RPM, aka Bearing Bob wrote:

Neither. Get this one,
https://www.npdlink.com/product/fuel-tank/106641?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3DGas%252Btank%252B%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1970&year=1970
which is terne plated. It is a form of tinplate, which is coated with an alloy of lead and tin. Mine has a drain plug, might have to look for another model number further down in those listed.

Here it is at NPD with drain plug
little cheaper than the one with out seems to be backwards
https://www.npdlink.com/product/fuel-tank/106640/209712

Debating on a changing to the 22 gallon tank or just replacing mine with a 16 gallon stainless would like to do away with any further rust in tank issues....noticed some are Galvanized some are steel some stainless.

everything else will go up now.
 

It has done jumped 20 cents in last few days.

Or anyone that has did a recent tank replacement please share where you got your tank and other items and quality there are so many different brands and sellers the prices are all over the place.

Was thinking about the 22 gallon tank its a little more pricey if you have to buy the modified filler neck CJ pony sells them around 100 bucks. I was talking with Steve and he made a good point if I wasnt doing a lot of trips the 16 gallon was fine cause you would more than likely keep fresher gas in it.
On another note Gas jumped about 20 cents here in Ga the last few days.

I am gonna get it by somewhere that  knows the roller engines...I actually know a guy that had a shop I think he still does that was a certified SVT mechanic when all the  Cobras and  SVT vehicles were new in the 90's. He should know a lot about all the roller rockers and stuff.

They get close to sway bar dont they?

with the pedestal roller rockers what length push rod checker do I need thinking mine may be too short. They are standard from a explorer and now it has differnt cam and 1.6 pedstal roller rockers.

Bullet Bob wrote:

Another issue with a stuck choke and very rich running is that the rich mixture washes the cylinder walls and promotes excessive cylinder/ring wear.  Probably not an issue with a car that you rarely drive but that's one of the reasons why new cars will go 200K +.  The EFI keeps the fuel mixture dead perfect in all conditions.  Back in the day, with manual chokes, people were always forgetting to open the choke after warm-up.

Also, it's about a five minute job to adjust that choke, or just fix it to be always open.Just sayin'.
 

thats is what I am about to do I  have not been off work to where I could till today...was also gonna verify if I had 12 volts to the Choke like Steve and later Ron suggested..

 

RPM, aka Bearing Bob wrote:

BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA wrote:

John Ha wrote:

If it's stuck shut it'll be running really rich.  You'd smell that in the exhaust and see the black smoke. 

I'd guess you have a vacuum leak somewhere. 

It is running rich...I been working a lot lately and aint had a chance to look at it it much.
I wish I had another carb I could stick on it.
 

 
It would be easier and take less time to remove the air cleaner and look at the choke to see if it's your issue.

The choke is staying shut I had the breather off ....I was showing Steve a picture of it and he noticed the vaccum advance hose was hooked to the manifold port instead of the carb port I am off tomorrow so I will work on that.

I am thinking mine is stuck shut ...when I  get time  I  am gonna check it....might be why it is running crappy like its bogged down.
 

So with a Eaton Truetrac new pinion gears is it differnt than traditional  set up as far as breaking in....I keep googling Breaking in Eaton Truetrak and it says no break in and no friction additives just GL5 rated 80w-90 gear oil should be used. 

Looking on Eaton site it says there is no break in for a Eaton Truetrac it is all gears no friction clutches....anyone familiar?