Hey guys!  Thanks for the help!  I replaced the gauage, rechecked the wiring and it appears to be reading correctly now.  I used my infrared temp gun and verified that the thermostat opens at @180 deg.  When this happens, the fan would immediately come on and the guage would register almost 190 to 200 deg and the fan would not turn off as the temp dropped, this was all while sitting still in my driveway.  So I adjusted the fan to come on later at about 200 deg and while sitting still the temp guage stays below 200 deg.  I will take it for a drive when I get home this afternoon.  I'm thinking that once the car gets moving and the air moves through the radiator, the temp will lower and the fan should turn off.  What are you thoughts on the changes?  Thanks again!

Hey guys!  I just installed my new temp gauge on my 289 Mustang and I am having issues.  I connected everything in accordance with the instructions and even installed a new sending unit that came with it.  Now when I turn on the car, the needle bounces all over the place.  I am stumped as to what the problem could be.  Any ideas?  Thanks

Willis

Really?  So it was a total loss system then?  Ok.  I will take a picture of mine and post it so that you can tell me where it came from then.  Thanks!

Thanks guys!  I did pick up a new Stant cap with a lever and it is 13 lbs.  I did notice that the old one did indeed have two gaskets.  I am going to use it today when I get home.  I plan to use Prestone antifreeze and Water Wetter.

Hey guys!  I have some questions concerning the coolant recovery system on my 1965 Mustang with a 289.  I have a Champion aluminum radiator, Old Air Products fan and shroud, a new thermostat (180 deg) and a new water pump.  The radiator has an 11 lb cap that came with the radiator.  When my car heats up, it pushes water to the coolant recovery tank, but will not suck it back into the radiator.  Is there something that I am missing?  Any help will be greatly appreciated!  Thanks!

Willis

Hey guys!  I have some questions about water pumps.  My car overheated and in the process of replacing my thermostat, I noticed that my lower radiator hose was leaking at the water pump.  I removed it and found that some of the outlet was corroded and chipped away.  When I removed the water pump and went looking for a replacement I could not find one locally that did not have the back cover plate.  My car is a 289 v8 with the 4 barrel carb.  The pump that I have taken off is aluminum and does not have the backing plate.  What is the reason for the backing plate and are they interchangeable easily? Should I just order one without a backing plate?  Any advice?  Thanks.

Willis

Thanks for everyone's input!  I appreciate the wealth of information!  I will just use the shelby drop for now and not cut the springs to see how the car sits and then I will look at other options.  I was going for the look that Mustang Steve did on his red (now blue) 65 Mustang coupe and I purchased the combination that he has listed on his ride height page.  It will mainly be a street driven fair weather car, no autocross or drags....  Thanks!  

Good morning guys! I have a 1965 Mustang with factory 289 v8, no power steering or air.  I am now going to buy the Mustangs Plus suspension kit and spring kit.  I am getting the 620 springs and 4 leaf mid eye rear springs with the kyb shocks.  I am going to do the shelby 1 inch drop and cut the front coils by 1/3 as per Mustang Steve's website suggested.  Is there anything that I need to be on the lookout for?  Shoudl I just use the Mustangs Plus regular shocks or are the KYB a good upgrade?  Any alignment specs or recomendations that I need after the shelby drop and coil spring cut?  What is the best way to measure to cut 1/3 off of the coils?  Do I cut from the top or the bottom of the coil?  Thanks for the help!

GPatrick, I did not check the lt. grn/red wire.  I will do that first thing tomorrow morning.  I checked the fuse and it is good.  Just to be sure, you want me to jumper the wire to the ground post on the battery correct?  I am running the factory stock size pulleys.  Thanks.

Okay guys.  Here goes....I went home and put my charger on the battery for about 2 hours.  I checked the voltage and it read 12.6.  When I rev'd the engine it would go only as high as 12.8 to 12.9.  I let it run long enough for the electric cooling fan to turn on and the voltage dropped to 11.2 and held steady.  I rev'd the engine and it barely got above 11.7.  I forgot to check the cranking voltage.  I will do that tomorrow.  That being said, any ideas now?  Is my alternator bad?  Or do I just have a toasted battery?  The cold cranking amps are 525.  Thanks!

My car is a 65 with the Pony interior option.  I thought that the 5 guage cluster was part of this option package?  I used new wiring up to the solenoid (which I replaced) and disconnected the voltage regulator and tapped into the "I" terminal wire near the battery.  I did not remove any stock wiring between the solenoid and voltage regulator. I have all new battery cables.  I will get my battery load tested this weekend.  Thanks!

Hey guys.  I have converted my '65 Mustang from the factory alternator to a 130 amp 3G alternator.  I don's have an alternator light, I have the factory guage.  I also have the Old Air Products electric fan and a Champion radiator.  Now it seems that my battery is not being charged.  I can drive the car and the fan comes on and then if I stop and turn it off, it will not start, the battery is too weak to start the car.  I had the alternator tested and it is putting out 130 amps with no problem. How can I tell if it is charging correctly in the car?  My factory guage only moves in the discharge direction when the turn signals or lights are on if at all.  I can rev the car and the needle barely swings to the charge side.  I think the alternator is charging because when I rev'd the engine, the belt started squealing at higher revs, so I had to tighten it very tight. I performed the wiring correctly and I have the resistor installed.  Any ideas?  Thanks!