogfight off Gela in '43 though. What's left of his aircraft is on the bottom of the Med. There's an Me109 near it though, so I guess he was only 4 kills away from being an ace.
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