The upper stone guard?  

Definitely a truck block.  The valley bosses could be drilled and taped to use factory roller cam hardware.  Think that missing chunk of cylinder probably relegates it to the boat anchor pile though.  

rpm wrote:

RTM wrote:

Nice shop MS.

I'll start on the airline project once I get the stripes and little things done on the mustang. Getting ahead of myself again.

 
Airline? You gonna build a plane? Check with RV6, he's built a few. 😆

I helped my neighbor restore an AT6 Texan, and helped my uncle built an ultralight, which we flew out of the field between out houses.  Airplanes are a lot of fun!
 

MS wrote:

Gaba wrote:

Well - I am at this point Now that I need the hose for drivers side routed and I’m needing some pics of what been done by others with a MS cable clutch and vintage air AC vents .

Squash the hose nearly flat and run it above the pedal support, right under the cowl floor. It will still flow just fine

That's where the hose runs in my '67 that has a factory AC system.  
 

rpm wrote:

When I was working at my ex's cylinder cart manufacturing company, we changed from individual 250 cf inert gas cylinders at the welding stations to large tanks with piping to the stations. I worked with a buddy from Air Liquide on the project, and used a plastic type of tube with compression fittings that has held up well for over twenty years. Nothing wrong with the right kind of plastic.

In fairness though, where did that plastic come from?  If it came from Air Liquide its probably something exotic and expensive.  I've done work for them in their Newport, DE plant for over a decade now.  Their safety program was modeled after DuPont's.  They take no chances with anything.  
 

I would not use any kind of plastic pipe.  I've seen too much of it fail over the years with pressures much lower than what air lines will see.  I've seen guys use CPVC and PVC over the years, but I decided against it.  It become brittle over time, and I've seen it shatter.  There are various kinds of polyethylene that may work fine, and last (PEX would be an option, though after dealing with the damage caused by polybutylene in my professional life for years I'm gun shy about PEX).  

Black iron or galvanized pipe is an option, but its all threaded connections which are time consuming during construction, and a pain to splice into if you ever have to change anything.

I did mine with 1/2" copper pipe.  Fittings just get sweated on, which I've done for years, so no problem there.  If you have a connection you may need to take apart in the future you can just use Shark Bite fittings (too expensive to do the whole system that way IMO, though it would eliminate the need to sweat joints).  Tying in another drop is also easy in the future, just cut out a section and install a tee.  Now, the downside is that copper has become pricey again.  Home Depot is listing 10' 1/2" L copper at $35/stick.  It was $10/stick when I did my system.  However, I'll also say that Home Depot is not the cheapest for plumbing stuff.  A supply house will probably shave 20% off the cost of everything.  They will also sell copper in 20' sticks if you have long straight runs and want to avoid couplings and the associated labor.  

Whatever you use my advice would be not to use anything that uses proprietary fittings.  The best part about my setup is that any fitting I need is available at any hardware, big box, or plumbing supply store, and are cheap.  I also added isolation valves (ball valves) so I can change a hose connector, work on my sandblaster, etc. without having to shut down the compressor and drain the whole system.  

TimC wrote:

Thanks!  Exactly what I was looking for! (well, one of the things I am looking for....)

Incidentally, the machinist I am using introduced me to Reflex exhaust gaskets.  The manifold for this 6 cylinder has been off, previously, and not reinstalled properly.  It was cracked and leaked from every exhaust port, and leaked long enough that all the port surfaces on the head were pitted.  The machinist milled the exhaust flange surface down a bit but told me to get a Reflex gasket, which is thicker, and squishes.  We will see.

http://catalog.remflex.com/aboutus.asp

Interesting, thanks for that link.  They have gaskets for all kinds of vehicles I own, including my WRX.  I've always used OEM gaskets for it and never had an issue, but with tariffs, etc. not sure what those OEM gaskets are going to cost if I had to buy them today.  I'll always give a made in the USA product a go.  
 

Muzz 66 wrote:

TKOPerformance wrote:

The first thing to do IMO is verify that its actually getting hot.  That's why I like knowing where the gauge sender is located.  The temperature in the cooling system is not homogeneous.  Ford likes to read the coolant temp in the intake manifold.  If you read the temperature in the cylinder head or various places on the block, etc. you will get different temperatures.  

Assuming its really getting to 230 a flush is indeed a good first step.  If the bottom 1/4 or 1/3 of the radiator is packed full of junk your cooling capacity will be significantly reduced.  

My ‘92 LX 5.0 has a dash gauge that reads high all the time these days. It also reacts to voltage. Lights on, goes up, fan goes on, goes up, A/C or heater goes up. Even the turn signals will slightly move the needle sometimes. So I installed an Autometer temp gauge. It reads more correctly. The sender for the stock dash gauge is in the intake manifold and the sender for the Autometer is at the top of the thermostat housing. Just today I used some test leads to “switch” sending units to the gauges to see what would happen. The dash gauge needle went dead to the bottom and the Autometer needle maxxed out to the top. WTHeck? Auto electronics are a big mystery to me. Anyone help me out here? I’ll start another thread if need be. Thanks.

Probably better to start a dedicated thread, but I don't know that you can do what you did.  In other words, the Autometer gauge is designed to read off the Autometer sender.  The sender for the stock gauge may simply not be compatible with the Autometer gauge.  Temperature senders work by varying resistance based on temperature.  The scale of the resistance values the sender creates must be matched to the way the gauge is calibrated.  

You can test the stock gauge and sender.  First test the gauge, because I think that's where your problem is, based on your description of the gauge reading.  Turn the k

Where is the temperature sender for the gauge reading 230 located?  

Toploader wrote:

TKO - Is this the kit?

https://cliffordperformance.net/store/ols/products/ford-200-68-combination

Yes.
 

How did you determine it was 230 degrees?

Raymond_B wrote:

Everything I've read is that a T-5 will make a huge difference with the little 6 cylinders. I bet it would end up being cheaper too!

Consider the gearing of a Fox V8 T5, 3.35:1 first, 1.93 second, 1.26 third, 1.00 fourth, and 0.68 5th.  Your overall first gear with a 3.23:1 rear gear would be 10.89:1, a great acceleration first gear for a low RPM engine without a lot of low end grunt.  Then on the highway the OD drops the rear gear to where it acts like a 2.21, so you can cruise at 80 all day long and not be a nuisance to modern traffic.  Meanwhile you've got 4 reasonably close ratio forward speeds making it more enjoyable to run around town with, because it stays in the powerband better.  Definitely an improvement over a non OD 3 speed.  
 

That rear gear is about max for a non OD trans.  The problem is that you'll want a 3.73-4.10 to make power higher in the RPM range.

This is one of those cases where the car as a system needs to work, and to get there its going to cost a lot more than you probably want to spend.  

At some point durability may also be an issue.  Does the car have that spindly 7" rearend?  An 8" would be fine, but if its got the same rear as a common I6 Mustang I'd be real careful with it, even on street tires.