I ran into a similar issue on my 66. It took completely tightening all the lug nuts down to remove any runout that measured at the rotor. I believe my issue was due to slightly distorted hubs from pressing new studs. Hope this helps.

UPDATE. Found the problem, simple mistake. Although I installed all lug nuts when checking for runout, they must be torqued at least to 50#. At least in my case. I'm guessing the hubs got slightly distorted, torquing them to the rotor face trues everything up. Thank everyone for the help. Bleeding them next, test drive soon!

Certain the races are seated properly, no. Confident I installed them correctly, yes. I did inspect them after install and they appeared to be seated. I have been leaning towards this theory as well. I will re-inspect this evening to confirm. Besides that I can't imagine what else could cause this. Unless the hubs themselves are warped. I really doubt that though. I did not have to clearance the hub to rotor, as they fit nice and flush together. Thanks for the input.

Hello all, I've been slowing installing MS brake kit on my 66 mustang. The latest thing I have ran into is that my hubs don't seem to be spinning true. Both hubs have been rebuilt with new bearings and races, and both seem to have the same problem. Drivers side I was able to get the wobble within .005" by preloading the bearings. I feel they are too tight to drive on though. Passenger side doesn't seem to matter how tight I set the bearings. Rotors themselves are true, but nearly touch caliper brackets when rotating. I'm sure it's in the bearings, I just can't seem to find the "sweet" spot. Any ideas? Your help is appreciated!

Well that would be ideal......any input Steve?

True74yamaha wrote:

You just have to install the pedal push Rod. You also would have to do this when using a 2000 v6 mustang master cylinder on a manual disc disc set up.

My original push rod?

I guess it depends on who's applying the powder coat. I'll just paint them and be done with it. Thanks for the info.

Lots of ways to do it. I used a T5 bell housing with a home made fulcrum adapter and factory z bar. Driveshaft lengths seems to vary, recommend installing transmission and measuring for your application. Factory crossmember can me modified to work if you can weld, if not buy one. Really depends on your budget and how you want to do the swap. If you plan on running big power and big radials, I'd recommend a different trans, or go with a gforce or Astro T5. I'm determined to keep my T5 in my street/strip 66, but it hasn't been cheap; and I'm pretty sure I could remove and rebuild the trans blind folded. Been out of the car, longer than its been in it. I'm sure you'll get plenty of help here on different ways to do the swap, best of luck.

hmartin025 wrote:

Chris, each member here draw from personal experience and how they look at their own car. On my own 65 I'm using small disc setup on front, drum on rear and single M/C and booster. Brakes work superb! One day will change M/C to duel bowl however, for the added safety! In the era when I grew up and much of my adult life single M/Cs were the norm, never lost my brakes? So, yes duel bowl has added safety, no question but to answer your question it works OK for me. Guys, not intending to step on toes.
Howard  

Howard,
I know others that have run the original MC without issues as well. Not with Steve's setup though, so I guess it would be hard to say if it will work properly or not unless someone has tried it. I figure for an extra ~$200 in parts for a MC and prop/dist. block, I might as well do it now while everything is apart. My main goal is to buy the correct parts the first time, and it seems there are a lot of ways to do this swap. Sounds like the 67 MC is the way to go for my application though. Appreciate your input.

Thanks for the reply. I understand the dangers of continuing to use my original master cylinder, but it seems it's only a recommendation to upgrade it, not a must in order to complete the swap. Is this correct? Secondly, do I use my original distribution block with a new proportioning valve, or does the dist. block need to be upgraded as well?

I think I will just wait to buy all the needed parts before I begin, do it right the first time as they say. I had planned on buying the 67 disc/drum master and SBCC's dist/prop valve combo. This should be all I need to "safely" install the brakes. Correct?
Thanks again, for the help.