I'm going to preface my response to this thread by saying that I have been in the oil business for 25 years, PCMO's (Passenger Car Motor Oils) is my gig.  I have worked for an oil company in St. Paul for 22 of those years and have also been an Amsoil distributor before then.  I have represented many brands so before you go thinking I'm just another Amsoil dealer looking to sell the snake oil, you're wrong.  It's not for everyone and every application.  I do wholeheartedly believe it is on of the best products in the industry.  Their quality control and R&D is second to none.  In regards to the 5w20 that Ford "recommends" in some of their engines.  This product has been manufactured for FoMoCo by Conoco-Phillips.  I rep'd them for almost 10 years and while I don't think it is the best choice, the product is good.  TKO stated all 5w20 is pure synthetic oil.  No offense but that is not true at all.  If it is API licensed, then it is at a minimum 5w20 synthetic blend and can be a full or pure synthetic if you seek it out.  My recommendation with the lighter weights is to utilize a 0w product.  0 weights are much more sheer stable than 5w or 10w motor oils, meaning that the it will keep the metal surfaces from making contact with each other.  0w's do a great job of that task.  I personally use full synthetic 10w30 in my 393w but my Dad uses 5w20 full synthetic in his 500 hp 347.  Why?  Our motors were built with different tolerances.  He decided to build his tighter than I built mine.  Nothing wrong with that, you just have to use the right motor oil weight to protect it.  Also, synthetic motor oils do NOT cause leaks, they only expose them.  They do a fantastic job of cleaning, therefor, if you have deposits sitting on cracks in seals and gaskets, the oil will clean them off and expose  the leak.  Enough for now.  I could go on forever. 

MS wrote:

Start with new double side foam seals between the body and weatherstrip retainer stainless. Then new rubber seals between window and weatherstrip retainer. Adjust the angle of the glass to get a tight seal when the window is up

I have learned that adding power window regulators helps to keep the glass tight against the seals. Stock regulators tend to loosen up and allow the glass to drop a bit.

All the above has been done!  Nu Relics window motors and I have the windows tipped in on top as far as they will go.  I think I may have found a small issue with the window frame hitting the retainer stainless when the window is up to the top.  May have to adjust the stop on the back end.

Thank you
 

6sally6 wrote:

I just learned to except the wind noise. Even back in the 60's most all the hardtops I rode in had a "whistle".
Noisy exhaust and/or loud music seem to help alot!!
Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.
6sal6

It's all good Sal!  I don't believe one can perfectly seal between the roof rail and the window frame.
 

I went through both sides of my car, adjusting the windows and they look fantastic, they just don't seal well enough to keep the wind noise out yet.  I have seen where you can take some 3M weather strip that comes in strips and place them between the folds along the roof line to force the rubber against the window frame.  Do you guys have any other ideas?  I feel like I tipped the windows in as far as I can.  I know the Drake strips are not very good after seeing the Soft Seal product so maybe I go that route?

50vert wrote:

I think with Standard, you need to use the Blue Streak line, and with Echlin, the HD line.
They both have cheaper versions you shouldn't be using.

Just FYI, Standard does not make a Blue Streak replacement ignition switch nor does Echlin make a HD version.
 

Nice car!!  Love the photos.  I had a 1965 Coupe that color, might not be popular but I really like that green!

What size are your Torque Thrusts?

BobE wrote:

With the problems you have had, I agree a relay is in order.

UPDATE.  Before moving on to the relay I decided to do a test between 2 brands of ignition switches.  Wow was I surprised.  I went through 4 Standard ignition switches, none of them would hold more than 11v on the output terminal/accessory post.  The voltage varied from 10.2 volts to 11 volts.  I bought a Duralast switch from Auto Zone and it holds a steady 12 volts!!  Since I built my car, I have had a total of 5 Standard brand ignition switches in my car.  I have always used Standard Ignition parts because I thought they were of high quality, much like the Echlin line.  I guess not!  What does a guy expect to get for $13.00?
 

The culprit is the ignition switch!  That was my first thought and it ends here!  I've replaced that switch 4 times now but at least now I know the voltage in and out was my way to diagnose.  I have been doing some reading on the web and see others having to go through multiple switches before they found a good one.  I mean, what does one expect for $12.00?  Each time I replaced them, the problem went away-temporarily.  I am thinking a relay may be in order because I am not sure the switch is able to handle the voltage demands I am throwing at it.

bearcat wrote:

check all of your grounds first. With the battery in the trunk bigger the better on the feed wire. And if You have it doing double duty like feeding the alternator to the battery also it can cause issues.
I have my battery in the trunk also, I did what the audio guys call the big 3, big ground big starter Feed and big alternator wire to the battery. with all the modern amenities the 55 year old wiring sometimes can't keep everything fed.

Lots of FAT heavy copper wire in this car!

BobE wrote:

From the MSD Installation Instructions ...
"The Digital 6A and 6AL will operate on any negative ground, 12 volt electrical system with a distributor. The MSD can be used with 16 volt batteries and can withstand a momentary 24 volts in case of jump starts. The Ignition will deliver full voltage with a supply of 9 - 18 volts"

I also suggest checking your grounds.  And check the voltage at the 'power distribution lug' while cranking engine to verify the voltage doesn't drop below 9 volts and also check the voltage at the coil while cranking, and with just the ignition switch in the 'on' position.  If you've eliminated the pink resistor wire this voltage should be in the battery voltage volt range.
If you haven't eliminated the wire from the starter solenoid (which provides full battery voltage to the coil for starting), this voltage will change in the 'start' and the 'run' condition.
FYI - I have the MSD 6AL ignition, my 65 has the original ignition switch, battery is in the front, I eliminated both the resistor wire and the wire from the starter solenoid and am not having any issues ... yet!

Thanks Bob.  So I have narrowed it down to the wire that runs between the power wire at the lug and the switch.  I am dropping a full volt when testing at the lug and again where the power wire connects to the switch.  I can tell you this new MSD Street Fire ignition box will not fire if voltage drops to 11.2 volts.  If I have a fully charged battery at 12.6 volts, the wire at the switch will be 11.6 and it will start.  If I let the battery drain to 11.2, there is no fire in the hole!