Hi Alex,

I first changed from hydraulic-ps to eps.
Then I added to my eps the manual rack & pinion steering. (From Flaming River) The eps works great with the manual rack & pinion.  Driving with the r&p is very sharp, like steering a modern car.

With my old steering system I was constantly correcting with steering to stay between the white lines on the highway, or on narrow country roads. However after the steering box was replaced with a new one, it was not sharp enough.  The r&p was such a big improvement and driving was more relaxed now. Just keeping the steering wheel in place and no more left, right correcting. It was one of my best investments.

The eps draws between the 5 and 20 amps max.
I do have an airco (maybe using a few times in a year), a simple car radio what isn’t using much amps. When I drive at daylight I always have my front white parking lights and the taillights on, all led. Also the gauges are all leds. All lights on draws about max 2 amps. My headlights are H4 halogen, but using these only when driving in the evening when it’s dark, what is not often.


The installation of the r&p:
http://fyi.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?id=314

The bumpsteer issue:
http://fyi.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?id=2049

The LED conversion:
http://fyi.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?id=7230

On Youtube are several movies about eps.
https://youtu.be/N1fExx26nGY

boomyal wrote:

Looks like you used the clear LED's?  Did you install any in your RallyPac?
 

 
I had 2 Scott Drake  LED kits, all clear. The RallyPac is still having the incandescent bulbs, they were bright enough for me. I installed 4 leds for the gauges and 2 for the turn signal indicators.

After searching the internet for 1157 LED problems I’ve found some info, mainly to do with voltage.

-If only the front or rear lights are replaced with LED’s the old flasher relay still can be used in most cases. When both bulbs are replaced with LED an electronic flasher relay must be used, and in case of hyper flashing.

-Another issue can be the DRL LED will be flickering randomly.  This can be a power issue. A short wiring directly from the LED, via relay, to the battery can solve the problem. A long wire via the light switch on the dashboard can drop the voltage at the end so that it can produce problems for the LED. Incandescent bulbs don’t flicker but will be a little bit less bright, barely visible.

-An alternator what isn’t producing a constant and/or enough voltage.

-A slightly too low voltage.
 

Thanks 6sally6.  I'm member since a few years and my first write up was in 2013. But unfortunately not always time to log in.
Ron

When I drive at day I usually switch on my headlights, H4 halogen. I’m using halogen bulbs with extra brightness, like Philips eXtreme and now Osram nightbreaker. These ‘extra’ H4 bulbs last also less. After 5000 miles I needed to replace my H4. I also read at tests that these ‘ extra’ halogen H4 bulb all had a reduced lifetime. So I was looking for another light source. I start using driving at day with my parklights on. But with sunny weather these incandescent bulb 1157 were not so bright that anyone should notice them. After some searching on the internet I found out that there were extra bright 1157 LED’s, to be used as Daytime Running Lights and turning lights. Not all the 1157 LED’s were bright enough and there are also two types. Turning light type 1 is white off, amber on, white on, amber on, etc. Turning light type 2 is amber on, amber off, amber on, etc.  On the Youtube channel of  Mustang Project  I found a very bright 1157 LED, MP 1157 DC XP. This LED has 4 white LED’s at the front and 12 amber LED’s at the sides. So ordered these LED’s at  Mustang Project.







 I was surprised when the LED’s arrived. They didn’t look the same as the one at their website and YouTube channel. I got something I didn’t ordered. Two LED’s on the front, and eight  at the sides instead of twelve.





So I sent an email about the difference between I ordered and what I received. I didn’t got any response and sent again an email to different departments of  Mustang Project.  This was weeks ago, at October 4th 2016. So after sending several emails, I never ever heard anything from  Mustang Project.




The installed Mustang Project LED 1157-DC-XP were not bright as they should be. Their brightness was actually poor, as seen on

Thanks. That's quite a difference in price. As I look at the seatbeltplus kit, there will be first one small flat washer on the bolt, then the anchor plate and then put this in the factory seat belt anchor plate of the car. No rubber washers at all.

Ron

The firewall had to be knocked out with a hammer, in the shape of the booster. No modifications to the holes. The old brake booster was mountes on brackets, but the dual diaphragm booster was quite thicker,  and mounted on the brackets it will not fit between the firewall and the shocktower. So mounted directly to the firewall.  But it also needed some 'shims' for clearance, so that the booster didn't hit the firewall when the nuts are tightened.

The master cylinder was already upgraded from single to a dual bowl mastercylinder, what came with the SSBC disk brake kit. But that had some leak problems and became rusty, As I searched on internet I found out that a leaking mastercylinder occurs quite often. I read about someone was using  some 3m weather strip adhesive to seal it, and that worked for me also.  For the time being. But good things I read about the billet aluminium mastercylinder. No leaks and it also looks great.







 

TimC wrote:

 
Omg. I've completely forgotten to order a calendar because I was very busy with all kinds of serious things that came up. I now found this picture of my car by a search at Google on my name, because I heard today from an acquaintance who Googled my name and came to Mustang Monthly with picture and info of me and the car.
Is it still possible to order this calendar.
Thanks.

Ron

Ron, that is the 2014 calendar.  If you pm me your address, I'll send you mine.
 

 
Hi Tim, good to know that you have one. I also received from Steve that he probably has a few left. I'll keep your copy in mind. I let you know.
Thanks.

Ron

BillyC wrote:

I'm curious about the on with the patina. Is it real?

The surface looked smooth to me, as it was being wrapped.

MustangSteve wrote:

Lots of Mustang II's there!  NEVER see them over here.  Is it customary in that area for the cars to not have the hoods up?  I thought that was a bit different than here, where ALL the hoods are up.

 

The cars with hoods up are all having shiny engine compartments. Maybe the closed ones are less shiny, or that they are afraid  their engine would be taken away 

As I found out, one cause of the ticking at the speedometer can be is that the innercable is too long compared to the outercable of the speedometer cable. Shorten the inner cable may solve this ticking. Filing in small portions of,  starting with 1/64 or max 1/32 inch, can help. Too short will make it slips.

The right position.
Now at the right the shim turned little left. I noticed already, the nuts at the shocktower connected to the control arm, they were a little loose. Perhaps these nuts were not tighten enough, and trembling of the wheels loosen them more?

I was wondering what purpose has the hole at the top of the shim. Can I
connect together the shims with a small cable tie or something else, so that
the shims stay nice in line. I noticed that, afther tighten the lug of the
upper control arm at the inside at the shocktower, that some shim will turn
a little bit. I'm also afraid that that shim will maybe fell off.








Ron