I can tell you 2 major things to keep an eye on with dot 5 brake fluid. First, although the fluid is not hydroscopic (absorbs water from humidity in air like regular brake fluid), water will pool like air bubbles in the fluid, so it is really important to bleed very well initially and everyv6 mos or so.
Secondly, dot 5 has a bad flaw in that once it reaches its boiling point, it becomes compressible. I found this out in our Shelby clone during a race at Laguna seca....very unnerving in the middle of a turn.
But, for street cars that don't do crazy braking it is fine. My friend uses it in all his old cars that have 2 wheel cylinders per wheel, as it keeps them from braking down, as they are very expensive to rebuild or have sleeved. I do recommend Castro dot 3/4 brake fluid as it has a good boiling point and is lma rated so it is good with different types of rubber/seals. For racing, nothing beats the motul 600, but it costs a fortune.

I used to have aflex fan but went to a fan clutch years ago.  Eventually i went to a spal  swirl blade electric fan. made a flat shroud out of some old speed limit signs, with a bunch of 2" holes with a holesaw. Painted it black to match fan. never had a problem living in bay area and later sacramento where it gets over mid 90's - 105 for a good stretch of the summer. a good water pump and a robertshaw/mr gasket thermostat and a good radiator cap make a big difference.  

Since you're stroking the engine you won't need to worry about the 86 flat top piston with the weird valve reliefs in them. I think the trick flows were the only heads that worked well without any mods. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I also recall something about the 86 blocks having a tall lifter bore bosses, so you can use link bar lifters and have to pull heads to remove lifters. Does anyone remember something about that?

For sale 4 wheel disc brake pedal pads from 75-80 lincoln Versailles granada and monarchs. A nice subtle statement when your mustang  four wheel disc brakes. Works on cars that have the wider automatic pedal. I was planning on building a couple of more cars, but work and bills got in the way. I have 3 available. Asking $20 each plus shipping

For sale a set of factory ford disc brake air scoops for granada/monarch/versailles front brakes. Asking $25 for the pair plus shipping. Ford #'s #D8DC-2B-378-AA and D8DC-2B379-AA. These are factory plastic scoops that snap into the back of the backing plate/dust shield  that help direct more air into the vanes of the rotors.

Try the Porterfield r4s pads for granada. Around 75-85 for set, and work very well

It has 3.27 gears and is a dog. I would prefer to upgrade to the 8.8, so we'll see. I just didn't know if anyone had any old ranger or tbird rears lying around. What would you think would be a good compromise ratio for 3.8 auto convertible? Maybe 3.50?

Does anyone out there have any 7.5" rearend parts out there. I now have a 01 6 cyl convertible. I just discovered vibration and pinion leak and that this thing has the 7.5 rear. I can find 8.8 parts up here, but the complete rears are very expensive. So, I was considering adding a traction loc and changing to 3 73 gears with the wimpy 7.5 rear disc rear in the car. Anyone have any tips or garage points, etc? Thanks, mike

My vote is for backyard buddy lifts. 4 post with boxed beams made in USA.

I have a friend who is putting a 427FE in his 68 convertible. If there a motor mount out there that will lower the engine more than others? He is about an inch to 1 1/2" high for the hood. He has a cobra supersnake  replica with functional dual superchargers.  He is planning to do same matching engine setup on mustang. He was looking into customizing hood , but wanted to minimize bulge in hood by lowering engine. I think the total control and Ron Morris mounts only give you 1/2"-1" drop I believe. He may be into fabrication,  just like the rest of car. 600+ hp is a lot to ask of an old car. I had other friends build a 66 gt350 for a dr.,  who had them put in a pumped out 427 tunnel port engine. After the good doctor stabbed it hard, the rear frame mounts where they are welded to the floor pans/back seat footwear area, actually tore out of the bottom of the car and springing the trunk upward some. So any ideas are greatly appreciated.  Should be a neat car when done.

Found it. www.suprang.com