No I have a square plastic tank. It had a red cap originally but that melted off a while back with one of my prior overflows, possibly even before I replaced the radiator in about 2006. It was on the car when I inherited it from the original owner in 2000, so I assumed they were just normal.

I did think it was concerning that I was reading different voltages each time I moved the throttle plate.
Was planning to pull codes and troubleshoot this week after I had the car aligned, but I was told by the shop they didn’t have enough bolt length to align the car, so now I need to look into that issue instead.
Thx for the suggestions.

I have checked the few vacuum lines and connections I have, but didn’t find any leaks. Iab, egr, and tps are all new within the last 5000 miles. Hegos we’re new with my install so there is probably 10000 miles or so.
I did check the tps last night and noticed that the voltage dropped a little each time the throttle  opened and closed. I adjusted it slightly so the starting voltage is a little higher, .95 instead of .75.
I found a large checklist for 5.0 mustang surging idles so I’ll try working through that list soon.

I’m fighting a high idle from my computer.
One of my sensor may be bad or I may have a stick idle bypass, but it may also be my ac compressor and the computer trying to adjust.
Anybody have a 5.0, 5spd, and a/c installed? I have factory condenser (‘66) and a modern compressor with a single wire connection.
Car was running fine idling correctly about 750-800ish. Then I got my AC leak fixed and drove twice with the air on and now I’m suffering a high idle of between 1500 and 2100.
Should the wire from the computer tap into the wire coming out of my condenser that runs to the compressor or should it connect somewhere else to recognize AC compressor load?
It may not be my compressor, that’s just the latest change to the car.

I installed a blaupunkt single din cd player in my glove box about 20 years ago.  Made a little wood frame so hold it up. The stereo has its own "Thumber" remote that is strapped to my steering wheel.
Have some Alpine tweeters sitting in the corners of my dash, Kicker 6.5's in the kick fram, 6x9's in the rear deck and some really old kicker 8"s in a box in the trunk.
I recently added a blue tooth adapter so I can play my phone via blue tooth instead of via a cord. 
I left the old am radio in the dash just for looks, but it wasn't connected to the antenna anymore. If i connect it to the antenna it works fine.
 

Just providing an update.
I adjusted the screw and if set just perfectly the horn sounds some when activated.
I believe I need to go the relay route and update the wiring to truly solve the problem.
Thx for the suggestions.

Missouri has annual license fees (or you can buy two years at a time) and personal property tax base on the value of the vehicle.
Tags are $25 / year or so plus the safety inspection and personal property was $700 or so last year for our rogue, odyssey, wrangler, and mustang.

I'm ordering gaskets and weather stripping while I'm at it. Do you guys think I should go ahead and replace the heater core since I have to pull all of that out anyway? I don't have a leak, but seems like a good idea unless you guys think my existing one is probably fine. Our car has been in a garage since it was new.
Assuming I do replace, should I get aluminum or get the more expensive copper style? I'm more interested in longevity than heat output, since we don't drive much in the winter.

Nos681 wrote:

I used the following sites to install factory efi into my car:
My donor was a 92 mustang Gt.


http://www.veryuseful.com/

https://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/300/397/397-M-12071-A50.pdf

http://www.midnightdsigns.com/james/

https://web.archive.org/web/20110430180836/http://fordfuelinjection.com/

 

I used these same sites although not the jegs site. The fordfuelinjections page was pretty comprehensive.

I've always thought it would be cool to get rid of the key and convert the cigarette lighter to a push button for the starter.
Haven't figured out how to switch accessories and Run on yet without making it super easy for someone to drive off w/o my permission yet.

I installed a Tanks Inc tank w/ Russel lines I purchased through them and have a few smell as well.  Haven't figured out where mine is coming from yet, nor had I figured out how to find it.
Will have to check my lines to see if they are ptfe or not.
 

Thanks for the opinions guys.  I had checked out the ride height page in the past, but it's been a while.  I was concerned about going too low with the reverse eye, but it sounds like that's the right pick for me and I wasn't sure if I should go 5 leaf, since I have the battery in the trunk and the kids will ride in the back seat fairly often.

Now that my car is finally operational, I plan to look into getting the AC working soon, since summer temps are nearly here.
Haven't done much research yet, so I figured I'd see what recommendations there are.
My '66 was an original ac car w/ the 200.  When I switched to the 5.0, I figured I'd get a more modern compressor that runs on R134 instead of R12.  I have all of the original components except the york compressor.  Do I simply need to find a compressor off one of the engine donor cars, or is it more complex and I need to look into classic air or something along those lines?

Thanks for your thoughts...