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The new STRANGE rear differential came today. Of course, I thoroughly read all the instructions as to their recommendations.
The instructions say, for break-in, to run it gently for fifty miles to get it up to temperature. Them, let it cool completely. Then, drive it easy for 250 miles and let it cool down. Then, remove the third member, clean it thoroughly, and stick it back in the car with new lube.
REALLY????????????? REMOVE IT AND CLEAN IT AND REINSTALL IT?????????????
How many of YOU would do this procedure when installing a new third member? Maybe they should have just cleaned it better then they assembled it the first time?
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Yep I've done this for every new diff I put in,,
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When I put the 3.25 gears and Auburn traction control in my 8" chunk I followed the drive and cool recommended procedure but no way did I do a fluid change. The maker of the gears"Motive Gear" did not have that specification.
I don't remember the factory shop manual that I used to set up the gears, mentioning any break in procedure.
After many thousands of miles there is no noise or issues.
Last edited by Rudi (3/02/2020 9:32 PM)
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Not me for sure! Closest I'd get would be an oil change after the 250 miles. Maybe send a sample for analysis.
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"Reading instructions is a sure sign of weakness."
6s6
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Glad you asked the question. My new rear axle is from Strange and I received the same instructions with mine and thought they were strange too.
The idea of removing the 3rd member to clean it sounds a little over the top. Drain, flush and refill is what I think I will be doing.
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Just like in a new engine there's a lot of junk generated by gear break in. The difference is that engine oil is much thinner and a lot more of it runs out when you change it, plus there's a filter in the system actively removing trash from the oil.
It's really only a problem because you have to remove the third member to get access to the guts. That means pulling the wheels, the brakes, the axles, etc. A lot of work for sure. On a Salisbury type rear you'd have to pull the cover to change the oil. Anytime I do that I do clean everything off.
That said, I haven't done an 8 or 9" in a long time. Not even sure I changed the fluid after break in on the ones I did. No failures to report, but those vehicles don't see a lot of miles. I'd at a minimum change the oil. If Strange is offering a warranty, then I'd follow their instructions to the letter. God forbid there's a problem and they deny your warranty claim because you didn't.
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Should be a way to “bench” break them in.
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I'm sure Ford did it each and every time, but on the other hand, life is to short to waste time like that.
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Don wrote:
Yep I've done this for every new diff I put in,,
Yeah, well... Those who know you know that means zero times, Don.
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Well...if it were me, I would not publish my questions as to the good sense of their break-in instructions.
I would publish how much I appreciated their attention to detail and concern over my having a satisfying experience with their product. I would publish that while following their instructions will definitely take up some of my valuable time, I absolutely want to have a successful outcome so I will be following those instructions to the letter.
That's what I would post on a public forum.
BB
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If your housing and all are really clean when you install the pig into it, there would be no need to remove to clean again. If you doubt the cleanliness of the unit you bought, clean it before install and make sure axle housing is lickable clean before you install. When I install new gears, I do a break in run at half throttle or so and let cool. Never had an issue with gear set failure in all the hundreds I have done. Sounds to me that they are being over cautious so they have more reason to deny warranty. In my days at Eaton Axle I ran hundreds of gear sets on the dyno and saw very little junk generated by gear set break in. Near all of the junk was all the crap left on the other parts from production. Most good gear sets were lapped in after being matched gear to pinion. Then they went through washing and lubrite which put that nice black finish on.
According to the Gleason Gear Cutter folks good gear sets require very little break in because of the manufacturing methods used. Of course they are assuming the gear set was set-up properly.
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i would remove if you see a lot of metal on the magnet plug.. if not.. SEND IT :D
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After installing the new gears, I set it up on jack stands and let idle in third gear for 30 minutes to give it some run time before driving. Don't remember how long I drove it before I started abusing it!!! At this point, it has more than 500 miles and I haven't changed the fluid.
The gears did hold up better than the crank shaft!!
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Out of curiosity,...here we go..
Does that have a Torsen differential?
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I do the above-mentioned “30 minute-idle on jack stands”. Then I do figure eights forward and backward to break in the trac-lock clutches. Then I let it cool. Change fluid later.
Never tried aluminum. I have a strong magnet attached to bottom of OEM housing.
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The last one I did, and it's been a while, was a 9" Detroit Locker. I installed the 3rd member, got everything put back together, drove to the end of the street, and stomped on it Of all the things I blew up in my car that rear end was not one of them!
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My CURRIE rear end break in instructions were: drive normally for 15-20 minutes, then stop and let the rear end cool down for 30 minutes. Repeat 3-4 times. Change the oil at 500 miles.
The housing came from the factory with a strong magnet glued to the bottom of the housing.
Last edited by Hornman (3/03/2020 1:08 PM)
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Does the strange housing have a drain plug ? I thought it was pretty lame that my Currie 9' housing didn't have one. I probably should have installed one myself before installing.
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1fststang wrote:
Does the strange housing have a drain plug ? I thought it was pretty lame that my Currie 9' housing didn't have one. I probably should have installed one myself before installing.
Does the gear carrier not have a drain port?
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1fststang wrote:
Does the strange housing have a drain plug ? I thought it was pretty lame that my Currie 9' housing didn't have one. I probably should have installed one myself before installing.
Yes, Strange has a drain plug in the housing (or at least mine does). I figure that will make it easy to drain it, then flush it out a couple of times and then refill.
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6sally6 wrote:
"Reading instructions is a sure sign of weakness."
6s6
lol!
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Bullet Bob wrote:
Well...if it were me, I would not publish my questions as to the good sense of their break-in instructions.
I would publish how much I appreciated their attention to detail and concern over my having a satisfying experience with their product. I would publish that while following their instructions will definitely take up some of my valuable time, I absolutely want to have a successful outcome so I will be following those instructions to the letter.
That's what I would post on a public forum.
BB
Bullet, obviously I will follow their instructions to the letter. I was merely asking HOW MANY OF YOU would follow them if put in that situation!
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Steve69 wrote:
6sally6 wrote:
"Reading instructions is a sure sign of weakness."
6s6lol!
Next we'll all be asking for directions.
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I followed the basic same steps when I installed new gears in my 9.75 axle in my F150. if you don't let the gears work hardened you can really shorten the life of them.
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