.

how loud do you want it outside?

heres one option

http://www.dynomax.com/mufflers/ultra-flo-stainless-steel-polished-mufflers
 

6sally6 wrote:

I was just "day-dreaming/wool-gathering" and I wondered(dangerous,I know) how many of you folks LIKE beach music?!.............I love it!!!! "What-the-heck-is-beach-music" you may ask?

Here's one of the few videos if Jan and Dean before Jan smashed his head . . That is Leslie Gore in the beginning handing them the microphone . . This id from a concert that was held at the Santa Monica Civic Auditorium and included The Rolling Stones, Chuck Berry, Gerry & the Pacemakers, James Brown, Billy J. Kramer & The Dakotas, Marvin Gaye, The Supremes, Lesley Gore, Smokey Robinson & The Miracles, and The Beach Boys. Admission was around $5.00

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B6dJO8nAoYY


Heres Dick Dale with Stevie Ray Vaughan...What?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWw55XhTehg
 

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Mustang Steve wrote:

Why deviate from proven factory design 1" bore master cylinder?

I rarely if ever do and I posted the reason why in my post but I will try to explain it better . . in just the shop that we had we were doing probably 2 brake jobs a week and many of those included installing after market systems so I am very familiar with what affects what within a braking system and know that in some cases, the factory systems or some of the home installed, pieced together systems can be improved upon much like people installing brake pads and shoes that are more effective than the typical crummy ones available from the local auto stores and which are also more effective than the originals in many cases . . also, a big part of one of my previous jobs was developing and testing brake systems for a major vehicle mfg.
 
I organized his comments to make the chronology of his brakes easier to follow.
 

jhutch wrote:

I'm another Mach 1 owner that's new to this forum.  I'm also having problems with my brakes.  Here's a summary; I'm hoping someone will have some ideas.
 
I have a 69 Mach 1 351W
 
When I first bought this car in 1997, it was a stock 351W.  and the brakes were almost too good.
 
Eventually I needed to replace the booster and decided to also replace the master cylinder at the same time… The brakes worked ok after that and weren't so touchy.
 
I had the engine rebuilt… …to 410… and afterwards the brakes still worked ok, this was last spring.
 
Around about August, I decided to replace the stock Ford steering and slave cylinder mess with a Borgeson gearbox.
 
Afterwards, the brakes have a hard-spot in the pedal.  (I can't definitively say that this occurred right after replacing the steering. 
 
I have a 18 inches of vacuum at the booster, have tested the booster off the car with a vaccuum pump (it works)…

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Mustang Steve wrote:

Why deviate from proven factory design 1" bore master cylinder?

1. His brakes wor

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ok, i dont know how to explain this any better than i already have . . as i mentioned, if the piston is against the clip it is correct . . the piston above is against the clip so it is coirrect . . there is no piston inside the piston . . there is a hole in the ceter of the piston that the rod goes in . . as i mentiined, you must have .015" of clearance between the bottom of that hole and the tip of the rod in the power booster.


ok, I also re-read your original post.
 
your brakes worked worse after you installed the new master and booster combo because the booster had an air leak, there was air in your brake lines or the size of the piston in the master you bought was larger than the previous one.
 
If you want to make the brakes more sensitive and require less force on the pedal to stop, install a bigger booster or a dual diaphragm booster . . if you want them to be less sensitive with slightly more pedal travel, you can install a master with a smaller piston.


 

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heres a diagram for the 67 - 68 from drake but the hoses aren't color coded . . i just gives you an idea of where the vacuum pods are located.

http://averagejoerestoration.com/resources/mustang-wiring-and-vacuum-diagrams/1967-mustang-wiring-and-vacuum-diagrams/67vacac1.jpg

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you master does not look like it is leaking to me . . it looks bone dry . . if it is bone dry, it is not leaking and the fluid in the master is from a previously leaking master.

the rod direction is correct . . the end must easily go in the ,aster and contact the end of the piston.

your piston is exactly where it shoud be . . the piston is against the circlip . . there is simply a hole drilled in it for the rod.

Hakan wrote:

No problems, it's just that I do not like simplified generic statements, specifically when I am included in such a statement myself.

sure no prob . . nothing bad meant by it and that is also what my sedish friends told me so thats all i have to go off of and they ship a lot of cars to sweden . . i know there are many vintage muscle cars there too . . in fact, my friend sold his metallic blue cobra kit car to the king of sweden . .dont remenber if he bought it for himself or a friend since he can obvuiously afford a real one which i think he has anyway.

 

rbtconsultants wrote:

They are rectangular. 3003 look like they could fit. But so do 3017, 3028, 3031 and maybe even 3037. I'd hate to have to pull the headers and measure and then wait for gaskets to get shipped.

I made sure the headers were straight and flush before we installed. I'm not 100% sure yet if the leak is in the manifold gaskets or at the collector. I'm just trying to get prepared.

Thanks

Bob

ok unfortunately if you dont know what you have then i wont reither . . the gaskets below are the smallest hole they make so they will seal but might be too small . . if you can figure out a way to cut graphite you could cut them to size.

http://catalog.remflex.com/FORD_Header_Exhaust_Manifold_Gasket_p/3029.htm

Hakan wrote:

barnett468 wrote:

the swedes like old, huge boat anchor cars . . i have sold a couple to them and have several friends that ship cars to sweden.

Do we? I've only lived in Sweden (together with nine million other Swedes) for 57 years, but maybe you know more about our taste in cars?
 

well . . that has been my personal experience over the last may yesars . . as i said, i have several swedish friends that ship mostly big cars . . the last car i shipped to sweden was a big ol buick boat tail.

[/img]http://automotivemileposts.com/riviera/images/riv1971gsgoldrear.jpg[/img]

 

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 the swedes like old, huge boat anchor cars . . i have sold a couple to them and have several friends that ship cars to sweden.

boomyal wrote:

barnett468 wrote:

......the biggest over seas buyers are holland, france and australia . . .....

I wonder where Hakan's land  and Japan fits in there?
 

the japanese buyers that buy vintage cars seem to prefer big cars like old caddys to muscle cars but of course they like muscle cars also . . they generally will not buy over the internet like some other countries and i see very few japanese buyers at the auctions and big swap meets like pomona etc . . i have sold a few cars there and a friend of mine has sold a ton of vintage motorcycles but japan is lower on the list for vintage muscle car buyers compared to the others i mentioned.

i don't know what hakans land means.

 

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in 1998 when i bought several fastbacks for the movie studios so the could make eleanors out of them for the gone in 60 seconds movie, i paid between $6500.00 and $10,000.00 for every one and i found them all within 25 miles of my house . . they were all V8's and were original sheet metal in decent condition . . cant find anything like it for under $18k today.

the biggest over seas buyers are holland, france and australia . . germany buys some vintage muscle cars but they mainly buy porches and cedes.

 

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not sure how the mustang steve system works so he can help you there but you do not want to squeeze the sides of the support in . . the sides do not need to be parallell . . if you have weld in bearing retainers, you just weld the retainers so they are square with each other.

as far as the shaft not protruding thru far enough, you can cut one or both of the bearing retainers down a little.

if the cotter pin hole is partially visible and there is enough room on the end of the shaft, you can elongate the hole with a dremel bit.

since you have bearing retainers already tacked into place, perhaps some time with a  3 inch cut off wheel might be required to remove the welds from the crookedest one so you can redo it.