The car made the 3,600 mile Bash trip from TX to CA and back with no problem.  It started working consistently in a more linear fashion.  However, I have not driven the car much since I got home due to the rack & pinion issues that I am working on now.  The best thing I can say is I don't notice it being there.  I think that is the best description of a properly working electronic device.

Great job, Daze.
I appreciate the credit.
Hopefully you have a tapered ring compressor tool.  Those are the ONLY way to install pistons. Thumb pressure is all it takes and they never mess up. I have them in stock sizes and an adjustable one. If buying again, I would just get the adjustable one.

Typically around $400 for core short block. Pretty rare, though.
Having built several of every variation of Ford small blocks, I am sold on roller 5.0 based engines.  Much easier to work around once installed. Of course, I am now in the old fart category and having a running car is more important than having the fastest car.

And, no, you can’t have my aluminum 427.

Tip for reinstall:
Use one long heater hose that goes from upper connection, through firewall, then back through firewall to connect to lower hose connection.  That way you can install the clamps on the floorboard and not snaked under the dash. Once the clamps are secure, grab the hose loop and pull from engine compartment. The heatwr box will fall right in position.

Be sure to test the new core before installing it. I use a short length of bicycle tube with the Schrader valve in it. Clamp to each tube, put 15 psi in it and submerge.

Started late 1999.  It took off in 2000

2024 was Bash 21

Sixty miles away, but I appreciate your concern.
Our drought-ridden hill country is just one red hot ember away from the same fate. This is not a scenario we are familiar with around here. Some neighbors have not been able to renew home insurance because of it.
Fifty mph winds are not helping.

Have you verified the combi valve is centered? It will block flow to the rear if it shifted due to unequal pressure

rpm wrote:

Scott Drake and upgraded is an oxymoron.

FACT!!!

Alternator gauge is powered separately from oil, gas, temp. Most alt gauges don’t register anyway, though.

Pull the cluster and check for power into and out of CVU, plus ground wire continuity.

Sure looks like it but has a better routing for the return hose.

Does Betts still make sprimgs?

Found this to swap the ham can GM pump housing to a Ford design. It has a better return line entry tube that will not put the hose against the exhaust manifold like the one that came from Borgeson.


find duplicate lines