Rear axle doesn’t just move straight up and down, so be sure your travel verification process includes the axle in a drastic “leaning” condition with one side down and one side up. Thet is where I developed a rub condition on the inner wheel housing.  BFH fixed it.

I have that same standard rotation Wraptor system on the 331 in my 69 with a stock type flex fan.  At first I had a clutch fan on it. It fit fine but was giving a vibration that turned out to be a defective water pump. But I left the flex fan because it is lighter and works fine.
As I recall, CVF supplied a fan spacer designed for that system. I had to specify mechanical or electrical fan.

In 66, Ford cut the bottom of the opening larger in the dash to make it easier to get the gauges in. I did not cut it in Cara’s 65 when I converted it to 66 gauges, but I plan to do it on my 65 convertible.

Preference would be a mechanical 17” six blade flex fan for about $70 and a good Ford shroud for $90.

Your welder is your friend here

Matches original perfectly for painting gauge pointers

Ron, the OD of your spacers would also play into the durability of the mount. The larger, the better. Plus, being of sufficient strength to not deform.

Not my best design, but a bracket that adds a third mounting point to the borgeson two-bolt mount will avoid long term problems.  A pump mounted with only two bolts tends to make a “hinge point” about the line between the two bolts. Having a third mount eliminates any bending possibility of the two bolts.

Gotta disagree with you Rudi.  Dan builds a good system, but the Borgeson is just such a huge improvement and simplifies the car by eliminating six of eight hoses plus provides a better steering ratio, all for less money.
The Borgeson’s shortcoming is their mickey mouse pump mounting system.  I modified a 66 Ford bracket to provide proper support.

If you have to buy an entire rear end, front end rebuild, disc brakes, the whole deal, plus some rocker rust repair, the $12,000 starts to be alot more reasonable.  I just want mine to resemble original stuff, though. 
I enjoy these cars because they are old school, not because they possess the latest tech. I bought my 2017 GT350 because of that, then sold it because “what’s the fun in that?”

My suggestion in Billy’s case…
Remove valve cover.
Put #1 at TDC.
Back off the rocker bolt until loose.
Adjust to zero lash using fingers to feel the pushrod’s resistance to spinning.
Tighten one-half turn.

Did the bolt torque down properly?  If so, you are done. If not, try tightening 3/4 turn. Did it torque down?   If so, also done

If still loose, then you need to mark the valve tops and see the pattern. Determine if too short or too long by pattern on valve tip

Hold out for an F4TE roller 351 block so you get roller cam. Even if cost is alot more, it is worth it.

6sally6 wrote:

Bought the extended warranty ONE TIME. On a used Chrysler Sebring  rag top (everybody needs at least one convertible in their life) Must a been thru Chrysler. We had a rain leak (they fixed it) some sortuva squeak that ONLY Ms Sally could hear and they fixed it too.
Usually they are a rip......
6sally6

How much did that warranty initially cost you in order to get those two $50 problems fixed for free?