MS wrote:

Has the hunt for the next one begun yet?

Hello Steve , well for now i think i stay calm and relaxed and see what happen . The market still got a lot of request for fastbacks and prices are always going up . . By now i have dad's mercedes 1963 to keep on running . But as survivor there's not a lot to do except cleaning . still untouched since 63 .  Bye for now ! 
 

MS wrote:

T/o bearings are different for foxbody cable clutch cars than they are for older 65-73 Mustangs. The way the attach to the release arm is different and they are different thickness. I am sure various manufacturers make them differently. One I recently bought with a new clutch had a plastic body that was cracked when I opened the box.

Did you replace the pilot shaft bushing (or bearing) when you installed the new clutch?

Worn z-bar bushings can cause clutch chatter as well. One good reason to use cable when it fits the situation.

Thanks ,  pilote bearing was new , really few month . But if necessary i got spare .   Will check again for flywheel / pressur plate centered with pin to avoid any doubt of vibration coming from there . 
About T/o bearing thickness /tall  , can be used also if are different one from another ?  . i bought from rockauto for 66 mustang . 

MS wrote:

Original clutches did not use dowel pins. Those came about on foxbody Mustangs. I would look for something else, like overextended pressure plate springs or oil on the surface.

Thanks ms for clear this , and yes , you were right , i had overextended pressure plate spring with incorrect zbar adjust . Now i put a new complete clutch kit renforced pressure plate . Now i'm trying it and wait for settlement . Seems have only little chatter , but have vibration that wasn't before .   please ms , tell me if throwout bearing are all the same ?? They comes differently each brand i buy .    centerforce was tall , the new one m-pact  is short .  My question is if they are made to follow the spring mark/ seats , where bearing really touches springs ?  or i can mix pressure plate and throwout bearing ? thanks ms ! 
 

TKOPerformance wrote:

Ford Racing Cobra clutch kit is what I use, and a lot of other guys on here too.  You need a cable clutch to use it though.  Most of us also run the Mustang Steve cable clutch conversion. 

for what i see , i need also a 10.5 or 11 inch flywheel because mine is 10 . too much expensive at this time .

 

ok , i understood that there 's some points that i should done , and ain't do . As MS stated i have adjusted too tight the lever and probably i 'm the problem maker .  Also engine mounts are a pain , too gummy , too soft . About all other spare : re-surfaced /machined from professional . New pilote bearing, new  throw -out 
no leaks from fly bolts , no leaks from rear pan . The clutch i'm talking have 4 years and was complete swap .   The only thing i can add is : the shake is more and more when heat goes high  .   Now i can adjust something to relieve the excess on pressure plate and see if changes . if nothing happen i will buy a new clutch complete  .  There are some brand really expensive , and shipping/tax are high . i need to stay with mid price stuff , any brand to suggest ?  Now i know that : brute force ,  valeo , sachs , ram  , are all the same product , looking for something different . advice welcome . 
thanks as always 

BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA wrote:

no LOCAL  parts place I can find has them ....as in they don't stock anything like  that in that size.
I am having  s197 MustangSteve rear disc brakes and front disc. I am need to block off a port that normally has a ISO bubble flare brake fitting.....Beginning t wonder if a Brass 10 mm bolt would work. Saw these on Amazon and I think this is the write ones.

https://www.amazon.com/Brake-Line-Plugs-M10-Pair/dp/B0748N5XJQ/ref=asc_df_B0748N5XJQ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312430092407&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3811712134942103180&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9010822&hvtargid=pla-569890090559&psc=1

 

 

 the " stop shop " can help : https://www.amazon.com/Metric-Brake-Fitting-Tube-Bubble/dp/B01DAQ0O9W
 

important note !  . car must sit on the ground before weld this or measures will be off .

M1Mustang69 wrote:

upload



I had bought these Via Kijiji, the seller assured me they would fit my 68, and they don't.
Why? How? I know my Diff is a 8"......it won't bolt up! They're brand new. 😭



Cheers,
Jeff

i can look at mine tomorrow and take pics . have 66 with 8 inch 
 

TKOPerformance wrote:

I'm assuming you have a hydraulic cam.  There is no lash or clearance with a hydraulic cam.  Hydraulic lifters need preload, not lash.  With the engine warm you check each lifter preload by backing off the adjusting nut to where the pushrod has some slack (I check this by moving it up and down as I find this more accurate, others will say spin the pushrod in your fingers).  Tighten the adjusting nut to where there is no longer any slack, and then go 1/2 turn tighter.  You adjust the intake valve as the exhaust valve is opening and vice versa.  Then move on to the next cylinder. 
 

i always thought that stock heads has solid lifters .  or i miss something ?
 

McStang wrote:

The 66 is getting a healthy 331 and T5Z. Wondering what to do about the 8" rear end. It's a street car with performance underpinnings that I plan on auto-crossing for fun now and then.

I don't intend to be doing any clutch dumps and there are beefier 8" center sections out there that can supposedly take some decent abuse but there's not much to do about the axles that I can see so I think upgrading to a 9" is something I can't get away with not doing if I don't want to get stuck somewhere someday. I don't want to do an 8.8 or anything like that.

Swapping to a 9" means I need the whole package, housing, axles and center section and at this point in my project I think it makes sense to spend a few extra dollars on a 'drop-in' setup. Has anyone dealt with Quick Performance or Speedway motors? For about the same price as Speedway, QP will replace the Trac-Lok with an Eaton Truetrac which seems like a better choice.

On the fence for gear ratio, leaning towards 3.50 (2.95 1st gear and 25.5" tires) vs. 3.70:1.

Well , my stock 289 isn't healty like your 331 but t5z and 8 inch are same . Tryed 3.80 and especially 1st gear was embarassing . Seems more like a truck with short fist gears , needed to move heavy load . I can't even complete a round about . i hated that short 1st 2nd  then 3rd 4th and 5th was quite good . But that set up wasn't my goal . Moved to 3.40 was best choice for my needs , especially for real 5th gear as overdrive on highway . that drop rpm at 2800/3000  at 75 mph .  imho 3.50 will be your best of both worlds . 
 

thank you MS , will follow tips and use jack and lifter , just off the ground and not what i was thinking with transmission lifter . Probably the fastest solution is remove and put new lca ... but thinking have only 5 years..
Thanks !!!

Hello , i was greasing joints as regular maintenance but today  i found both lower spindle joint boot broken . These last really nothing and i wonder that a week end driver can broke in 5 years . 
Asking some suggestion how to do next . Can i change only the boot , or need to change also joint ? How i manage the spring ? Need to compress it so i can remove lower joint ? 
Is normal to change this boots so frequently ? 5 years don't seems a lot  to me . 
Thanks ! 

Rufus68 wrote:

That's great to hear Alessandro.

Thinking about where you live, Modena-Italy area, if you snap any photos of your riding areas there in Italy I'd love for you to have a thread here that you could post them to.  I'm sure many of your drives pass by really scenic views.

Hi Rufus , i'm very happy to do this !  i will open a tread in the right spot and a brief about where i was . 
Bye !