Thanks guys.  When I get to the test and tune I will show snippets here first before it ever makes it to my channel.

RPM, aka Bearing Bob wrote:

 
Yeees...butt...I saw what you were doing, but I'm too lazy to do a two minute search. But I'll post a couple times here which takes much more time.

 😂😁😂  Sounds reasonable to me 
 

Nos681 wrote:

Daze, you deserve an honorable mention as well.

I did read your initial write up years ago…did not see the updated clevis.

I used the same seller for the clevis, just checked your website.

No I don't need honerable mention 😁😁 Just curious if it was the same part and now we know it is.
 

Rudi wrote:

Nice job on the clevises, who made them, what grade of steel?
Much more impressive than the cast/forged items!

I updated my website with all that info
 

Had so many projects in the works that this part of my Frankenstein EFI took a back seat, but I finally circled back and finsihed up these throttle boddies so that I can get them installed on the 351W on my run stand and see if this crazy concept will even work.

 


  

MS wrote:

I guess if you are going to buy one, get the biggest possible size. And if two liters is enough to submerge the part, that is enough?
And could throw some rocks in there to take up liquid volume if the part to be cleaned is small

Or some random wrenches, hammers, sockets.  To get a free cleanup on those

That was exactly my thought. Glen and I were talking about this exact thing and he is going to use bad transmission gears. I would be worried about rocks reacting with the cleaning liquid.

RPM, aka Bearing Bob wrote:

6sally6 wrote:

"Awesome" (the name of a cleaner available at Dollar Tree ! BTW)
Funny story......
When I was on submarines, back in my Navy days, I was a cook. The double griddle we used was cast iron and even when it was scrubbed with greenie pads it never really looked super clean.
One day when I was cleaning the galley I took a package of concentrated  Kool-Aid (aka as bug juice! One packet made 10 gallons of bug juice.)
I mixed about a pint of water with a packet of the lime bug juice (NOBODY liked the lime so we had PLENTY). I put the super concentrate on the cool griddle and gently wiped it with a greenie.
The results were.........it looked like a sheet of shiny stainless steel ! Stupid clean.
We started using the "magic concentrate" every time we cleaned the griddle.
We ordered more of the stuff and the crew used it throughout the boat on all the stainless steel surfaces! (even the inside of the stainless steel crapper bowls)                                                                                             .1. Fill the bowl almost to the top
                                                                                                                                                   2. pour in the bug juice mix
                                                                                                                                                   3. swish and flush !
                                                                                                                                                   4. shined like chrome!!
True story.....concentrated dehydrated vinegar worked almost as well.
6sally6

 
Why did you wait all these years to share this tip?

This is at least the second time I’ve heard him tell that story.

MS wrote:

So, where do I get one of those ultrasonic units?

Affiliate links to items in this video:

Amazon link to Ultrasonic Cleaner https://amzn.to/3HoeQLJ
Walmart link to Ultrasonic Cleaner https://walmrt.us/490SJH0
 

Like I said before I only think it is critical in extreme situations.  Boost or NOS above 6000 RPM.  In those situations one degree either direction can cause detonation in an intake or to much advance in the cylinder.  Both results can be catastrophic but with a normal every day engine its not going to be an issue.  A few years back I was fighting an issue on a 351w on my run stand. Engine wasn't running poorly but I had two header tubes not getting as hot.  I was playing with EFI in self tune and it kept going rich.  Problem ended up being the 5 and 6 spark plug wires had gotten switched so one was way advanced and the other was way retarded.  Point being even though far from perfect the engine was still running okay and if a stock(ish) motor can be off by that much without major issues the one or two degrees of phasing is not going to effect it at all.

MS wrote:

Explain what this is for, why matters?

It is my understanding that timing phasing only matter on a lock out distributor in a situation where massive timing swings need to happen to account for boost and NOS, situations where you want it retarded and even being off by a couple degrees advanced can cause catastrophic consequences.  There was a guy on VMF that wanted an adjuster to phase a Duraspark distributor that he had locked out and so yesterday I went out to the garage and invented one.  I took and old vacuum canister, chucked it up into the lathe to separate the halves, I then removed the diaphragm, added a heavy spring (I believe from drum brakes) cut the vacuum inlet off, machined a spacer to go between the adjuster that was already inside and the adjuster arm cup, drilled and tapped 4 holes and put it all together including installing a 1/4" fine thread bolt into the stock adjuster.



There is about 1/4" total adjustment which comes out to one reluctor tooth when installed in the distributor. That works out to about 8º





If I was going to install this in a car I would replace the bolt with a long setscrew with jam nut (just used what I had kicking around in the shop) and add 4 more screws to hold the halves together. Not only would they look cool but the body of the canister flexes a bit with just 4 screws.
 

6sally6 wrote:

EZ answer would be..........Axe Greg B if he has had any crossfire situations pop up.....
6s6
 

Lot of people have commented on my video and forum posts saying they have been running this for years, no issue.  Also International used it for over 20 years so I think it is fairly sound.  One engine builder who had a lot of good incites said crossfire is very RPM dependent.  Not as much of an issue until 6000 and above.  He also said most of the crossfire he has seen has been outside the cap but it does happen inside in extreme situations and without venting.
 

TKOPerformance wrote:

Does the smaller cap have a vent?  I seem to recall that crossfire often was caused by ionized air inside the cap, and if you could vent it the issue resolved.  

Seams like a good theory, but I don't buy it.   The larger cap IS vented and if venting was all that was required Ford' bean counters would save $.02 per distributor on less plastic.  Yes ionized gas inside could crossfire so venting is good but I think their decision to go bigger has more to do with cheap spark plug wires and crossfire outside the cap.  If small caps were prone to misfire inside than all the MSD and other aftermarket caps would be bigger as ignitions have only gotten hotter.  Why can the aftermarket run smaller caps, because of aftermarket wires.
 

Already made some improvements. Added a tension spring to help secure it when in use and shortened the lower strut so it doesn’t hit the connecting rod.