This setup looks like it will sit out of the housing a bit further than the type that the OEM provided when they did install a drain plug.  I'd be cautious with not having it extend too far out of the housing, bad things can happen if something hits it. 

You absolutely don't want any leaks. As often as I've been changing gears mine sure has paid fit itself. Don't know why I didn't add an easier to access fill hole.

For the drain in the bottom you can offset the bung so its not in the way of the floor jack.  Toyota axles are done this way.  They also have a ring around them, raised to the same height as the plug to prevent damage to the plug from tail obstacles.  I'd be money that the oil around the plug was from oil working its way around the threads on the plug.  This is why I put a little RTV on the back side of the washer before installing the pinion nut.  Otherwise the oil will work its way along the splines and create a film around the washer and make it look like you have a pinion oil seal leak. 

I drilled a hole in a hockey puck that sits on the floor jack pad. The drain plug is aligned with the puck hole and doesn't touch metal.

Bearing Bob wrote:

I drilled a hole in a hockey puck that sits on the floor jack pad. The drain plug is aligned with the puck hole and doesn't touch metal.

  Thanks for the Idea!  My son played hockey so I have a bag of hockey pucks somewhere in the basement...LOL  
 

A slotted hockey puck is good for jack pad on pinch welds.
Thank Canada for them  hard rubber slugs, cept  when one from a slap shot hits your ankle.

MS wrote:

That looks like the one that was on my car. The big piece is a fill port that goes at the top. Mine always had oily residue around it even though the welds were not leaking.
The drain on the bottom, at first, seems like a plus but, to me, it just got in the way of my floor jack when I placed it under the rear end. A vacuum tube placed into the original fill port is a good way to remove old fluid. If you change fluid alot, the drain plug is probably the way to go but, in reality, does that ever happen unless the entire diff is being removed? Thanks for the pics!   Gives me a idea on the brake lines and where to put the bracket for the hoses!  

All that considered, when I had the new housing built, I had it done without the extra parts.

MS wrote:

Steve69, I have better pics of the brake lines if you need them. Or, check out my virtual bash pictures on the BASH forum. I documented most details like that in a bunch of pictures, so they would be readily available for this type thing.

  Thanks for the info!
 

The kids bought me this last Christmas and it drilled through the axle in 40 seconds.  This works really well for drilling holes through metal.   Spyder Bi-Metal Hole Saw Kit - 13 Piece 884835005405 | eBay   Menards has it on sale through December 6th for $39.99.

Last edited by Steve69 (11/29/2020 10:45 AM)

TKOPerformance wrote:

Yep, available at Lowes as well.  They will bore through most anything that will trash a hole saw.  I use them all the time to drill through asbestos siding (which is really a misnomer, the siding is made from cement; the asbestos is just a reinforcing fiber).  I've drilled through cementuous floor leveler as well with zero issue and it did not dull the saw. 

  After using this I tossed all my other hole saws that I have.