Nos681 wrote:

Brent,

Could you add pictures of tubs and details?
Nice color too.

 



Pretty bad picture but you get the idea.  Drill out all of the spot welds holding the rear seat back to the wheel housing. Drill out all of the spot welds holding the inner wheel housing in. If you want to do this cheap cut a piece of sheet metal 2” wide and about 48” long...(I believe 48”..measure your wheel housing). You will need to remove the trunk spring rods and drill out the spot welds for the trunk lid hinges where the are welded to the housing and remove the trunk lid. Using a zip wheel or a body saw cut the inner wheel housing just to the inside of the seam. Remove it from the car. Try not to cause too much damage because you will be reusing it. Fitting the pieces back in takes a lot of hammer an grinderwork. On the rear frame rail roll the outer edge down. I know most would frown on this but you will be welding the housing back to it so it should be plenty strong. Tack weld the 48” piece or sheet metal in slowly!  Fit the liner wheel housing back in place. It is going to be a pain so take your time and line it up as best you can. Hammer and dolly as you tack weld moving around so you don’t put too much heat in any one spot. Keep doing this until you are satisfied they are secure. Next, the front inner bottom of the wheel housing needs to be pie cut and widened. It pinches in on the front inner edge of the rear tire. You will want to remove the rear diff bump stop and relocate that inboard some.  Another step is to relocate your leaf springs. I bought a crites kit. It moves the springs inboard 2.5” if I remember right. After this go back through and weld your seat back into place. You will need to trim some metal off the trunk lid hinge bracket and weld that back on. Use plenty of 3m seam sealer to keep the smoke out. A few companies sell t

josh-kebob wrote:

Brents65 wrote:

josh-kebob wrote:

yeah so what's the friggin secret to upload pics now?  tinypics is now a thing of the past....and it seems hit or miss by at least a few folks so far who are successfully able to upload pics.  I've tried from my laptop and no bueno......very frustrating.........where's Barnett when you need him??

Not sure if you tried it yet but it just worked for me...top left of the grey bar there are three horizontal lines...next to FYI FORD, click on that then select desktop format. Go back in to tech discussion and look for the upload button at the bottom of the comments. Good Luck!

not seeing/finding the grey bar and 3 horizontal lines..........there is however a nice local bar in my neighborhood which would prove much more funner than trying to post a picture on this forum........thanks for trying to help with this.....

 
This grey bar...just click on the three bars and select desktop format.  Then you will see or should see a smiley face icon with upload images on the bottom right of your message that you are typing.

Wholly crap it worked and I did not have a stroke!  If using an iPad switch the MS site to desktop format and the upload icon magically appears!

I use an iPad and iPhone and do not have an icon to upload images. Like right now if I wanted to post a picture of me scratching my head wondering how to post a picture I would be screwed!🤪

got the engine in for the last time...(I hope).

Okay thanks, it is a track loc.

Thanks I appreciate the feedback. That’s what figured on the seal, it wasn’t goin* to let much by anyway.

That happened to me during the Gulf war back in 91’,  I was an MP on patrol Messing around with my Hummer when the fan let go.  actually pierced the hood ( not as bad as yours) but that will sure get your attention!

Bullet Bob wrote:

Brents65 wrote:

Question... would I need the 2psi residual pressure valves with a similar set up? 4 wheel disc, 2000 mustang MC.

Not to hijack but to add....

What I did yesterday was:  Fine tune the booster pushrod to the 2000 V6 MC, add two pound RP valves to both brake circuits, and re-bleed the system.

NO CHANGE to my problem which is excessive pedal travel before a solid pedal.  In other words, the RP valves did not help or improve or change anything.  I was just grasping at straws.  System is GT 12.5 inch brakes on front and Explorer brakes on rear.

After another consultation with MS (he had not tested his system at the time), he suggested that my problem might be the Explorer calipers having a larger piston area than the Mustang brakes that the MC was designed for.  The Explorer uses a 1 1/16 inch MC and the Mustang V6 is 1 inch. 

I am going to buy a M12x1.0 bubble plug and block the rear and front circuits one at a time.  If blocking the rears makes a significant improvement that should tell the tale.

Short version....I don't think the RP valves do any good on most normal systems with four wheel discs.  They are normally used for old car systems with the MC lower (under the floor) than the calipers.

BB
 

 Thank You!

Brents65 wrote:

Chaplin wrote:

MS wrote:

Finally getting around to changing my master cylinder and proportioning valve. My car has been suffering from rear brake drag.  Not sure exactly why. I had a 92 Ranger disc/drum master cylinder with 1” bore. It does NOT have a residual pressure valve for the rear brakes. My car is disc/disc. I verified no rear valve by thoroughly disassembling the mc. My prop valve was from a disc/disc 1977 Lincoln Versailles that has been on the car since 1993.  I don’t think there is a failure mode on those where it would hold pressure on the rear brakes?  But, I figured some new, known-to-work items I have installed on customers’ cars can’t hurt.

I am going with simple 2000 Mustang 1” bore disc/disc master cylinder, adjustable proportioning valve and a 2psi residual pressure valve on both ends.  Of course, the 66 has a MustangSteve power brake conversion on it.

Something to consider...
I originally used the Ranger mc because it has the ports on the fender side. The 2000 mc has them on the engine side.  Fender side is preferred location.
After disassembling the 92 mc, I determined the castings for the mc body are idential on both of them, except for port location side of exit. It looks like I could use the internal parts from the 2000 mc in the 1992 mc body to achieve having ports on the fender side. The internals are configured a little different on the disc/disc mc, so that would give me a disc/disc mc with driver side ports and 1” bore. This is unavailable in any other configuration other than corvette style.

If you do put that configuration together, please let us know how it works out. I’ve got the 2000 mc that came with the MS kit and it would be nice to have the outlet on the fender side.
 

 

Is the 2psi residual valve needed? I too have disc/ disc with a 2000 mustang MC.
 

Brents65 wrote:

I installed the new dash pad and gauges, also put the headliner in.  Still have to tighten and glue it.  It’s progress!

also buttoned up most of the rear.
 

red351 wrote:

I had narrowed the 9" for our 67. It worked out just as cheap for customs as having the axles reworked. The customs were a stronger alloy, so I just stayed with 28 spline. Cost was around $400 with new bearings and bearing plate. Had someone name Michell differential (If my memory working right today). Told him what I did, and he knew what to do.

 
Sounds like what I am after, are they online?