I have tried 2 different sets from NPD and they just don't seem to fit well at all.
The splines engage but that's as far as it goes and leaves a gap that I don't like.
There is a 1/2" diameter shaft right behind the spline that the crank just won't get past.
The front are screw in and the rears do not have a hole for screw in type.
Does anyone know the correct window cranks for my '69 Coupe. Window regulators came with the car, so I assume they are original.
Thanks

Rufus68 wrote:

How long do you have to wait before you can restart the engine after it stops?

Would not start right back up so I waited 1.5 hours (dinner break) started right up.

GPatrick wrote:

What is your full ignition setup?  Some ignition module failures will show similar symptoms.  You could try to keep it running using a squeeze bottle and dribbling fuel into the carb.  If you have a timing light, trigger it while the engine is running and see if the ignition quits (light stops flashing) before the engine stops.  If it runs out of gas it would keep firing until it finally stops.

New Mallory ignition module, cap ordered. Be here on Tuesday.

BobE wrote:

Did you check the ‘stone’ filter(s) at the carb inlet?  They might be partially clogged?
Has the car sat w/o running for some extended time?

Filters replaced. Running all spring and summer. Trouble started about 6-7 weeks ago.

I'll start here by telling you that I have pulled all of my hair out during the last 6 weeks trying to trouble shoot this problem to no avail. Until about 6 weeks ago she was running fine. Only 13K miles on the engine. I only put 93 octane in the tank. Starts up fine, smooth running. After 15-17 minutes it starts to starve for gas. You can see the fuel in the glass filter start to disappear and then about 3 minutes later its shuts down every time I replaced/chased a thought/suggestion. I have videos of the event that i am unable to upload so if you want to see it, I can email or text it to you. Below is what I have done so far and still no luck. I have included some photos of the engine bay. SME's, please what the heck is going on??
Carb - Holley 650CFM - Rebuilt professionally
Edelbrock Mechanical Fuel pump #1725 - Replaced original with 2 new ones.
Plugs replaced.
Ignition Coil replaced.
Bypassed the fuel tank using a gas can
Replaced all of the fuel lines from the pump to the carb.
Replaced the old aluminum fuel filter with a glass fuel filter.
 

After taking a pause on this topic, I’m going to take your advice MS. I’m gonna grab me some SS tubing and get to bending. I think I can adjust the location of the outlet port towards the radiator to minimize that hard bend.

Here are a few more pictures of Chelby=Ann. The bumper re-chrome cost me $650. I was only 2.5 hours away, so I dropped it off and picked it up. Quoted 8-10 weeks. Finished up after 9 weeks. As for the bash. That's gonnah be a tough one to make as my daughter ($$$) is getting married November 11th. The Mini-Bash in October may be more realistic for me. Ill get to one of these MS Bashes. Thanks for all the kind words. Looking forward to meeting up with all of you soon. Any of you traveling thru North Carolina to the BASH and plan on stopping let me know, I could come meet up with you at your stop. I'm between Statesville and Winston Salem and 2 hours from Raleigh and an hour North of Charlotte. The Mustang Museum is in Concord, North Carolina. .;' 

I replaced my front 69 seats with front 98 Mustang Seats. Bought replacement foam and covers and redid them myself. Real easy. The bolstered seats were exactly what I was looking for and quite comfortable. I did have to modify the bottom of the 98 seats with my 69 mounting brackets but that was easy to do. The quality of the TDI kit was perfect. Had the rear seat reupholstered to match the new pattern of the front seats.

6sally6 wrote:

Chelby-Ann wrote:

Can someone post the details of the Mini-Bash. My wife and I plan on attending. Thanks

COOL!..........sent you a regular e-mail.......
6sal6
 

Thank You.
Chelby-Ann is booked at the Hampton Inn @ Murrells Inlet. Looking forward to finally meeting up with some of the MS Crew.

Interesting. I bought new calipers and hoses. I will report back on the outcome. Thanks

Its been awhile since I have visited the site and played. Life got in the way. Moved to Michigan in 2018 and moved back to North Carolina this past June. Anyway... 
This will be wordy so I can describe my issue.
I converted my 1969 Mustang Coupe to power disk brakes front and back.
I NEVER was happy with the set up from day one because it always pulled to the right. I bled the lines. All brand new components. I just lived with the slight pull.
I'm done living with it and have consulted with a few people here in NC.
They seem to think the lines from the Master Cylinder are not hooked up to the distribution block right or I have the wrong distribution block. I thought I had purchased all the right items.
We put her up on a lift and tested the grip on the brakes by turning the tires one at a time while pressing down on the brakes and the caliper was grabbing the rotor. When you look at the back of the rotor on the drivers side you can still see the grind marks when it was faced. Can't see them on the passenger.
I have included pictures that may help determine the prescription back to a healthy braking system. I hope someone can help. Thanks
Thanks in advance

I am in the middle of modifying my center console and had a thought. I have a manual parking brake set up on the center console and thought about modifying it to an Electric/Electronic P-Brake. I know many newer cars/trucks have this. I thinks it would be a pretty kewl mod. Anyone try this? This would allow me to add 2 cup holders. Any thoughts?

Huskinhano wrote:

6sally6 wrote:

Rufus68 wrote:

The FORD tech did the FORD specs.  These are not the specs recommended to us by those experienced with the 1" Arning/Shelby drop.  Sorry to tell you that.  Here's what is recommended:

These specifications are in order of importance:
1) NO more than .25 degrees of difference between driver's and passenger's side.
2) +2.0 to +3.5 degrees caster.
3)  -.5 to 0 degrees camber. No positive camber, please. There is no problem having a slight variation from driver's side to passenger's side to account for the crown in the road.
4)  1/16" to 1/8" toe in 

Trust me!!!!.........these specs will make it drive perfect. The Ford specs will make it drive.......wacky.
Very important..........Problem is....young(know-it-all-techs) want to do it THEIR way. INSIST on getting these numbers!
Many of the new(er) alignment machines won't let the tech put in custom numbers. They are computer controlled. That's way many of us keep saying get an old skool mechanic to put in THESE numbers.
Trust me...its worth it!
6sally6
 

6sally6 is absolutely right. This is why it's important to get involved and understand what you are doing on modifications. You're chasing your tail and spending money. I'm not trying to give you a hard time I'm speaking as someone who's been down this road. The alignment you have is less then ideal. You need CASTER. Go find a crusty old shop with a equally old chain smoking crusty old guy to align you car. He'll know exactly what to do!
 

I will find a shop that will align to these specs and keep an eye on the wear pattern. Thank You All for the feedback.