6sally6 wrote:

Hey Jimi!!!  Welcome to da forum!!
Soooooo it looks like me and you pal!!
No seriously....How has the lower temps(160*) worked for you? Any sludge build up issues?
What kind of  set-up do you have?!! 5.0......351......FE?
6saly

Sal, I've been a member here for some time, but don't normally post much.

I'm running a 331 inch smallblock, aluminum heads, 10.5-1 compression, Hilborn stack EFI injection with Holley ECU,  ahead of a TKO600 and a 9" with 3.89 gears, all in a 1965 fastback with a .565/571 lift roller cam.
I'm not worried about sludge as my car only sees about 2-3K miles per year and that's with two oil changes per year.  Maintenance is your friend. 

I've always found cooling issues to be one of two things, insufficient air flow, (indicated by temperature creep at low speeds, but acceptable temps at highway speed), or  insufficient cooling capacity, indicated by temps staying at higher levels.  Now keep in mind that higher levels and too cool are subjective and everyone has their own opinion.  I run a 160 stat and am happy with it. Others are happy with 180 or 195 stats, go for it.

Most drag racers that I know like to enter the burn box at around 170 degrees.  The dyno operators I know like to start the pull at a minimum temp of 170 or 180.  The higher temps encountered from 70's to current is to lower the amount of emissions, not to increase performance. A hotter chamber will burn cleaner.

Based upon my experience, run, don't walk, but run away from stainless lines unless you have the expensive flaring tools that stainless requires.  While I have managed to get a couple of conventionally flared stainless joints to seal, I've had way more fail. 

Use the conventional mild steel fuel lines and an affordable flaring tool and you'll be happy. 

ok, got the new turn signal switch installed and it looks like everything is working correctly now.  I want to get some mile on the car before I feel 100% comfortable.

PS:  The turn signal switch that was bad was a Scott Drake from a major vendor.  I almost crapped my britches when the new "NOS" one showed up.  It was also a Scott Drake, but the package dated from 2005.  The wiring was completely different, much better color coding and better attachments to the switch.  But, (and there's always a but), the darn wires going to the 6 plug connector were different lengths.  Why would someone think that was a good idea?

Anyway, it appears to be working correctly.  Thanks for the sounding board guys.

Sorry about the slow responses, but apparently I didn't get the memo.  The rest of this week has been declared honey-do time by swmbo.

I'll update when I get back in the garage.

The 1965 Mustang stop light circuit has a 12+ constant from the light switch to the brake switch, which grounds the circuit and sends current from the light switch to the turn signal switch.  From there, somehow the power goes to a connector under the dash, by the fuse panel. 

Ok, that's the background.  My problem is that I have a brake light that keeps dropping out and not working, and I can't figure out where the random short is happening.  In the past year or so, I've installed a new wiring harness going to the back of the car, I've replaced the brake light switch and have verified that power is getting there.  I've also verified that power is coming out of the brake switch and going to the turn signal harness.  I just recently, (past couple of weekends) replaced the turn signal switch and had the brake lights working correctly in the garage.  But, I'm only getting power to one of the wires that run to the rear of the car.  Turn signals and running lights all work correctly, so the wiring is intact and the bulbs are good, I can provide 12+ and grounds to the taillight housing and everything functions correctly.

So, please someone with more electrical smarts than me, please explain what is going on in the turn signal switch that may be causing my problem.  It's to the point that it's getting personal now, as I've been fighting this for quite some time.

Any help/advice would be appreciated.

Kar wrote:

Where at, I'm off Claysmill rd, Stonewall subdivision

 We are practically neighbors.  I'm off Boston Rd, in Stonecreek.  Between Man O'War and Cromwell.

I have two early Edelbrock intakes for a small block ford for sale.  One is a F4B, dual plane, and the other is the Torker 289 single plane, (NOT the TORKER II).  Both have some age and miles on them, but have been cleaned up and painted.  F4B has some helicoil repairs and has the notched divided plenum, (not the 4 hole)  and the Torker 289 has had an attempted polish done to it.  A lot of surface smoothing, but nothing harmful, just looks amatureish.  But with the cast aluminum paint, you have to look close to see it.

Both were also in recent use on my early mustang so they are functional.  Took off the Torker, ran the F4B for a while.  Both are 4 barrel intakes and are nice additions to any street car.

The F4B is priced at 250.00 and the Torker 289 can be had for 200, and I'll pay the shipping  But feel free to make offers.  All I can do is say no.