MS - get well soon.  

Her is the dash board I will send to you.  It is complete and worked when I removed it.

TKOPerformance wrote:

First, to really do it correctly the car need to be sitting on its tires.  So this isn't a jack stand job.  I built 4' high stands so I could pick cars up with my 2 post lift and then set them on the stands.  Another option is a 4 post lift.

Second, I would budget an entire day or even a whole weekend just to be safe.  You may find things are tweaked out of true and require some time to correct, etc. 
 

I had mine welded at a body & fender shop which had a frame straightening table.  I wanted to make sure everything was flat.  I don't remember the cost, but it was cheap insurance.
 

Toploader wrote:

And here is a close up with the chrome metal spreading apart

Is the frame bent or twisted?


 

TremendousWand wrote:

RPM, aka Bearing Bob wrote:

TremendousWand wrote:

I replaced the oil pan years ago because it was dented from someone obviously using it as a lift point.  However I replaced it with a stock model.  The crossmember by Zray fits stock oil pan.  The center lift point is awsome.  Makes getting the car up a real breeze.  I was considering redoing the entire front end but I feel better about it now.

 
How does changing the engine crossmember make you feel better about considering redoing the entire front end?

I didn't think the engine corssmember was significant to the cars stability and steering especially after having installed a monte carlo bar and a complete subframe kit.  I assumed the root cause was the suspension and worn steering. In retrospect, the front of the subframes can pretty much twist freely without the lower crossmember. 

I still want to do a rack and pinion swap but I'm much more comfortable driving it now. 

Remember - A numberr  of R&P makers replace the front crossmember with the rack.  It cannot be used for jacking.
 

Sounds great!  Isn't it wonderful to have open roads like that to test drive your car?

RPM, aka Bearing Bob wrote:

lowercasesteve wrote:

I'm getting ready to install a Dakota Digital gauge package in my '66.  The original will be available.  Everything works.  It will not be available for a month or two while the job gets done.

Let me know if you want it.  It is in good shape.
 

 
Steve, you going to be able to make it to the Bash this year in your home state? Sure would be nice to meet you.

Don't know.  I haven't thought much about it.  Bakersfield is about 5 hours from here, and I'm not much for driving long distances anymore.  I'm 83 with all attendant physical maladies.
 

TKOPerformance wrote:

Mochaman wrote:

I looked at converting my British Mini over to the E-Scam battery systems. 20K + and it wouldn't even get me a round trip to work. Weight of the car increased so much I would have to beef up the suspension. This technology isn't ready. Keep trying to get better. 
 

It'll NEVER be ready.  The more I've researched it the more I've come to conclusion that there are problems with EVs which are simply insurmountable.  The biggest issue, as you noted, is weight.  Sure, they can improve the battery technology and get more power or possibly longer range.  Unfortunately everything they have tried to do that thus far has made the batteries run much hotter and the chemistry more unstable.  Batteries are simply never going to replace Diesel fuel, and if the goal is to reduce pollution from IC engines it turns it into a non starter.  They also ignore the pollution created when the batteries are produced (mining, smelting, etc.), or when the power is produced.  No, the more I've researched it the more I come to the conclusion that EV's have been foisted on a well meaning, but gullible segment of our population by a government doing favors for CEOs who are making billions off of this colossal failure. 

The future isn't batteries; the future is hydrogen.  Toyota and other smart manufacturers are already transitioning.  My prediction is that hydrogen is going to slowly creep into the EV market place in the form of hydrogen/battery hybrids.  Eventually hydrogen will just subsume batteries because once the infrastructure is in place there will be no reason for vehicles to carry the extra weight of a battery and have the added complexity of two systems of power, or its cost. 

One thing that needs to be added to this discussion is that EV's reduce pollution in the air and add it in the ground.  We do not talk about that.  Which is worse?  Polluted air or polluted ground.  Remember oil production is also a great po

Herb55 wrote:

Thank you all
MS- I was just looking at that website, but didn't know anyone who has done business with them!  Thanx for the referral.
I have been buying parts off CJ, but unless you get a sale, they can be a bit pricy.
I'm upgrading from 14" wheels to 15". I have a nice set of 15X6 rims.
What's the largest tire I can use? I'll do the front end over next year This year I want to do the brakes and drive it a bit and see how it runs.
I'll see if I can figure out how to post pics here.
TY

225-60's work very well.
 

How about "Not Very Often".

Let's see - my 40, 51 55 60 66 13 15 all have the ignition switch in the same place.  - all on the lower right.  the 40 has the starter switch on the left.  - the early ones had the ignition in the middle of the dash- don't remember where the starter switch was.

Great use of Photoshop.  The guy taught painting on PBS for years until he died about 15 years ago.

Thanks, that helps me think a little differently.

boss347convertible wrote:

Get these flare wrenches at Harbor freight. Grind the 1 inch flare wrench on the one side to fit (you will not have to remove much material) or remove the reservoir bolt and take the reservoir off. Use one of the other sizes on the hose with a breaker bar and a pipe extension. I am not a fan of Harbor freight, but when I am going to modify tools, that is where I go.



the new photo

I don't have any of those, but there is a harbor freight close by.