NPD has them for $33.00 ea.  Why not just buy them rather than spending days researching?  You could have had them by now and installed.

Could the MC piston be bad?  they have a separate piston for each bowl.  If one is broken or missing, you could experience what you are.

I have the TCP R&P and I thought i got the KRC pump with it when I installed it several years ago.  I decided to stiffen the steering last year with a new fluid regulator.  I purchased one from KRC and it came in a couple of days.  My body no longer functions the way I would like, so I have found a good hotrodder shop here in town to do the work I used to do.  They tried to install the regulator, but it did not fit.  They ended up using one from GM.  It works fine.  The steering stiffness is right where I want it.  I guess TCP sent me a GM pump.  It's been so long since it was installed, I can't find my documentation any more.  The regulator was cheap, so I'm not going to pursue TCP.  I am also not going to hold them in the esteem I used to.

I know this does not help, but I needed to vent.

John Ha wrote:

MS wrote:

Lesson learned! Since I have never installed a single pot master cylinder on a Mustang, I should keep my comments pertaining to the ones I have direct experience with. Thanks, John, for setting me straight.

You've taught me so much ... I'm honored to return a teeny bit of the favor :-)

Thanks, for your info.  I must have had something strange because mine only had one output.
 

John Ha wrote:

MS wrote:

What about original disc/drum brakes on early Mustangs? The same port on the master cylinder fed both the discs and the drums.

Not true.  There was a unique master cylinder for the disc/drum cars that had 2 outlets on the forward side of the master cylinder.  One port (the lower one, IIRC) went to the disc brakes, the other (comes straight out from the front of the master cylinder) went to the rear drums

Not my experience.  I bought mine with the handling package.  It came with disk/drum brakes.  It's master cylinder had only one outlet.  Not two.  I know because I had to replace it.  Only one outlet.
 

i've seen the shock tower project a bunch of years ago.  One of its uses was to allow standard headers when going to a 351 W/C.   Big blocks were now better fitable, too.

I started with a C-code/3-speed.  2.79 open rear.  worked fine thru a couple of NY winters. Chains helped a lot.

Somewhere around 1970 I moved to a 3.25.  Still open diff.  I loved it but it reduced my mpg by about 3mpg.  Telling when driving upwards of 30,000/yr.

Sometime later I returned to a 2.80 open (don't remember when).

1989 In went the 351w w/Toploader.  My mechanic had a brand new 3.00 open vs the worn out 2.80. Had to put it in.  Has worked just fine with all the low-end power that I need.  I no longer play drag racer.  Give me power to get up to speed when entering a freeway and passing someone when safe.  I prefer mid range acceleration.

Around 2000 I installed a wide ratio T5.  For my liking first is too low.  Shifting comes too soon.  I would prefer the 2.95 first gear.  Even with the 3.00 rear the car has plenty of pickup.  I can lay 2nd gear rubber.

The 351w has a 2.18-2.24 duration, 0.512L retro roller cam, ported iron heads, and FITEC FI. The cam is said to have a 1500-5000 rpm range.

To date I have never had a need for limited slip diffs.  In Calif it does not rain enough for me to want one.  

And, yes, I have done some 2-tracking with it with ease.

 

MS... I have a couple of mounted tires in my garage.  Want to come pick them up?  Free.(:-)

 

Rufus68 wrote:

Here's the engine

Rufus:  I love the photo with your car description below it.  looks like that is the engine in your car!  Only problem I see with it is the shock towers may be too close together for it to fit.
 

Replace the spring bushings.  It's not difficult, and a machine shop can do it in a trice.  It should take your new bushings with no trouble.

CraigMBA wrote:

Greg B wrote:

Then a former classmate who has a couple of classic cars told me. "They wait for you." Not really 100% sure what that meant, but I do know when I went into my shop for the first time in about three years, it was just as I left it, waiting for me.

It was a couple months short of a decade.  I actually lost the car, it was in the garage at my old house.  When I went back it wasn't there. Somebody moved it from there to my parents farm shop behind their house and nobody told me. Shortly after my divorce finalized the farm got sold out and the family has been, uh, estranged since then.

My dad has age related dementia and that was a big part of why I got divorced.  I couldn't be alone with him for more than a decade because he'd physically fight with me.  But my dad is in a memory care facility now and I'm the only one who has been in it for many years.  So I guess that's good.  Most of the equipment is still there but it's also not ready for prime time.  

Been going to the shop one day a week for a month and, um, "cleaning".  All of my car was on that cart and somehow there's parts everywhere in that shop.  So I've been cleaning trying to find the headliner bows so I can get ready to put the brand new 15 year old window glass in.  After I extract all the seed from the mice.  After I get the rest of the archeological dig finished.  Figure it'll take me another month to get the shop ship shape and the parts sorted.

Not sure how many of you suffer from HSS (Horizontal Surface Syndrome) but I counted 17 flat surfaces stacked high wide and handsome of just....junk. But now I can get it cleaned up and keep it that way.

I guess it's like eating an elephant.  Start at one end, go to the other, be slow.  Be persistant and just keep chipping away.

It's nice to be back around, yall.  I'll see you in Bakersfield!

HSS?  I know about that.  My wife has it!
 

BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA wrote:

lowercasesteve wrote:

BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA wrote:

Does it rub at all?
What brakes do you have front and rear?
What wheels are those where did you get them?
 

Brakes are manual
12.19" Wilwoods in front
11" SSBC rears - same as Mustang SVO's and Thunderbirds of that era.
The car still rubs on sharp right turns, but not badly enough to do anything about.  I can live with it.

Wheels are NOS style steel from a Stockton Wheel, but you can get them from any wheel maker.

 

  I wanna see more pictures of them with more light on them

Try this.



Sorry,  The wheels are smoothies.  No one makes an oem steel wheel with a Ford bolt pattern.  I know.  I have looked.  What I wanted was a wheel that takes a dog dish hub cap.