By chance, could you share the condenser size?

I used a Spectra Premium (Canada) EFI tank from Rock Auto.
Spectra has non EFI tanks as well.

Only problem I had was the silicone rubber sending unit gasket leaked by on initial fill…overnight a small amount leaked.

Aviation Form a Gasket fixed it…6 years now.

Might want to check with Kentucky Mustang or NPD for tank kits that may save you some money too.

Prior to the 22 gallon EFI tank, I had converted to a 22 gallon tank from John’s Mustang.
Don’t know what brand tank it was, it did have the flat circle on the top of tank.
As I recall, I shortened my stock filler neck a tad to use a stock length filler hose in ‘70 tank kit.

Neither sending unit were dead nuts accurate.
I’m okay with it as my butt or copilot needs a break (400+ miles) before the 22 gallon tank does.

Perhaps some of these pictures may help…maybe not.

This is a factory 65 5 gauge panel with inductive ammeter (deluxe interior).
Ignore the white speaker wire going through the ammeter loop…it was a temporary repair of 25 years.

Will you have access to fittings if it clogs up?

I would suggest a removable screen to keep bugs out of hose and maintenance.

Daze wrote:

Nos681, did you thread the strut rods yourself or did you take them to a machine shop?

 
A local engine machine shop turned the strut rods down for me.

And he even threaded them on his own accord.

I helped him out last year by repairing his reversible rotation basket in his bead blast cabinet.

He had been manually rotating it for a while, even with engine blocks in it.😂

I also enlarged the hole in clevis from 4/8” to 5/8”.

RPM, aka Bearing Bob wrote:

So from whom did you get the clevis?

 
Moore Parts in Cali.

MS wrote:

Wish I had known you wanted some. I plan to remove my Buzek Bars and replace with stock type Moog parts on my 66. They have been on the car since around 2004.  (With no problems other than the clunking)

 
That is okay, this gave me an excuse to go into the freezing garage and have some fun.

I enjoy modifying stuff and know that I did it myself.

Rosehill Performance was my backup plan.

RCP…did not see this until today…or did I forget? 🤔

Coil overs are from CPP in California.
Kit comes with poly bushings and 350# springs for small blocks.

Initially installed with following:

Stock stye upper control arms with MustangSteve mods and offset control shaft
Stock stye lower control arms with Energy Suspension poly bushings
Stock strut rods with poly bushings (25+ years now)
1-1/8” Front sway bar (Mustangs Plus 90’s vintage)

Currently:
SOT upper control arms (for use with spring perches)
Stock style lower control arms with Energy Suspension poly bushings
NOS/RPM/RCP adjustable strut rods (primarily for bind free travel)
1-1/8” Front sway bar still

Surprised you did not just notch a hockey puck BobE.

I like the plywood idea too.

What did you find on choke?

I have an older Starett caliper that has electronic digital display.

I had left it in the ice cold garage and a couple of the segments in one number is consistently not working across the entire span.

It has been like this for a couple of years now.
I ended up getting a cheap caliper from Car Quest/Advanced Auto that has worked well.

I would like to fix this as I have had this almost as long as my 65.
It still works and is accurate for my use, just have to slow down to figure out the “one digit.”

Was wondering if it has a “carbon block?” similar in old calculators to connect to the display?

Choke plate may not move until you move throttle arm, which is normal.

Sounds like you may need to readjust choke due to ambient seasonal temperature…which is also normal.

Was it Rudi who had a nice article on how to adjust a Holley carb?

The search feature is pretty cool.

Gotta use little toe Chris…not the hammer toe. 😂