Cab4word67 wrote:

I have a Leeds electric brake pump on my 65 for that very reason and always have thru the dash good brakes now.
I have 107 LSA on my 289 

Where did you install the pump and does it make a lot of noise?
 

RTM wrote:

I can't find a short 3 bolt header collector in stainless steel. I have found a couple that are 12" in length but nothing in the standard short collectors.

I just used the standard metal one that came with my Sanderson Headers.

Residual valve.

https://youtu.be/DIVDjqniUX8?si=bsSIoWFQh2RRixMe

RTM wrote:

KeithP wrote:

RTM wrote:

 
It might be a month before I get to that part but I need to order one so I can set the column where it needs to be.

With the new steering wheel/seats/Malwood hydraulic clutch pedal I have I moved the column up. That ribbon cable coming out of the side of the column is now on the front side of that aluminum column clamp. Don't buy the steering shaft to steering box joint until you determine where you want the column positioned.
 

 
I have a D shaft and knuckles that haven't been fitted yet. But I do have a question. I was told not to slip the D shaft inside of the flaming River column shaft. I think that's the best way to mount it and install a roll pin once I establish the final position. In my mind I have a point where it can collapse. Can't recall why my buddy said not to mount it that way and I'm pretty sure he had read that somewhere online.

I don't think the D shaft can be moved inside the column(mine is not collapsible). Maybe because mine has their EPAS attached? I just moved the whole column forward. When I moved the whole column forward I had to source a longer joint.
 

I have one of those with EPAS. After you install your steering wheel could you post a picture of the full up tilt position. Mine does not tilt up as much as I would like. It tilts down a lot more than up.

MS wrote:

What exactly is a cab forward?

Passenger compartment over the front wheels.
 

Mach1Driver wrote:

I didn't want to intrude on KeithP's thread about 4 post lifts, so started my own thread.
I have a 2 post MaxJax. I like it because it has a limited lift and won't bounce the car off the relatively low ceiling in my basement garage. Also, it can be unbolted and moved out out the way in a few minutes to make way for the rotisserie.
Yesterday, I had the car up on the lift for several hours (obviously not under pressure the whole time), put it down, and was preparing to lift it again when my customary check for leakage now revealed puddles under both cylinders.
It's 8 years old and is only used occasionally, but yesterday, both cylinders failed at the same time in the same way. They are dripping out the bottom of both cylinders around the shaft, indicating seal failure. A double failure at the same time usually denotes a common cause- any ideas what that may be? 
Bend Pak owns the company now, and does not offer a seal kit. I don't have a problem removing the cylinders and having them repaired as they suggested. New cylinders are also available from Bend Pak for $441 each. Obviously I don't want a repeat performance and I'm most concerned about safety. Just a note; the garage never reaches  freezing, so this isn't an O-ring failure like the ill fated Challenger.
 

This is the place I will probably get my parts from. Here is their list of 2 post seal kits.

https://www.carliftparts.com/product-category/lift-and-hoist-parts/2-post-lift-parts/2-post-auto-lift-hydraulic-cylinder-seal-kit-rebuild/

I can take it apart and hopefully compare the seals online and find some, or maybe even locally. I just didn't want to have the lift unusable for an extended period of time. But, it might end up being that way.

I have a generic import 4 post lift. The cylinder is leaking out of the weep hole at the end of the cylinder. I need to rebuild the cylinder but cannot find a part number on the cylinder itself. I called a couple places online but they referenced their repair kits to a Lift Model Number. My Model Number Lift was not on their list. Anybody have any luck finding parts to repair their 4 post lift cylinder? 

Yep, pretty simple when you use the original flasher.

Those look good.

I just ordered the Corbeau A4, black cloth, drivers side lumbar, 1" shaved base on driver/pass and brackets. I will post pictures when I get them. 

RTM wrote:

KeithP wrote:

Rudi wrote:

After I completely redid my engine bay I put all new SS lines, front and rear calipers, disks, master cylinder and line lock .
I’m using DOT 5 all synthetic to prevent the regular brake fluid rot.
Ten years or more on, with one purge and refill I can report no issues.

I am using DOT 5 too. Don't have a lot of time on my braking system yet, but so far so good. Brake pedal is firm and don't feel any difference so far from regular brake fluid. I used my pressurized master cylinder brake bleeding system to bleed the brakes by myself and check for leaks, no brake pedal pumping necessary.
 

 
I may look into a power bleeder. Not sure my wife will want to pump the brake pedal with no seat in the mustang. Lol

When I remade all my brake lines and connections I was able to keep the system pressurized for long periods of time to check for leaks. I had some stubborn leaks, so it helped me out a lot.
 

Rudi wrote:

After I completely redid my engine bay I put all new SS lines, front and rear calipers, disks, master cylinder and line lock .
I’m using DOT 5 all synthetic to prevent the regular brake fluid rot.
Ten years or more on, with one purge and refill I can report no issues.

I am using DOT 5 too. Don't have a lot of time on my braking system yet, but so far so good. Brake pedal is firm and don't feel any difference so far from regular brake fluid. I used my pressurized master cylinder brake bleeding system to bleed the brakes by myself and check for leaks, no brake pedal pumping necessary.