My 55 F100 sets LOW and the pinion ends up higher that the trans tail like many of our Mustangs as MS mentioned based on ride height. My 55 has a DC joint and is silky smooth.

In a side note, this was built by the previous owner and the DC joint is at the pinion end of the DS and work great as stated but I have typically seen the DC joint at the trans end of the shaft.

I have used several Painless kits but on Custom builds and they were more universal and all of them used a GM steering column plug.

All of the early Mustangs I have done we used the Mustang reproduction harness that matches.

In the big scheme of things there aren’t that many wires that go into the column and if you know what each is on the harness side you have it wooped.

Just take your time and solder some good connections that are removable. Wiring can be overwhelming as a complete task but rather easy one wire at a time and very satisfying once completed

I’ll have to see if I can dig up some photos, my 66 Yellow coupe had all parchment soft parts and the metal parts were yellow to match the outside.

Follow up Guys,

I went ahead and went for it and proceeded to fix the bubbles (Rust) and remove the standard badging and trim. The spot on the A-pillar was rust. I cleaned it all up and welded it and all the badging and trim holes up. I ended up spraying some color on the roof area, quarters and fenders. I completely re cleared the roof, quarters, doors, and fenders.

It has been a decade since I did any wet sanding and buffing, believe me I was regretting my decision about halfway through the process, 1000, 1500, 2000, 3000, 5000 grit and buffing compound on everything in the garage as I slung it everywhere.

Its far from perfect, but not bad.




I really wanted the GT look, I have the exhaust, and fog lights, still have to pick up a gas cap.

My worst was the first motor swap for my 68 was just a stock rebuild on a 289. I ran it in a test stand and all was good. Put it in the car and fired it, sounded great, ran wonderfully.

I look underneath and oil is pouring out near the oil sending sensor.

The block actually cracked/split at the sending unit boss.

The later 302 blocks that boss area is squared off but on the 289 it was rounded. I believe ford changed it to strengthen.


Your project look fantastic, keep going, big payoff in the end.

This is what is great about all of the different experience on here. I spent all of the time swapping to a dual belt pulley on the alternator and WP to deal with the squeal and never considered a wider V-belt to bite better.

If I had only presented the issue back when,

Just my opinion, But I really don't care if the topic is working on your lawnmower, the latest upgrade for your garage/mancave, or even your Chevy truck, and I enjoy the nostalgic drag race stuff.

With the cost of everything these days, those of us still raising kids and trying to get them out the door just don't have the money to be in the middle of complete builds, hell a single tire can cost well over $200. I feel like I am doing good just to keep the old car on the road. 

I enjoy the conversation among older car guys, I realize the site was set up to discuss classic Mustang issues and builds, and I believe in our hearts that where it still is but face it there aren't too many 20 somethings starting classic Mustang builds. 

Everyone has an opinion, but I enjoy checking in and seeing how those up North ae dealing with the snow or see the lates upgrade to the shop down south and dreaming about when I'll have a few extra $$ and more importantly some time to wrench on one of the cars. Sometime its jus the inspiration that's needed to keep a project going.

Rick (Kardad)

I agree with everything you guys are saying, I am hopeful that it's not worse than it appears just because of the car's history. Somewhat of a long stoyr but if you want to read.

The car was purchased new by a couple I go to church with (John & Rita). They graduated from college, got married, and bought this car all the same month. It was a plain 289/3-speed manual everything. Being broke at that point in life, John said he went to by a 6 cyl car but they didn't have one and the dealer sold him the V8 for the same money. This was their everyday driver for years. as life goes years later John is able to retire from IBM/Lexmark. This is where I got involved, John and Rita new I constantly had an old Ford at church and came to me and asked me to restore their Mustang. The car hadn't been on the road for several years and was rough. I told them both that I could find them another one already done for far less money than it would cost to fix theirs. They had ZERO interest in a different car, they both wanted their car fixed, period. So I agreed to the project mainly because I didnt want them to get taken advatage of.

I completely broke the car down and I had to replace the front frame rail / fender apron assemblies and radiator support complete before I could put it on the rotisserrie. I stripped the car 100% using about every method known. SOme areas were sand blasted, some with chemical stripper, some with a DA and 80 grit. It got one quarter panel, and both floor side (should have just installed a complete floor). Tried to dig through my stash and use as much Ford stuff as possible to stay away from the repop stuff.

Finished the car, and it turned out well and John and Rita were very happy. They drove the tires off of it for about 3 years and unfortunately John passed away. Rita almost immediately asked me to swap the 3-speed to an automatic for her, so I did that and made sure it looked like it came that way. Rita went on to drive the car for a couple years and th

This is the situation, on my 66 coupe the paint is about 10 years old and for the most part great condition. The problem is right at the top of the drivers side A-pilar there is a bubble that has progressively gotten worse, probably the size of a quarter. If I had to guess I would say it is where some had their hand on it to push it in the paint booth and it didn't get cleaned well enough. It is right at the corner of the windshield.

My initial plan was to remove the windshield trim and sand the spot down and repair, and then scuff the roof and quarters. I would repaint the spot and blend into the roof re-clear the roof and quarters (no where to break the clear without hitting the whole quarters.

Now this is where it gets interesting, if I am going this far I have always wanted to clone mine as a GT, I could remove the quarter trim (weld and fill holes). Now I would need to remove the fender emblems as well so now I am re shooting them. 

You see where this is going, looking for opinions if it is worth the effort to reshoot half the color and almost all the clear for the GT look vs standard coupe? Not that I'm looking to sell but would it impact the valuer either way?

 

I am a huge fan of the inline motors, but must admit that I like the 200/250 in a Falcon build but still prefer a small V8 in the Mustang,

I have built several F100’s of different models and my favorite have been the ones with a 300 straight 6 and 5-speed T5

There’s two ways to be noticed, be nicer than everyone’s build or be different. There is only so many Coyote or LS swaps a person can look at.

Presently the 66 just has the stock 289, and I got way too good of a deal on a 3.35 T5 not to use it. I have the 2.95 T5 in the 68 and it makes first much more useable. My 68 has 3.73 and Trac loc (Explorer 8.8)

I will eventually upgrade the motors in the 66, but for now it just runs too good to mess with. 3.50 probably makes the most sense but I bet I go 3.80.

Still on the fence concerning the diff, even with more motor I just plan to cruise it,

I drove a 1966 Econoline in High School and I always told people that you drive 3’ past where you want to go and then turn.

I have always wanted a Econoline Truck

Yeah, we have a 70 Dodge 340 6-Pak and I have to remind myself to run some fuel through the outer two carbs from time to time.

Other than an accelerator pump which has nothing to do with the 3-carbs, the 6-Pak has been extremely reliable.