I am going to build a set of wheel cribs to support my 66 fastback and 5.0 Miata when I do under car projects. What do you guys think the minimum elevation should be for a project like a TKO 600 removal or a clutch replacement? If someone could give me an actual number it would be helpful. That way I can purchase some overpriced 2x4's. The stuff is out of sight right now. LOL.-Brad

It appears that the Earthx Batteries are similar and potentially cheaper. Well worth a look.-Brad

I'm running a Lithium battery. I was going to relocate my lead acid battery to the trunk similar to what Shelby did with the 65 GT-350 and like I did on my 68 Cougar. After considering all of the details, the weight of the welding wire, the overall weight of the battery is still there albeit it's in a different spot, and the always existing potential for a catastrophic electrical short. I decided on the lithium battery. It's not for everyone. It's very expensive, but it spins the engine over like a top with a slightly higher voltage to the starter and it allows me to keep the battery in the stock location. The battery is only a little over 6 lbs and it is the size of a garden tractor battery. I had to make some adjustments to the mounting tray to mount the smaller battery box and after having the trunk mount battery explode in my Sunbeam Tiger, I decided to make a smaller battery box and use it there as well. It only takes 5 minutes or so to switch it between the two vehicles and I always bring it inside during the winter. Something to think about, it works for me. But then my cars are toys and not daily drivers.-Brad

TKO-Thanks for the information everything told has value. I went through a drive line angle problem when I first installed the 9" rear but I now believe that I have it pretty well cured. The housing needed to be shimmed up in the front to match the downward angle of the transmission, at least within a degree and a half or so. The TKO600 that is in the car was installed by the previous owner with the aid of his mechanics. It appeared to function fine with the stock 8" rear and it was only when I installed the 9" that I had problems. It would vibrate horribly at 60 mph and above. I started with 2* shims and finally ended up with 6* or so if I remember correctly. I added 2* at a time until I got the smoothest ride. I can now go over 100 without issue. I even added shims to the transmission mount to get it as high up in the tunnel as possible. The 9" housing appeared to have had the spring pads welded such that if set level the opening for the center section would be 90*. When I compared it to the 8" housing that I was removing it seemed that the 8" was pointing upwards about 4* more so I added the shims to get it close. I will be removing the transmission and bell housing to inspect the clutch and flywheel in a couple of weeks. I will also be verifying the squareness and alignment of the bellhousing. Something that I can't be sure the installers did properly. If I find damaged components they will obviously need to be replaced. The car will probably never be raced on a track. It will be a high performance street machine, basically a weekend corner carver and a toy. I've tried to build it such that it would be considered a step above what Carroll would have produced if he didn't have the bean counters at Ford to deal with. The 347 engine dynoed at 430 hp/430 torque, it will red line at 6200 rpm and as mentioned, the transmission is a TKO 600. The rear gear is a 3.89 wavetrac. What clutch and pressure plate would you recommend based on the details given? As always thank

Ladies and Gentlemen- I have a favor to ask. I need a point of reference. If you take your standard transmission Mustang to a level parking lot and, with the engine idling, in first gear, clutch on the floor, and ever so slowly engage the clutch without feeding in more throttle does your clutch engage smoothly or does it chatter like crazy before the car starts to roll? Mine chatters like crazy such that I'm thinking my clutch has oily facings even though it doesn't seem to slip at speed or during upshifts. For comparison, and I realize that it is a completely different animal, my Miata takes off gently with no vibration whatsoever. The Mustang bucks and chatters as I roll off from a stop sign with the proper throttle applied. Just curious what other drivers are experiencing. I searched other forums and found one that was Ford related with a thread related to my question and saw quite a range of responses. Is my situation normal, I don't think so, or does it point to a bad clutch? My car is a 66 FB 347 TKO 600 9" 3.89 gears with only about 9000 miles on the rebuild. Thank you in advance.-Brad
PS-I should add that the clutch actuating mechanism has all been upgraded with roller bearing pivots and heim jointed linkages and adjusted properly with sufficient free play.

Tom,
Just out of curiosity which brand straight bar did you buy from CJ pony parts that was crap. I went ahead and ordered a Dynacorn one to try. I'm hoping you're not going to tell me that it was one of theirs. I checked out the CJ catalog and it appears that they have several available. -Brad

I would like some suggestions on monte carlo bars. Who, in your opinion, has the best quality original appearing one. I have seen some with the top holes punched for carriage bolts, that is not important in my case. I know that Scott Drake makes a reproduction but I have heard different comments as to the quality of some of their stuff.  I am looking to purchase an original straight black bar that is robust enough that Shelby himself would have used it in production. Thank you in advance.-Brad

Tom---The engine is a 347 with Dart Pro 1 heads. Cam is 224/230 @ .050, .556/.513 lift hydraulic. Crower roller rockers. Most suggestions seem to be either 3/4 turn past zero lash or 1/2 turn past zero lash. I believe that the engine builder set them to 1/4 turn if I read his notes correctly. That was 10 years ago, I was attempting to get rid of some perceived valve train noise. I've got them set at 3/4 now and was just wondering what you folks are doing before I button things up. I called Comp Cams this morning and their tech told me that 3/4 turn preload would be fine. 6sally6 uses 1/2 turn. I had already set them to 3/4 when I posted, the confusion for me was after I realized that I had the paper work with the engine and the engine builder set them to 1/4 turn. I haven't fired it up to test yet-Brad

I fully agree with all responses. I happened on to this accessory and wondered if it might work. I hope the picture comes through. Years ago I had a "Exhaust Gas Analyzer" that Sears sold where you would stick a sensor up the tail pipe. It sort of worked but the readings lagged horribly. -Brad

Gary,
The front mounts are stock Ford with the bolts that I had placed through the one on the drivers side backed way off. We had discussed the fact that I had pinned that mount and you suggested that I remove the bolts, I backed them way off figuring that might be enough for the test. It was a lot easier than pulling the mount completely off and removing the bolts. The passenger side mount has not been modified. As for the transmission, I believe it is a stock Ford rubber mount. The crossmember is one that Keisler provided with their "Perfect fit kit" for installation of the TKO-600 transmission into the 66 Mustang. All parts are new or almost new. -Brad

Gary,I am waiting for the machine shop to finish checking my cast pulley and harmonic balancer. I am prepared to replace the balancer based on what I have read regardless of their results. What brand/type are you using on your 347?When I get the engine back together and the car off the stands I will do the road tests and report the findings. I am greatly appreciative of your time and knowledge and am fascinated with the physics behind this. Feel free to go into whatever depth you wish on this issue, it is a great read.-Brad

All very good points. The transmission was raised up as much as it will go because of the belief that the TKO600 is a taller transmission and we are trying to fit it into the space that a toploader would go. The tunnel on the 66 is not as accommodating as the later models. When I installed the 9" rear I noticed the vibration. Now if you made me put my hand on a Bible and swear that it wasn't there with the 8",I can't say 100%.When I purchased the car it came with the 347 and the TKO600 already installed as per Keisler's instructions. I was able to get it up in the tunnel a bit more. After further modification to the Keisler template it is now as far up into the stock tunnel as it can go without hitting the chassis. The transmission itself is a Keisler modified unit that has had some of the top section machined off. I believe that it was called a "Perfect Fit" kit. When I started with this the tailshaft angle was somewhere in the neighborhood of 4* or so. Maybe it isn't as big a concern, I have seen posts where people describe 5 and 6 degree angles and don't complain about vibration. I reasoned that if a person could duplicate the factory angles there shouldn't be a problem. Does anyone know the dimensional differences between the toploader and the TKO600?