Bullet Bob wrote:

And...they STILL haven't answered your original question...LOL.   Butt (TS&T), I will make a feeble beginning effort.

For a simple street driven cruiser I prefer the HiPo cast iron manifolds.  They clear everything, are reasonably priced, and if treated to a bead blast and two coats of POR-15 Exhaust paint will look great for years.
Or, a lot of guys on here go for various headers and the best fitting seem to be the JBA Shorties.  I guess they are pricey but they are apparently the easiest to deal with in the early cars.
You mentioned Tri-Ys and other than hanging down in the dirt, if you are running EFI they will cause you to place the HEGOs a long way from the exhaust ports...and that isn't the best for closed loop operation from what I have read.

Okay, I got it going.  Now people who know what they are talking about can chime in.

This makes sense, placement of the HEGO would definitely be higher up if I used a shorty, leaning towards patriots cloisters, supposed to tuck tight Up against the motor. Also need to place the wide band 02 sensor in there somewhere.

Good luck and If you go with the MegaSquirt let us know how it works out. 

BB
 

Raymond_B wrote:

That's awesome. Yeah the stim allows you to power up the Megasquirt on the bench and simulate some of the sensor inputs like TPS, O2, RPM, temp etc. Comes in handy to ensure that the box is working good. I found that it's good for learning the Tuner Studio software as well. Not sure what you mean about the turbo? Do you mean turbo/automatic trans features in the Megasquirt? I'd take the MSD box, you could sell or trade it down the road

Interesting, I was not exactly sure what the stimulators function was, good to know, I am just kinda scratching the surface with the Microsquirt stuff. Well  the  gentleman was running a boosted setup with 80mm turbo on his fox body, with E85 or some such thing, but in researching adding a turbo to my car being a manual vs. an automatic trans car, I have not found a way to route the exhaust with a manual trans car and they only seem to route it with an automatic trans car.

TKO, I had read about the quarterhorse and a little about the moates, but just have easy access to this megasquirt for a pretty good deal. With it being a DIY unit it should just come “pre-tuned” to just run my 306, with any adjustment being easily accessible. Like I mentioned I found the A3M1 computer ( thats for a 1992 5.0 5 speed trans) but was a little Leary after reading a few threads about folks having a glitch in the old computers and locking up their motors? Also you mention there is a built In rev limiter in the Fox body system, wouldn’t that be in the software of the ECU? Wouldn’t the redundancy of the MSD ignition just be a good fail safe?

Been many days since I frequented ol Mustang Steve fyi, my project is moving along at a snails pace, literally stalled up for the last year with little to no progress... such is life I guess?

Either way, narrowing it down to a couple headers for my 306 w/AFR 165 headers, converting to a T-5z (I bought from he amazing Glenn At Rosehill Performance) with his supplied bell housing which I am not sure exactly that is anymore? Will be a power steering car probably convert further to the Borg Warner unit. Which headers y’all using? Considering the Patriot Clippster shorty, or possibly tri-y, I seem to get conflicting fitment information wherever I look?


Well I guess I can’t say I have made no progress, deciding to go EFI on my car by way of the foxbody system. Acquired all the parts needed from efi harness, fuel rails, couple sets of injectors, found a nice top end setup in the edlebrock performer RPM2.       ( which I just got back from powder coating to match the paint scheme, call me crazy) found a A3M1 computer ( but am considering using a mega squirt 2 instead as it might be hard to replace the stock computer down the road, and adjustability of the MS is nice) , bbk 70mm throttle body spacer. Yadda yadda, I keep telling myself it’s a labor of love...

Said this is a typhoon intake w/ 90mm plenum reduced down to a 70mm throttle body, “ plug and play” w/ 41lb injectors

6sally6 wrote:

devovino wrote:

6sally6 wrote:

Well...........I know for a fact you guyz are just entering your "nice weather period" for this year. I also know it starts back with the rain/drizzle sorta early too.
I'd throw a carb on it and drive the  dookey out of it while you can enjoy it!
Jus say'in
6sal6

.... Researching the foxbody efi mgmt system.......  find all the needed parts that are available.... takes a lot of time...... hoping the right tune will be attainable w/ alum. heads and cam....  need gas tank.... return line.... in tank fuel pump... yadda yadda

EXACTLY!!!!
We ain't promised another day!!!
I vote carb and intake and drive...drive...drive...
You got lotsa drizzly days to look for parts...not many pretty/sunny days to enjoy.
6sal6
 

Haha,  like I said,  very little drizzle here in the high deserts,  we kinda transition right to snow.... which could be more fatal. I mean,  one could drive their classic in the rain right? Test out my new windshield.

TKOPerformance wrote:

Yeah, depending on what it comes with that is a good price.  I'd want all the accessory brackets, engine wiring harness, fuel lines, injectors, ECU, etc.  What kills you is having to piece all that stuff together.  The brackets, etc. are all being reproduced, and are easy to find, BUT they aren't cheap.  The hardware kit for the brackets alone is like $70.  That's where buying a complete engine has advantages.

Injector auction closed, no big deal, couldn't believe they only brought $75.  I just lost $125.  eBay just isn't what it used to be.  10-15 years ago everything sold for stupid money.  Today it seems the stuff gets looks but no one buys.  I've listed stuff on Craigslist too, but people there just want to try and give you half what you want for something by bringing cash and thinking they're slick.  Hey genius, EVERYONE pays cash.  What?  Do you think I'm going to take a check from you?  Anyway, such is the hobby.  That words seems to fall painfully short though, its really an obsession, or a sickness isn't it? 

Well the 200$ 5.0 sold, back to the drawing board. I did find a 95 mustang HO 5.0 in a junk yard w/ T-5 that had a small fire under hood which burned some harness and dizzy for 800$, but then A) have to take it all apart to get all the parts B) little fire (should?) Concerns me. C) At what point am I better off just going aftermarket for EFI, or just go with carb for simplicity reasons?  Either way I would get a 5.0/T-5 for a future project, had my eye on a 1960 f-100 that would be perfect but one project at a time.

Hey 6sally6 that is in fact what I installed,  Yukon torque lock 3.55  rear end.

Bullet,  wow that would be fantastic!  I will keep an eye out for a PM and hold off before I start to gather components,  I really appreciate it. Whats the going rate to have a man of your expertise on sight to help with install, :-)

With the premise of "you get what you pay for" prior to finding this shop I had my car at a "restoration shop" to paint my car, it was when he stated "I am just going to leave the windshield in place when I paint it" I knew it was time to get it out of there. ... this is what it looked like underneath:

Also said he was going too leave the remnants of the convertible top in place and paint:

I cut the cowl ends to inspect/paint inside there,  come to find out this is how the other shop tried tho repair it, tape and some sort of epoxy:
[img]http://i68.tinypic.com/ in.jpg[/img]
Lastly, the other shop tried to replace  inner fender apron w/o welding and again using some kind of glue, which the measurements were way off, so needed replaced, along with the front and opposing inner fender apron, not they cut around the vin to retain:

Ignot Silver Effect is a current ford color used on the mustang.




I really lije the way it came out,  Now tho finish pouring the car back together.

TKOPerformance wrote:

Adjustable motor mounts will buy you like another inch of hood clearance.  You can also forgo the carb spacer if needed.  PVC or booster can be plumbed directly into the manifold or carb. 

Lowercase, yeah its a 65.

TKO, I have been thinking about motor mounts and undecided as to which to go with, wanted to do the adjustable but figured I might not gain much w/o interference w/ the steering?

I am going to go with the RPM Non air gap w/650 Edlebrock carb, wondering if I need a low profile air cleaner?

MS wrote:

On a rear end, it makes sense to have the gasket in place.  Without one, the differential sits one gasket thickness farther to the rear, and that can make the rear wheels toed in very slightly.

On the oil pan, the whole point of using RTV is to eliminate the crush thickness.  Think about it.  Any material that needs to be crushed to function will deteriorate over time and lose that crush.  A gasket that has to be squished hard to function spends the rest of its life trying to squish out the sides or otherwise fail.  That is why pan bolts loosen up on their own.  With RTV only, you can torque the bolts tight just like holding two metal parts together, so they will never loosen up.  Why waste money on a gasket when the RTV will do a better job?

I doubt you will find a pan gasket on any late model car.

Yeah, good explanation as it makes perfect sense. I just have a gasket here for the pan already because it came with the master gasket kit that the engine builder must have ordered at some point from felpro. I also agree and it makes sense I guess I was trying to apply the same thinking as the rear for the pan.
 

TKOPerformance wrote:

The Performer doesn't have enough port for a 347, especially if you run any kind of RPM.  Run a Performer RPM Air Gap, that's the best manifold you can put on it.

For the carb. a 600 would work, but a 650 would be better, especially if you're going to run it above 5,500RPM.  Edlebrock carbs are good and have good street manners.  They are almost infinitely tunable, but you can get lost in the tuning options and often achieve the same thing six different ways.  The reason racers run Holleys isn't because they're so good; its because they're simple. 

Well its not actually a 347 if you remember but a 306, AFR heads 165, e303 comp cam. Was also reading good things about the weiand stealth.....

Rudi wrote:

jerseyjoe wrote:

Without lookin it up.... what does RTV stand for...jj

Room Temperature Vulcanising 

Learn something new everyday. .... I just know that's WHAT I used when I sealed up my  8in after re-gearing!