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FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » brake light switch & Mustang Steve pedal mod » 2/17/2017 10:58 AM

67StangMan
Replies: 22

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Did anyone notice the brake switch in Chaplin's pictures is mounted 180 degrees out?  Notice one of the connection tabs is touching the brake pedal.  The switch needs to mounted so the connection tabs are pointing away from the pedal. 

Tips and How-To's » Citric Acid Coolant Flush » 2/17/2017 10:40 AM

67StangMan
Replies: 1

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I use Oxalic Acid, (wood bleach) mixed in water.  Oxalic acid was the key ingredient in off the shelf radiator flush prior to the EPA requiring it's removal.  Oxalic acid is safe to use with proper precautions.  Don't breath, get it in your eyes or on your skin. It will clean the inside of your block to new finish and will not harm rubber or paper gaskets.  Be sure to flush well aster cleaning.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » T5 tremec or t5 z spec ? » 11/02/2016 9:54 AM

67StangMan
Replies: 10

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Call Bruce Couture at Modern Driveline, THE premier experts in 5/6 speed transmissions and classic car conversions.  www.moderndriveline.com .  Full disclosure: Bruce is a good friend. I have no financial association with Modern Driveline.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Hyper-sensitive brake problem » 10/31/2016 12:05 AM

67StangMan
Replies: 10

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The original booster failed.  It never did provide the pedal assist I wanted, so I decided to get a slightly larger sized unit - the GPS 8" dual diaphragm.

I spoke with GPS about my sensitive pedal issue.  They do not think the booster is the issue.  GPS has requested pressure readings at each caliper.  So that's my next step.  I'll report progress here, for education sake.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Hyper-sensitive brake problem » 10/28/2016 3:01 PM

67StangMan
Replies: 10

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[color=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.870588)]Thanks for the advice. I really do appreciate it. So, I realized the info I gave was partially incorrect. Sorry for that.[/color]

I'm using a Versailles brake distribution block which I believe has has a built in rear proportioning valve. It is not adjustable. I ran it previously without issue, so I don't think this is causing my sensitive pedal condition. It was designed by Ford for 4 wheel disc, on the Versailles of course. Also, I don't see where a prop valve would solve my sensitive pedal. Prop valves change the ratio of pressure between front and rear systems, but they don't reduce overall brake system pressure as seen out of the MC.

[color=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.870588)]I'm using a power brake pedal. It is the correct ratio. Good call out though.[/color]

[color=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.870588)]The booster is a GPS 8" dual diaphragm unit, not a 9". It is brand new. It replaced a factory 7.5" dual diaphragm unit. The GPS is .5" larger, but I would be surprised if that would make such a significant difference in pedal feel/force. That said, the sensitive pedal showed up along with the new booster. Perhaps the internal valve is bad? I'll call GPS to discuss.[/color]

[color=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.870588)]So, would switching from a 1 1/16" bore MC to a 1.0" bore MC bring more pedal travel and require more foot force? If so, that's what I'm looking for. Should I switch to a 1" bore MC?[/color]

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Hyper-sensitive brake problem » 10/24/2016 12:38 PM

67StangMan
Replies: 10

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* 67 Mustang
* Versailles disc rear, all factory parts.  E-brake IS adjusted properly. No "blue" rotors.  Wheel rotates without drag.
* '70 Mustang disc brakes up front.
* Dual diaphragm 9" booster.
*  1 1/16" MC (1998 Windstar)

Pedal is way too sensitive. Brakes work too good.  Pedal travels about 1.5" to no more than 2" and takes almost no foot pressure. Can lock up brakes way too easy.  Dangerous, actually.

A smaller bore MC would bring more pedal travel but higher pressure, correct?

What's the fix?

 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Driver Side Port Master Cylinder for Cobra Brakes (Steve/Ultrastang?) » 11/11/2015 12:21 PM

67StangMan
Replies: 26

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I thought Ford MC mounting holes were 3 3/16" c/l to c/l?  Chevy is 3 3/8", correct?  I'm asking because I'm having trouble mounting a Windstar MC to a booster.  The MC holes are about 1/16" too close to fit the booster and I'm trying to find out what's up.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Driver Side Port Master Cylinder for Cobra Brakes (Steve/Ultrastang?) » 11/04/2015 10:45 AM

67StangMan
Replies: 26

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This is a comparison of an Explorer MC (very similar to the Mustang V6 MC) next to a Windstar MC.




Anyone know what the measurement is of the Windstar MC mounting flange holes, C/L to C/L?  And what's the stock Mustang MC measurement?  Are they different?

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Neutral Switch after a Standard Transmission Conversion » 11/04/2015 10:40 AM

67StangMan
Replies: 11

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I spoke incorrectly.  The clutch safety switch I found was on a mid 90's truck. They all have one. Visit your local boneyard and peek under the dash near the clutch pedal.  Any make should do.  You will have to fabricate a bracket to hold it, but it's an easy set up.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Brake booster and hydraulic clutch masrer cylinder fitment » 10/27/2015 2:53 PM

67StangMan
Replies: 6

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commish10 wrote:

Using 8' dual diaphram booster...[edited]
 

Whate make and model 8" dual diaphragm booster are you using?

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Neutral Switch after a Standard Transmission Conversion » 10/15/2015 11:51 AM

67StangMan
Replies: 11

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Go to a boneyard and find an older pickup truck.  Grab the clucth switch (neutral switch) and it's bracket and install it on your Stang.  Stright forward and safe.  Don't just hot wire it. Too dangerous.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » what kind of insulation did anybody use inside their doors? » 10/15/2015 11:47 AM

67StangMan
Replies: 7

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Sound deadning a vehicle is so misunderstood.  There's a lot to it, to do it correctly.  A rattle can helps, but does not compare to a properly installed sound deading system.
To do sound deadinging correctly you need three layers of material; sporradically placed CLD tiles to dampen vibration (doing the whole floor with stick-on is a waste of material and $$ but the manufactureres won't tell you this) + closed cell foam of about 1/8" thickness + toping of MLV.  Educate yourself here: http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/home
 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Driver Side Port Master Cylinder for Cobra Brakes (Steve/Ultrastang?) » 10/15/2015 11:25 AM

67StangMan
Replies: 26

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67StangMan wrote:

The Midland 67-70 booster is a single diaphragm unit. They were not offered in dual diaphragm.  I know...I'm considering switching from my single diaphram 1967 Midland to a dual diaphragm unit. 

Well, I was mistaken!  I studied the '67-'69 Midland booster diagram I have and it does show dual diaphragms. Here's the '67-'69 Midland booster diagram. Note: The firewall mounting bracket is not shown.

 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Driver Side Port Master Cylinder for Cobra Brakes (Steve/Ultrastang?) » 10/13/2015 2:18 PM

67StangMan
Replies: 26

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MustangSteve wrote:

I am using the 92 Ranger MC on my 66 with four wheel Cobra discs.  Works great and has 1" bore with ports on driver side.  It is not a true four wheel disc master cylinder, though.  Not sure of the exact internal differences.

Anyone know if the '92 Ranger MC has residual valve(s)?  That's one key difference between drum and disc MC (besides bore and stroke of course).  Usually the residual valve can be unscrewed out of the MC connection port, thus making a drum port useable for disc, assuming bore and stroke are correct.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Brake booster and hydraulic clutch masrer cylinder fitment » 10/12/2015 4:13 PM

67StangMan
Replies: 6

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BobE wrote:

Check out "Modern Driveline", they make an offset linkage for the hydraulic clutch to avoid interference with the brake booster.

Yes, in fact I am installing MD's hydraulic clutch kit.  MD says the clutch MC will fit next to a stock Midland booster, which is 7" diameter.  I'd like to upgrade from my Midland (7") booster to a 8" dual diaphragm booster.  The challenge is, of course, how to get the clutch MC to fit.  I'm curious if anyone has done this, and how they did it.
 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Driver Side Port Master Cylinder for Cobra Brakes (Steve/Ultrastang?) » 10/12/2015 12:46 PM

67StangMan
Replies: 26

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MustangSteve wrote:

67StangMan wrote:

MustangSteve wrote:

That Windstar unit would be great to use if you were using the 5.0 Fox booster or 67-70 Midland or Bendix booster because those boosters have dual diaphragms and apply more force to the MC.

The Midland 67-70 booster is a single diaphragm unit. They were not offered in dual diaphragm.  I know...I'm considering switching from my single diaphram 1967 Midland to a dual diaphragm unit.

 

The thicker Midland and Bendix boosters are dual diaphragm according to all published specs.  Typically the shape of a dual diaphragm booster is the longer, smaller diameter like those two. The thinner boosters are single.  I have not disassembled one to check, but I have heard "dual diaphragm" on these for many years of dealing with Mustangs.  You said you know they are single.  Educate me, please.
 

I have a diagam of the Midland single diaphragm '67-'70 Mustang booster and will scan and post here shortly.
My Midland booster is single diaphragm and is exactly 7" in diameter.  It is 6" from firewall mounting surface to MC mounting surface (inclusing the spacer/breather thingy). What other diameter sizes were offered for the '67 - '70 Mustang Midland boosters? Perhaps a larger diameter, dual diaphragm booster was available as an option? I haven't seen one but would like to.
 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Driver Side Port Master Cylinder for Cobra Brakes (Steve/Ultrastang?) » 10/12/2015 12:36 PM

67StangMan
Replies: 26

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Ultrastang - What's the length of the'95-'01 Explorer (disc/disc) MC from booster mounting surface to front of MC?
 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Driver Side Port Master Cylinder for Cobra Brakes (Steve/Ultrastang?) » 10/02/2015 12:59 AM

67StangMan
Replies: 26

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MustangSteve wrote:

That Windstar unit would be great to use if you were using the 5.0 Fox booster or 67-70 Midland or Bendix booster because those boosters have dual diaphragms and apply more force to the MC.

The Midland 67-70 booster is a single diaphragm unit. They were not offered in dual diaphragm.  I know...I'm considering switching from my single diaphram 1967 Midland to a dual diaphragm unit.

The 1996 Winstar MC is in fact 1 1/16" bore (1.0625).  I've been running one for years and measured it myself when I inspected it prior to use.

I'm considering a 1 1/8" bore MC for my 4 wheel disc setup. Need one with ports opposite engine side and no residual valves.  And I prefer a reasonably priced Ford unit, but I might consider the C3 Vette MC if I have to. Any recommendations?

 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Brake booster and hydraulic clutch masrer cylinder fitment » 10/02/2015 12:25 AM

67StangMan
Replies: 6

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Has anyone installed both a 8" brake booster and a hydraulic clutch master cylinder in a '67 or '68 Mustang?
Heres the back story...

I am converting my '67 coupe from C6 automatic to a 5 speed.  I am installing a hydraulic clutch and the clutch master cylinder mounts in the factory provided punch-out hole which was used for the factory z-bar setup. I have power brakes and am using a single diaphragm Midland brake booster (factory '67 booster) which measures 7" in diameter. The clutch MC will just barely fit next to the 7" Midand booster and is a typical setup.

I am running 4 wheel disc and want to install a 8" dual diaphram booster which would greatly improve pedal force. The problem is I would have to move the clutch MC about 1/2" to 3/4" to allow for the 8" booster (as opposed to the 7" Midand which will fit).  I would have to enlarge the punch out hole to move the clutch MC but doing so will weaken the mounting location for the MC and will change the alignment of the MC to the clutch pedal.  If anyone has done this setup I would appreciate some advice.

MustangSteve - Did you make a post on this blog?  http://www.fordification.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=69431&start=15

And by chance is this your pic?  It appears to show a clutch MC beside a booster.  I'm curious what size this booster is. Thanks! Brian



 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 1967 mustang power brake booster » 10/01/2015 10:51 PM

67StangMan
Replies: 11

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Well,  I found out that the star shaped part is called a Reaction Valve.  It helps provide smooth operation of the booster.  It is required.  I ordered a Reaction Valve from HarmonClassicBrakes.com .

I also learned that the Midland booster spacer is required as well.  The Midland booster needs to release air through this spacer/breather to allow the diaphragm to move freely.

Yes Steve, the reason I asked about possible deleting the spacer/breather is to gain MC to shock tower space.  I am currently running a Midland '67 booster and a 1996 Windstar MC. The MC is about 1/8" from the tower and is showing slight scratch marks on the shock tower.  This means that the car is flexing slightly and allowng the MC to tough the tower.  I need to resolve this problem.  I'll start a new post with a question about this. Thanks! Brian

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 1967 mustang power brake booster » 9/27/2015 3:23 PM

67StangMan
Replies: 11

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I have a Midland booster and have two questions about it:
1) I would like to delete the spacer between the booster and the MC.  See attached pic of spacer. It appears this spacer allows breathing and pressure equalization for the large front hole of the booster.  If I delete the spacer the MC will seal against the rubber seal of the large front hole, thus not allowing breathing and pressure equalization.  How critical is the spacer and the breathing it permits?  Can I run the booster without the spacer and if so will there be any adverse affects?

2)  There is a curious star shaped spacer like thing inside the booster that sits between the booster pushrod and its "seat" inside the booster.  See pic.  It's made of 8 individual pie shaped metal pieces which are held in place by a circular rubber piece. I'm guessing this thing acts to slightly soften the initial contact of the booster diaphram as it makes contact on the booster pushrod.  Mine is broken as you can see in the pic.  Is this part necessary for operation of the booster? Can it be deleted with no issues? Can this part be purchased? 


Above: Booster to MC spacer.

Above: When the black plastic part is removed you can see the "slots" which allow breating action within the spacer.

Above: Star-spacer. This is ths sice which faces the MC and the plunger that goes into MC.

Above: Back side of star spacer.  Note the thicker rubber on this side.  Does this act as a cushion?


Above: My star spacer is broken.  Three of the pie shaped metal pieces have separated from the rubber part which should be holding them in place.
End post.

Board footera


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