I didn't know what auction sniper was either, had a guess but here's the explanation from their website
Auction Sniper is an eBay sniper that automates the process of placing your eBay bid in the closing seconds of any eBay bidding auction, dramatically increasing your chance of winning.
- We place your bid seconds before the auction closes
- Automatic - your computer doesn't need to be on
- Track your auctions - notifies you if you are outbid
- Inexpensive - you only pay when you win
Jon

Rubber doesn't last more than 40 yrs. anymore apparently
Looks like you caught all of them just in time!
Jon

Doesn't look like it's going to be easy and with those two big dents in the DS I'd doubt that it's balanced anymore. I'd measure it center of cap to center of cap and either find one on CL or fleabay for <$100 or order one through Speedway, Summit or hit your local DS shop for a price. That one looks like more headache an $ to be balanced than it's worth.

I'd wait and measure once the 8" is in and mounted to get the right length, pinion could end up closer or farther then you've waisted $ on a DS that's too long/short.
Jon

I'll be getting one of these types with the lift latch and soft adjustable latch end, looks closer to period correct to me than plastic:
http://www.seatbeltsplus.com/product/WSCH300.html
http://wescoperformance.stores.yahoo.net/resebe.html
https://www.seatbeltplanet.com/seatbelts-and-accessories/3-pt-retractable-lap-shoulder/m.products/25/view/63

I'll also be sure to get the upper mount extension (8" extension I think) so that the belt ride sits closer to my shoulder for better restraint and to keep the belt from rubbing on my neck.
Jon

If you're on a budget and hwy cruising is #1, I'd go with a plain ole AOD. The Bauman controllers add ~ $600 to the cost of installing a 4R70W. There are plenty of aftermarket upgrades for the mechanical AOD from beefed clutches to valve bodies with adjustable shift points that are still half what a controller costs that can be done later. I'd slap in a working AOD then up the rear gears to 3.50 or > later when you want fun at the strip/street.

There are long and short tail shaft AOD's, looks like from this thread you'd want to locate an '89~'93 AOD from a mustang, check what other models had before picking. AOD's from trucks or different models may have different gear ratios also. One of the differences of a column shift car is that the shift lever pointed down instead of up, you have to drop the pan to reverse the direction of the lever, nothing major.
http://fyi.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?id=719

Jon
 

Is there a reason you can't do the MS cable operated clutch conversion to your current 3sp (I'm guessing) as it only operates the clutch fork? That would give you time to save/research on finding a proper T5. I wouldn't rush to use a less desirable 4cyl. T5 just to get it in, you may regret it later.

TMK all of the starters are 2 bolt so clutch size should match the trans/bellhousing. You'll also have to match the oz. of the flywheel to the harmonic balancer as the later model (T5) have a 50oz. balancer/flywheel.
Jon

Edit: Started thinking about the clutch size issue and I'm guessing you're planning on mating your 6cyl. bellhousing to the T5 which would be why you may have to use a 9" clutch?

I drove my '67 daily for a year and a half before tearing down for a rebuild, even left it at the airport for a week a few times when I traveled. I plan to drive it daily again once running but will have completed a few 'safety' upgrades:
1. added front PDB and upgraded size/quality of rear shoes
2. swapped solid shaft '67 column out for a '68 collapseable
3. headlight relays and better headlights
Edit: remembered another -
4. Highback (foxbody) seats with headrest, both for comfort and added safety.

Next up (should have been first and what I would suggest for your car)
3 pt. retractable seat belts to replace the factory lap belts
Jon