The headers I have are uncoated long tube headman’s. The other issue I see is that I can barely get a finger between the brake booster and one of the tubes as well. I’m concerned about cooking it, I do have it wrapped but that will only help so much. I’m thinking I need to switch to a shorty header to solve both problems.

6sally6 wrote:

MS has a really neat 'trick' about installing trim and not screwing-up your paint. It involves a milk carton
6s6
I tink all the clips should go the same direction !

 
Thank you,I just went and read it.

While installing the trim clips, I see a couple screw holes out of line with the others. Do these get clips but turned the opposite direction from the rest? Also, are the clip screws tightened down or leave them a little loose?

Anyone know where I can find 65 coupe door drip rail seals and channel? It is the seal and channel where the door windows meet the drip rail area. My channels were junk and are gone. I can’t seem to find them for a 65. Making good progress getting it back together!

I reached out to Circle D and they recommend a non lock up 2800 stall converter. Do you guys know what is meant by a 9” converter or 12” converter? I’m pretty close to purchasing everything and want to be sure parts are right.

Ron68 wrote:

RTM wrote:

That's a beautiful color!!!

 
I agree!

Very nice!

I have a 3.70 gear and will be on the highway occasionally at about 70-75 so ideally would like to keep below 2500 rpm.

Well, it’s apart and I’m still going down the rabbit hole so why not switch to an overdrive trans? I see Summit and Jegs have AOD trans for about $1800. What would be a good torque converter stall speed for my set up? I’m not looking to pull the front tires off the ground necessarily but do want some performance. Thank you in advance for your advice!

Brents65 wrote:

Nos681 wrote:

Brent,

Could you add pictures of tubs and details?
Nice color too.

 



Pretty bad picture but you get the idea.  Drill out all of the spot welds holding the rear seat back to the wheel housing. Drill out all of the spot welds holding the inner wheel housing in. If you want to do this cheap cut a piece of sheet metal 2” wide and about 48” long...(I believe 48”..measure your wheel housing). You will need to remove the trunk spring rods and drill out the spot welds for the trunk lid hinges where the are welded to the housing and remove the trunk lid. Using a zip wheel or a body saw cut the inner wheel housing just to the inside of the seam. Remove it from the car. Try not to cause too much damage because you will be reusing it. Fitting the pieces back in takes a lot of hammer an grinderwork. On the rear frame rail roll the outer edge down. I know most would frown on this but you will be welding the housing back to it so it should be plenty strong. Tack weld the 48” piece or sheet metal in slowly!  Fit the liner wheel housing back in place. It is going to be a pain so take your time and line it up as best you can. Hammer and dolly as you tack weld moving around so you don’t put too much heat in any one spot. Keep doing this until you are satisfied they are secure. Next, the front inner bottom of the wheel housing needs to be pie cut and widened. It pinches in on the front inner edge of the rear tire. You will want to remove the rear diff bump stop and relocate that inboard some.  Another step is to relocate your leaf springs. I bought a crites kit. It moves the springs inboard 2.5” if I remember right. After this go back through and weld your seat back into place. You will need to trim some metal off the trunk lid hinge bracket and weld that back on. Use plenty of 3m seam sealer to keep the smoke out. A few

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