ISO 89 mustang Mass air computer for 5 spd non-Cal emissions

Happy Monday everybody,  anyhow upon recent inspection of my 88 GT the trans numbers according to my friend that looked at them turned out to be 4cyl. trans numbers which surprises me because although I've only taken it to the track once I've been pretty hard on it aside from just powerbraking it bc I really don't have to and it's far from stock.

  Anyhow my wonder is how the pilot bearing is able to hold up if it's possibly too big for the input shaft?  I've replaced it twice with the v8 T5 one but not out of necessity.  I haven't noticed any exceesive vibrations or wear marks either.  I didn't know if this is normal or if possibly the input shaft could have been changed.  I just drove it today, I noticed smooth shifts with no vibrations and I stomped on it a little harder out of a slight amount of disappointment.  I've had the car for nearly 9 yrs now and have only had it in a shop to refresh the rear end and I know it has the same trans before and after this visit.

Thanks in advance my fellow Stangers!

Thanks,

I always thought scorpion rockers were a generic brand but they are made in the US and not cheap lol. I plan on using a stock 87 cam. I've got stud mount 1.6s on my 66 289 heads and the whole cost of reworking a set of heads for rockers is something I'd like to avoid. The heads I'm going to use are heavily ported E7 heads with bigger valves already installed as well as different springs and my thoughts were 1.7s would help take advantage of the heads wo too much trouble.

Solid comments guys, I've decided on going with a stronger trans.  I could not imagine not driving the car as hard as I drive my heavily modified 88 gt 5spd.  I don't know the exact condition of my trans, the clutch was completely worn out on the car when I bought it so I was only able to shift into each gear w the engine off. I had to start it in gear w the clutch pushed in and turn the key on and off to load it on the trailer. I knew it was a gamble I just didn't expect to be a 4cyl. tranny.

How about the belt driven accessories? whats the easiest recommended route?

I have a complete65 model set: 3 spd with receipt confirming a complete rebuild with fresh black paint never used.  Also a complete 200 ci. motor rebuilt and bored .040 over with new pistons, custom cam and ported exhaust ports all assembled minus carb and distributor, many receipts, never used.  Knoxville, TN area  500.00

I've come across a 66 gt car with very little good sheet metal and no motor/trans. The car has power steering but no pump. My question is is the the original/non rebuilt drag link/valve body/slave cyl/steering box/steering column worth anything? 

I posted info here for a few days but figured it was wiser just to send it in a message,  let me know if this is something you would rather hang on to then ship,  no problem either way.  Thanks

Good point on the steering wheel,  I bought the wheel 10 yrs ago or better and only took it out of the box twice since then but it may be 15,  I'll have to look.  Nice car

I agree w the foose statement,  a few of those overhaulin cars I'd been disappointed with if I was the owner besides the fact that the cars are done for free on that show.  Personally I love the look of the older T/A style two-tone torque thrust looking wheels w the 15s and I dont feel like that will go out of style but I've got 15s on my 88 gt and I find myself wanting to see more rim in the fender, it makes it look further away from stock.  As been stated its all about preference and what makes you happy just as long as you love cars in general eh.  So what is rife?  I also forgot that i read about the return to center problem, thanks for the input.  I wish I had a 17in wheel to test it with.

Thanks everybody, I searched the forum for ps upgrades and there is too much listed to just easily decide on devoting myself to a certain direction wo an extra grand or plans on modifications that are basically custom while my setup will generally work in theory to me.  Last time I drove it the car had 13s that were tiny but I couldnt tell it was manual unless it was sitting still.  I figured somebody would tell me I'm either crazy,  a bodybuilder or looking to break something lol.  If I can just service my steering box then that will be fine, Id rather concentrate on getting the car assembled if thats the cheaper/faster thing to do.  Love the cars dodgestang,  what type of backspacing and rear-end do you have installed on the green one?  On the looks I like rims in the 15 to 18 sizes,  bigger is better if it will not affect performance in a negative way.  Newer cars have bigger rims to appeal to people more and new age restomods imo sort of mimic whats popular in the modern automotive industry but in a much more appealing way then modern cars.  I'd imagine that w the 1in arning drop properly aligned there would be more rubber planted on the ground so at slower speeds espicially there may be more effort involved to steer.  I saw the roller bearing idler arm but I have already purchased a new idler and dont know what percentage it would improve it for the cost?

Yeah I think I noticed the adjustable plates after I had ordered the stud and plate set.  Mine were slightly twisted from the tightening of the bolts wo holding the plates in place.  Out of the 16 there were 2 that I really didnt like, but no damage.  I'd probably go with full adjustables next time.

I am readjusting my rollers and I intend on following the listed procedure on this site but my question is in general for one point,  is the engine doing the same thing for each revolution or is it every other rev?  Start with #1 cylinder, rotate the engine until the balancer reads TDC on the compression stroke (that is the next TDC rotation AFTER the intake valve opens) . I dont understand how you can have 2 TDCs for a cylinder.  Is it refering to the fact that after compression it is still close to TDC?  You start on the balancer in the guide, but that only works for #1? Right?  So after that I am just looking for the either one of the valves to do the same as whats experienced with #1?  My thoughts are on any one cylinder as soon as either valve begins to open the opposite (closed) valve can accurately be tightened.  Please (anyone adding input) bear with me I'm trying to learn this accurately and thoroughly the first time.  My cam is the crower stage 2   15511 so its not that aggressive.

The holes are perfectly round that the rods come through and if I remember correctly that is a deciding factor in whether or not the heads have premachined guide holes.  They are already machined for them but the piece of mind is nice to know that it is right as it going to get without an expensive rail rocker setup for the heads.