MS I did check this as I had a questions about double and single eccentrics in another thread. Timing set is a Cloyes 9-1135 fits 62-84 221, 255, 260, 289 Std, 302 H/O, 351 Std, 351W H/O (to 03/21/84) with single eccentric, I did check eccentric clearance and that isn't a problem but the oil slinger was going to drag the back of timing cover. At this point the larger width of the gear set seems to the reason for the off set.
 

The paint is POR-15 Engine Enamel Ford corporate blue. 
 

After getting past the fuel pump eccentric issue with the 289 rebuild I finally had time this morning to get back to assembly. Timing cover\gasket installed, front main seal no issue damper hmmm not so much. The damper will not fully seat. Pulled it and inspected several time then finally pulled timing cover and found that it is contacting the crankshaft timing gear, installed without timing cover. Have to say using this dual roller timing set has been more of a challenge than expected. Attached are pictures, am I being to precise and picky?

First image is of damper installed and gap, Second same from timing pointer view, Third is old damper from another 289 I have in a stand in shop. Fourth image is with timing cover off to verify the damper was against the timing gear.



I guess accessory belt alignment is my biggest concern at this point. 

GPatrick you are dead on. After pulling it apart this morning and inspecting I saw the cam gear does not have the small stand off to allow the outer ring to spin when mounted. Nothing like a fresh prospective and a cup of coffee to see things straight.
 

Hey guys dumb question but I have searched the board and couldn't find my answer. Is the outer piece on the two piece fuel pump eccentric supposed to spin freely when installed? I have used the shorted pin provided with the eccentric which is installed on a Cloyes 9-1135 timing set. As I torque the thing down the outer ring is pinched in place so it no longer spins freely.

I called the seller of the eccentric kit and he said it shouldn't spin but I swear I remember on other motor rebuilds I did, over 30 years ago, the outer ring spun freely. Just looking for a simple yes it should spin or no it shouldn't before I button the front up.

Thanks

 

Thanks Bullet Bob, I have been a ghost in the machine for a while reading, searching and reading some more. Montrose, CO huh? Lets see only 1,310 miles from Baton Rouge. Seems like it would be good road trip/test to me. It would certainly allow me to test out the overdrive on the 4R70W conversion.

Ultrastang I know there will be some fabrication required on my part and I do have the flair tools, tubing cutters etc. I was actually going in the direction MustangSteve recommended. The install will be quite a bit easier with the entire drive train out. Should allow me to fit and tuck every line with the body lines. It's not going to be a show car but I do like things nice and clean.

I have a 66 Coupe that I'm in the process of resto/moding back to road trip condition. The coupe has the Granada disc brake conversion and rear drums. I have purchased the power brake conversion kit from Steve and was wondering if I can use the master cylinder from the 2000 V6 Mustang?

The reason I ask is about 6-7 or so years ago my daughter and I replaced the cast iron master cylinder, steel brake lines, rear wheel cylinders and pads/shoes so she could drive it her senior year of high school. While disassembling the car for the current resto/mod i found the master cylinder was heavily rusted ( in side and out), the brake fluid was coal oil black and the new steel brake line were also rusted internally.

Since I am going back all new again, this time with stainless steal lines, I was wondering if I could use the V6 Mustang aluminum master cylinder? I do have a disc/drum porportioning valve to go with the setup.

Follow up questions would be what type brake fluid would you recommend.