Picture of front brake system. I also use stainles brake lines at all corners.

First, thanks for your questions. The system is manual, no booster. I am using the standard Ford junction block and I do have a proprtioning valve on the Trans tunnel. As to brake pedal feel and depth of push to get adequate sopping, the pedal does NOT feel mushy but you have to push the pedal  a good ways to get serious braking. It is next to impossible to get the wheels to lock up in a panic stop. If a picture woud help, I would be happy to post one of the junction block relative to the MC. Frank

My thanks to all who have replied. Did some work to improve bulb contacts as well as on the turn signal cam canceller. I now have turn signals at all four corners but no brake lights. I'll be tackiling that tonight and i appreciate all the advice - "Some of the nicest people I've met are car nuts".
Frank

I have a complete front and rear suspension for a 65-66 Mustang fastback. All pieces have only 1765 miles on them. The front  springs are Eibach variable rate and LCA's have roller spring perches installed on them, rear springs are 3 1/2 leaf mid eye with poly bushings. Front and rear shocks are Koni, front spindles are original to the car with 10 inch SSBC discs, calipers and pads. Braided lines included. Rear drums only without shoes and associated springs but there are backing plates. Please see pictures for additional detail. I would prefer not tp part out the pieces but will do so if no interest in the whole setup. please contact Frank at fdcjl@optonline.net with any interest.

Have just moved to a full front coil-over from Street or Track and before ordering, I spent a lot of time on the phone with Shaun.He tries to build an suspension that goes together, front and rear. For the most part, his car was a street car and if you watch some of the video of him out in Michigan, the thing really handles well. Originally, my car had regular upper and lower control arms, Koni shocks, progressive rate springs and a 1" front sway bar. The roads in CT, at least where I live, bite but I found the setup on smoother roads handled well but the Konis and progressive rate springs made any bump hard to deal with in the front end. Also, didn't help that the leaf springs in the rear were a bit soft relative to the front. Having finally installed the coil-overs and new rear suspension, new larger front brakes and discs in the rear, I just need the snow to melt so I can get to the alignment shop. Ride height on a coil-over will also determine your ride quality. JMO. 

The Master Power 11" Rear Drum Kit is NOT sold and if anyone is still interested. let me know. Better if you contact me at my email address: fdcjl@optonline.net. I will respond quickly.

PLEASE NOTE THE MASTER POWER BRAKE KIT HAS BEEN SOLD.
My poor decision making is your advantage. I bought this it for my 1966 fastback and decided to go with discs instead. The drums, all pre-assembled, are still in the box. The kit is DR-1504K and the kit lists for $520.00 new. It's someone's for $385.00 plus shipping. I've listed before with MS and have delivered exactly what I've posted. See description below.

Get disc brake performance at a fraction of the cost with our 11” rear drum upgrade kit.  This kit is for Ford 8” & 9” small bearing rear ends, (3-3/8” x 2"). It uses 11” finned drums and oversize wheel cylinders to greatly enhance performance over the original 9” drums. You won’t even have to change the master cylinder or proportioning valve. All the components come pre-assembled on new backing plates so all you have to do is remove the old drum components and install our Master Power Brakes kit. The original parking brake cable will hook right up.