All mig, and don’t get me started, I have played with the tig and need to more because that would save grinding time at the very least.

Absolutely Sal, and that was the initial plan, things got complicated with where and how the inside of the bed was formed.
I even thought about cutting the inside and outside of the bed at different locations.
The inside of my bed is different than all that I have seen, on the drivers side there is a bump out for the dual fuel tank option, but in mine it’s much wider than others I’ve seen. Long and short of it, this location just made the most since. Added benefit is there was a dent in the passenger side that this cut location eliminated.

Thanks for the comments and support.
Rick

My opinion only, the 347 is pushed too far for the 302 block, I know of some that have fought cooling issues with the 347.

I think the 331 is the sweet spot for the 302 (5.0), that's what I have in the 68 with AFR heads, the heads make the difference.

With all that said, a freshened up 302 (306) can make great power for a cruiser, run cool and save some dollars for other things. I would rather have a 302 with good heads vs a 331 0r 347 with mediocre heads.

My main goals for my rear suspension are:
Ride quality
Space for lots of rubber
Adjustable to dial in pinion if required with lowered height

I want a really really really enjoyable cruiser with a nice rake and aggressive look.

Any performance benefits would just be a bonus.

There is those with a lot more knowledge than me that will chime in, but I believe the base circle of the cam is different and the lifter bores are different.

I went through all of this years ago when I built my 393 out of a non-roller block and paid big bucks for the conversion lifters and cam.

Besides the obvious, what would be the downside of a manual choke, that’s all I had growing up and they always worked correctly right were you set it and when.
One of the issues I have had with most, I guess modern carbs is a choke that was consistent.

Thanks for the advice, From ALL,

I have had decent luck with the Edelbrocks but as stated, it just looks wrong and that is why I had used the Summit carb. I have had experience with 3 of the Summit carbs, one was great, the other 2 weren't bad but had consistent idle issues as well as the choke linkage was problematic at times.

Let's say I go Holley, are there any suggestions in the 600-650 size? I want great drivability over raw performance.

The reason I am trying to make a decision so early in this project is I have to know what carb I'm going to use to order the correct Throttle Position Sensor Kit from US-Shifts to work with the 4R70W controller.

My plan is to get the trans in and operating to work through any bugs before building and installing the motor. So I will be using the carb on a stock 302 for a few months. I want to work through the driveline a piece at a time, so I know where to start with any issues vs my 68 that I replaced absolutely everything at one time, and I truly believe that's why I'm still chasing the dam vibration from one end to the other.
 

Ok, this is basically a multipile part opinion/educational question. I am in the planning stages of my truck project:
1976 F100
Crown vic front
Explorer 8,8  w/ 3.73 LS (Because I have it, may change to a 3,55 or even 3.08 later)
351 (393) low RPM cruising torque monster
4R70W Electronic Auto Overdrive (1998 Mustang 3.8 model)

I want to build a nice ideling cruising truck that has tons of torque with great throttle response and will never see over 5000 RPM and realistically 4000 RPM (probaly live in the off idle -2500 RPM).

I have never built anything with an auto, always a manual.

I plan to run a 600 CFM carburetor, I know this is on the small size by some peoples thinking, but I like the throttle response that this size should provide over a 750. SO THAT IT OPINION QUESTION NUMBER ONE

From what I have read, a vacuum secondary carb will work better with an auto trans than a mechanical secondary. THAT IS OPINION QUESTION NUMBER TWO

I have had decent luck with both the Summit Brand Carb (Holley/Autolite knock-off), as well as the Eldebrock Carbs. I like both of these due designs because they won't leak as a Holley may do. but neither of them have been perfect either. THAT IS THE FINAL OPINION QUESTION

Tons of Carburetor experience on here, and NO I dont want to go EFI. I need to determine what carb I plan to use in order to order the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) kit for the transmission controller. This Autoomatic Trans thing is new ground for me.


 

What I see is how flat the truck cam is and I am betting that right off idle the truck cam difference is even more. Think about your gearing and where you spend the major your time. Cruising at 70-80mph the cam will be right at the torque peak which will be perfect.
My thoughts for my next motor is build it for how I drive 90% of the time vs 10% of the time.

My 331 with AFR 165 heads has an E-cam and pulls strong to 6500, and the torque curve feels dead flat, I have a 3.73 gear and 2.95 first gear,
I like the combination in the 58 coupe,
I too want to build a 393 or 408 torque monster at really low rpm for the f100 build so I’ll be interested in what you come up with.
But as an opinion to your question I don’t think the e-cam right for what you want.

I prefer more rake in the stance as well, the white one may be just a tad more than a like, but I defiantly don't like the rear setting lower.

These are two of my favorites,




I have been swamped at work, but I am gathering the parts, flex plate, starter, torque converter, balancer, once I get it apart, I'll update everyone on the vibration.

Yea, there is a block plate between the block and flex plate, I agree on the firing order and mixed-up wire, that was one of the first things I checked. I know it's hard to describe and can be easily confused, but it doesn't feel like a miss fire or dead cylinder. It feels like a vibration in the rotating assembly.

The flex plate and starter need replaced, so I will pull it apart to that point and inspect everything and make sure all of the parts are correct dia, balance, and depth. Based on the cost of a stock replacement torque converter, I may change that as well. 

I have a 97 model 351 roller motor, standard bore in great condition that is my bucket list motor I want to build, but I would like to get this motor figured out and run it for a couple years while doing all the frame, chassis, and body work. 

I have done a manual 5-speed swap in everything I've built but would like to do a 4r70w (I want a nice comfortable cruiser). But with that I would like to do the drive line as well as the suspension and brakes in steps. I know it will take more time and probably cost more, but it's frustrating when you change everything from one end to the other and then you have an odd noise, vibration, issue, and you're scratching your head at where to start at which new upgrade bit you in the butt.

Plus, I like a challenge, so if this motor cost me a few hundred bucks and it's running smooth I will feel like I won.

I wonder if they have a pull string to open and shut them,