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Paint & Body » Emblem Install » 4/14/2016 11:46 PM |
Great, will do. Thanks for the tips!
Paint & Body » Emblem Install » 4/12/2016 8:25 PM |
Mine's a San Jose car, I've heard those are the worst. I never actually checked them for straightness though.
Paint & Body » Emblem Install » 4/12/2016 6:04 PM |
So I've been thinking about welding up the emblem holes in the fenders on my '67 coupe, grinding down the posts on the lettering/emblems and using adhesive to attach them to the car as opposed to the original post/hole method. What do you guys think of this idea? Any one else done this? If so, what adhesive did you use?
Thanks!
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Underrider Traction Bar Installation » 12/14/2014 7:17 PM |
MustangSteve,
can you describe your rear suspension setup (springs, shocks, bushings)? Based on the forum posts I've read around the web, it seems that some people were able to solve their wheel hop problems with springs while others needed to use traction bars, as the springs didn't solve the issue. I guess I could just wait until the car is running, and if I have still have issues with the heavier springs, then install the traction bars.
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Underrider Traction Bar Installation » 12/14/2014 12:11 PM |
How do you feel about the handling all around? I spent countless hours researching this on the web and the majority of caltrac reviews that I found said that they worked great for driving in a straight line and for drag racing but for general streetability not so much. I already have a solid set of underriders that I'd prefer to stick with (although I guess this isn't NECESSARILY set in stone), but would like to get started installing them as soon as possible.
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Underrider Traction Bar Installation » 12/13/2014 4:17 PM |
Hello guys,
I've read a few posts where MustangSteve has said he's not a fan of underrider traction bars, but I've spent a number of hours reading through forums and weighed pros/cons and I think I'm going to go ahead and install the ones I have. My questions are these: The car is still a shell in the metalwork stage, and I'd like to complete all welding before I move onto the next phase. If I don't know what wheels/tires/springs I'm going to be using, how do I load the rear of the car to ride height so that the bars are aligned properly prior to welding? And how precise does that approximation need to be? Does the car need to be level front-to-back? I have the original springs and some old wheels/tires, but not sure how great of shape they're in. Haven't thought this through yet, but could rest the axle directly on cinder blocks for consistent height then rachet strap the body down to a specific height. But then how much should I measure and to where, quarter panel lip to center of the axle? Also, what happens if I change springs later or use lowering blocks or something, how would this affect the existing traction bar installation? Any tips would be appreciated.
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Lower rear bench seat hook install » 12/06/2014 6:21 PM |
Hi all, unhappy with the floor patch panels i welded in ages ago, i tore out the floor on my 67 couple and replaced it with a complete floor pan. When cutting out the old floor, i cut the trans tunnel and rear seat platform area out in one piece so i'd have a reference for where the lower seat hooks need to be located. However, before welding on the new hooks, i luckily decided to do a trial fit of the rear seat, and found that the original hooks were mounted slightly further back than the new ones would have fit without grinding. After tacking, fitting, breaking tacks, retacking, fitting, rinse/lather/repeat, i got the lower seat such that it requires a slight force to lift up (unhook) for removal. I know you are supposed to have to push the seat back then lift, but as it is now i dont really have to push back much if at all. Im concerned about mounting the hook too far back or too far forward, making it difficult to remove the seat in one extreme or it not hooking at all. I also noticed that one hook was originally mounted slightly higher than the other, so only one side of the seat bench will lock down properly. Does anyone have any tips for lining up the seat so i can weld these hook things on in the right location? Also, i havent had the car assembled in over 15 years, will the sound deadener behind the lower rear seat help to keep it forward enough to be locked down? I've been simulating it by shoving welding gloves behind the seat on each side, but not sure how thick that insulation actually is or if the carpet goes up that high. Any tips would be appreciated, thanks!
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Parking Brake Cables » 11/01/2014 6:28 AM |
Incredibly helpful, thank you!!!
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Parking Brake Cables » 10/31/2014 3:25 PM |
Ok thanks
Swap Meet » Global West Tubular Subframe Connectors » 10/30/2014 12:26 PM |
I have a set of global west tubular subframe connectors to sell. I bought them from Mustangs Plus and they've been sitting around in the box. Fit 1967-1973 coupes/fastbacks. Asking $160 + shipping from northern california.
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Parking Brake Cables » 10/30/2014 11:20 AM |
Great, thanks Ron68!
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Parking Brake Cables » 10/30/2014 4:18 AM |
Anyone have an answer to this?
Just removed the bracket and want to relocate it properly, maybe the exact dimensions arent that important but it would be cool to try to get it as close as possible. Thanks.
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Parking Brake Cables » 10/25/2014 1:26 PM |
Thanks for the response, MustangSteve. Removing the bracket and rewelding it in the correct location isn't too big of a deal at this stage.
Would it be possible for someone to take quick measurements - the distance from bracket edge to frame rail, and the distance from that welded crossmember piece between framerails to the bracket edge?
Thanks!
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Parking Brake Cables » 10/25/2014 3:46 AM |
Been looking at random pics around the web ... looks like I may need to cut that bracket off and reweld it in the correct location ... could someone provide me with the dimensions to the bracket from each of the frame rails (front to back rail, and the cross rail) for the '67? Looks like around a 1/2" to each? Would greatly appreciate it.
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Parking Brake Cables » 10/25/2014 2:59 AM |
Hello guys, when I installed a patch floor pan on the passenger's side of my '67 Coupe many moons ago, I didn't have a template/pic of how the parking brake cable bracket was oriented, so I welded it on like so (pic below). I recently saw an original pic where it was rotated a bit from how I did it. Is the way I have it oriented going to cause me problems?
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Windshield posts » 8/17/2014 8:28 PM |
I posted about this around a month back, if you search you should be able to find my post. Basically for my '67 (not screw in from factory) I bought carpet tacks from home depot, 100 for a couple bucks, the head and shaft are pretty much exactly the right size (yeah,yeah ... not intended like that). I shortened a tack, drilled a hole very slightly smaller than the shaft diameter in the cowl cover after grinding down the old one flush, hammered it in, measured the height with a ruler until it was just right, then tack welded them under the dash. This only works where you have access to the backside though, in my case the car is a shell, and only the studs in the cowl cover were messed up. For any others, you can get the screw in kind as jersey joe mentioned.
Someone else also had mentioned using a stud gun to weld them on, also a pretty slick idea if you have access to a stud welder. I think they sell a cheap one at harbor freight.
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Removable Cowl Cover » 8/17/2014 12:01 PM |
Nice job Derek!
Here's what I was thinking: I removed the upper cowl and replaced the cowl areas with patch panels about 13 years ago. I coated the underside of the cover and lower cowl with POR-15, then ran a bead of silicone sealer along the edge similar to how you did. Then I painted over the POR-15 with rattle can paint approx the color I wanted to have the car painted. I used weld-through primer on the flanges, and welded it back on. There are a couple of problems with this that I found out much later:
1) Turns out the silicone while well intended, has crappy adhesion and peels off relatively easily.
2) I lap welded the patches, and I'm not entirely confident in my welding skills back then.
3) The spray can paint doesn't adhere well to the POR-15.
4) The POR-15 doesn't always adhere to the metal well over time, even using that metal-ready spray.
5) I painted the POR-15 right over some of the old paint in the center section of the lower cowl, again, adhesion woes.
6) I layed down plastic bags on the inside of the cowl to prevent debris from getting in when grinding welds and a small piece accidentally got pinched between the cowl flange in an inaccessible area and melted from the welding, and I can't get it out.
Now I've decided I am going to have the car acid dipped at a resto shop in Oregon, and they've said they'll be able to get to the inside most of the cowl with epoxy and a wand, which fixes some of the above problems. But making it somehow removable would give me a lot more peace of mind. That ensures complete coverage when painting and makes it possible to get the crap out of it if it's parked under a tree or something. That way I don't have to worry as much about weather as well. It's probably overkill, but it would be the ultimate cowl solution.
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Removable Cowl Cover » 8/16/2014 7:47 PM |
Now that I'm going back over and improving/redoing quite a bit of my original sheet metal repair work, I started fantasizing about making the cowl cover on my 1967 coupe removable. I'd love to have it be easily painted internally by simple disassembly. Have a few ideas on how I would do it, and it would require some internal bracing of some kind to preserve unibody stiffness. Anybody ever done this successfully, know someone who has, or have any good ideas that might work? I found a guy on the web who did this on his '65, however he strangely didn't post pics of the finished product. My idea was kinda similar to his.
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Has anyone else noticed... » 8/04/2014 6:46 AM |
On every auto restoration show on velocity I have ever seen where a classic mustang was restored, they always replace the rusted out floor pans but never even mention the cowl, the CAUSE of the rusty floorpans. Maybe I'm weird, but that always bugs the crap out of me.
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » problem with welding » 8/04/2014 6:36 AM |
I'm a little late to the party on this one, but thought I'd toss in my 2 cents since I recently posted about this. If you were welding galvanized steel, your welds would be covered in silky white residue and you'd see them floating through the air (don't breathe them in!).
I agree with what a lot of the others have said, I've occassionally had that same experience after cleaning the metal as shiny as it would get, and generally it comes down to the crap between the layers as Pablo said. I'll think I have the metal ready for a nice weld and *pop*, *sputter*, holes are blowing and I'll even get some porosity sometimes even with the right wire feed and gas settings. Also sometimes an unseen gap between layers will cause this. Generally I don't have issues on new metal, it's always the original stuff with god knows what residue left over on the surface.
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Seal over metal etch primer » 8/04/2014 6:22 AM |
Curious, why'd he choose etching primer over epoxy? Seems like that would have been the better option.
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Strange Phenomenon - Silky Welds » 7/28/2014 3:41 AM |
MustangSteve wrote:
Those frame rail sections are real easy to replace in entirety, and can be done so it looks factory with little effort. I would think it would be alot better to just install new ones.
I originally bought a new frame rail, but realized it would be a whole lot more work to install a new one than to just cut the piece out of the original and weld in a patch.
So, my solution: I cut the tack welds, pulled the patch piece back out, ground off all of the zinc to bare steel about half an inch into both sides of the part front and back with an 80 grit sanding disc. On the frame rail I did the same on the outside, and tried to get as much of the zinc from the inside as I could with the angle die grinder.
Voila: finished the job, no more silky residue.
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Strange Phenomenon - Silky Welds » 7/27/2014 5:23 AM |
Hmmm, so after doing some research it seems the silky stuff is because the metal was galvanized ... I had no idea anything on these cars was actually galvanized from the factory. Good thing I always wear a respirator when welding and decided to quit for the night after tack welding rather than welding up the rails. I guess I'll have to cut the tacks and go back and grind as much of the zinc coating of as possible ... tough to do, at least on the backside on the welds (inside the frame rails).
I've read that welding galvanized steel results in brittle welds, 6sal6, as a former welder any input on this? Any idea how I should proceed?
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Strange Phenomenon - Silky Welds » 7/27/2014 4:55 AM |
Has anyone ever experienced the following and know why it's happening?
My front frame rails were pretty thrashed from the previous owner jacking up the car under them. I cut the bottom of the passenger side front frame rail out, hammer/dollied the sides flat again, flattened out the piece I cut out, then filed down the edges so it fit back in again as a patch. Cleaned up the edges on both sides and removed what was left of the red oxide primer with a wire wheel, wiped surfaces down with acetone.
When I started tack welding the piece in place, immediately after welding the welds were covered with what looked like white silk or thick spider webs. It wipes away by hand easily, but while welding I can even see some of it come off and float through the air. Anyone have any idea what this is? The joints look to be bare metal, but it seems like some kind of residue is left on the metal ...
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Body Filler in Compression » 7/24/2014 3:52 PM |
I came across some other posts on other forums after googling the scott drake part where people were discussing issues that they had with the export brace and that area of the cowl. There was talk of elongated cowl flange bolt holes and distortion due to the thinness of the metal at that point, when using a heavy duty export brace. I would still use my idea on the top of the flange and that should stiffen the bearing surface a bit and make it look a lot nicer, but I don't think it's going to prevent flexing TOO significantly under load while driving, at least the way that I'm welding it in. The weak point would still be in the thin part of the flange at the side ends of my piece, at least the way I'm envisioning the brace functioning. To really prevent flexing of that flange, it seems you'd need a perpendicularly welded piece of thicker steel to resist the bending (underneath the flange near the firewall for aesthetic reasons). I'll have to think about it and see what I can come up with and decide if it's worth it.
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