I would personally recommend a Stam-Bar -- http://www.suspension.com/stam-bar.htm

Over-the-axle bars hit exhaust pipes, brake lines and chassis -- under-the-axle bars hit all kinds of stuff on the road.

The Stam-Bar mounts across the car, near the top of the hump between the trunk and rear seat, and just forward of the gas tank. It has arms that trail backwatds and mount to brackets bolted to the rear frame rails off the sides of the tank. It should clear everything.

Long, long ago I added a Shelby 1" front bar to my 1966 Coupe, which immediately made a big difference. I remember reading books about suspension that said a Mustang needed a rear bar more than a larger foront bar, so I added the small diameter Stam-Bar to the rear of the car, and again noticed the same level of improvement in cornering that I found with the front bar.
The Stam-Bar they sell now has adjustable clamps to vary the torsion, which my early model (1984 vintage) didn't have.

After 30+ years of having credit cards, I have had this same problem occur three times in the last year and a half.

I have just one card and it is mainly used for business purposes. When something funky happens (like I suddenly try to remove cash from an ATM in Chicago - NOT!), the card company always closes the account, and I never have to worry about any of the illegal charges.

However, when the account is closed, I no longer have use of the card, and I use that for online payment of shipping going out, ordering parts, paying for website services, etc. It really screws up my business when I can't do shipping and ordering online. Then I have to do it the slow way through someone else, which charges me extra for the priviledge. The card company will give me a new number and expiration date, but they can't give you the security code - and you can't even order a pizza online without the security code.

The worst thing about is that all three times I have found out my card was canceled when trying to pay a bill at a restaurant and the waitress declines my card. Absolutely hate that.

When I first looked into this some years ago, before I made the page on my website about this, I had heard and read quite a few times that the Quick Steer Kit did not work on a power steering car - not that it wasn't listed and described as such - but that there was some potential problem with doing it. I never could track down someone who could give me first-hand knowledge about their problem with it, so I went with the complaints I most often heard.

Since the Quick Steer parts move the centerlink forward an inch, I heard that (on some cars) the centerlink would hit the oil pan or something else in that area. There are so many old Mustangs with mismatched motor mounts, pans, linkage, etc out there, I figure this is a possibility on some cars, but is not something they will all experience.

I also heard that the increase of the angle of the power cylinder to the centerlink could cause the swivel stud on the cylinder to bind in certain instances of linkage and suspension travel. I can easily believe this because I have rebuilt hundreds of power cylinders and some definitely have more travel and swing on the stud than others. Some of the repro cylinders have less, and their manner of holding the stud in the cylinder end is scary weak compared to original factory cylinders.

I remember reading on the old MustangSteve forum that the kit wouldn't work with power steering and recall MustangSteve himself saying so. I remember asking him what the problem was, but I either didn't get an answer or get a definitive one. 

I find it odd that I have fooled around with early Mustangs since 1971, worked on many, and talked to thousands of owners over the years - been asked thousands of times about converting to the quicker ratio power steering box to give the Mustang quicker steering - and yet I have only talked to or read about a half-dozen or so that used a Quick Steer kit on a power steering car. 
I wonder why that is? The parts have never been out of production.

Yes, the c